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General Voltage Stabilizer Puzzle Thread

  #41  
Old 06-22-2007, 08:41 PM
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I'm not debating the increased fuel economy because I am not sure how this would help.

I am just debating that capacitors would be doing their job and are not useless in this application.

I have heard that these stabilizers do decrease the shudder when using accessories in older cars.
 
  #42  
Old 06-22-2007, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by justinfox View Post
Wow, such heated debate over such a small thing.

On old cars (say an AE86) it pays to improve the stock grounding wires (as they're usually very rusty and not doing a great job anymore). Remember that most (if not all) cars come with a grounding wire from factory and all you're doing is simply beefing it up. It really can't hurt so it's a worthy mod in my eyes.

Now about these newer fancy gizmos that go a little further than just a simple ground wire kit... I say they do work as I've seen a local magazine do a dyno test which achieved gains.

On a tiny little 1.3 car they got hardly any improvement (half a kw/1hp gain) but on a Nissan Skyline GT-R they saw quite a bit more. Interesting huh?

I feel that all those people saying that they felt a difference by putting one on are surely just fooling themselves... but in the end of the day it doesn't hurt to try one.
Logic and rationality without ego, temper, or emotion- thank you!
 

Last edited by manxman; 06-22-2007 at 08:56 PM.
  #43  
Old 06-28-2007, 11:55 PM
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My 2 cents...

I recently took the voltage stabilizer out of my element and put it in the Fit. Dont remember the brand off hand but i wanted to see first hand with my scangauge if the voltage improved or at least did not drop.

Guess what...it DIDN'T. Didn't notice significant increases in MPG like many other people have posted here either. Nothing more than can be attributed to driving style or better gas.

Even bought the T1R ignition stabilizer (you know the one they say will improve performance, fuel economy, etc...) but it doesn't even connect to the ignition in any way. Just plugs into the ACC fuse INSIDE the car. And guess what... not change either.

Not that i expected anything but just wanted to prove it. Maybe if i had a high end aftermarket stereo system it might help filter out noise or something but on the Fit it doesn't improve HP or fuel consumption that i have seen. Doesn't even improve the voltage. Still fluctuates the same as before.

Save your money for that Jackson Racing SC.
 
  #44  
Old 06-30-2007, 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by leonine View Post
Even bought the T1R ignition stabilizer (you know the one they say will improve performance, fuel economy, etc...) but it doesn't even connect to the ignition in any way. Just plugs into the ACC fuse INSIDE the car. And guess what... not change either.

Not that i expected anything but just wanted to prove it. Maybe if i had a high end aftermarket stereo system it might help filter out noise or something but on the Fit it doesn't improve HP or fuel consumption that i have seen. Doesn't even improve the voltage. Still fluctuates the same as before.

Save your money for that Jackson Racing SC.
Actually, re: the T1R not being connected to the ignition system, that's not really true. The Fit has a direct ignition system, meaning the ECU controls the firing of the plugs directly. By having the T1R booster attached where it is, it's sharing essentially the same electrical system that the ECU is, so it is in effect connected to the ignition.

Also re: the T1R, I can't say anything about the results you got from having it connected, but so far every tank I've had since it's been installed has been on average consistently higher in mpg than from before. At first I thought it may just be a fluke, but it's been consistently so up to now and nothing has changed other than adding the booster -- same gas station, same driving style, etc. And, I'm not one to buy into hype usually, but the results are there in my case.
 
  #45  
Old 06-30-2007, 01:33 AM
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Something else I came across that may be of interest and help to maybe explain how an ignition booster like the T1R could have an effect on mpg, power, etc.

This is a quick translation I did of an entry from the mod page of a fairly prominent JDM Fit owner (RINN-san) who does lots of electrical/electronic DIY projects for his Fit and other cars he's had. Over the years, he's probably done more to his Fit than anyone on this board or even other JDM owners ever have I'd say. Anyway, he designed his own Ignition Booster and gives some info about it on his page. No circuit diagrams or details of what's exactly inside, but in his case it doesn't seem to be just a capacitor from his description. From what I know, his background is IT networking, but from looking at his various projects and blog entries it's obvious he's got some fair level of electronics background as well (like he built his own custom ECU and CVT controller).

Here's the original page: Acceleration - Rinn's home page

Here's his mod page if you want to take a look: Acceleration - Rinn's home page

Here's the entry from his page:

"DI Booster & DIB2
(Direct Ignition Booster)

More torque, more power.

I've made a tuning part to improve the efficiency of the Fit's ignition system, which is a Direct Ignition-type system. Unlike traditional ignition systems, with Direct Ignition the ECU controls the firing of the plugs directly by itself. With this, although there's an advantage in having the ECU be able to control the firing of the plugs at will, there is a disadvantage in that noise is easily generated from the firing of the plugs, which at high-revs, when the interval between firings becomes shorter, starts to become a burden on the system. This noise that's "hovering" around in the system starts to cause subsequent firings of the plugs on it's own, in other words misfires, which lead to a deficiency in the ability to generate power. [the actual word he uses translates as 'heat power', so I'm assuming he's referring to creating a more inefficiently burning fuel/air mixture than is optimal, not HP specifically].

This is where the DI Booster comes in. If you can remove all at once the noise that's present in the Fit's Direct Ignition system, then you could create an environment where the ignition pulse sent from the ECU wouldn't be defeated by that noise. In the case of the DI Booster, unlike the recently popular capacitor systems, it doesn't affect the entire pulse signal, but only the noise, thus only the necessary pulse signal itself gets through. In other words, a clean environment is created that allows the ECU to work at 100% of it's capacity.

Additionally, aside from the above benefit, there are a few other benefits as well. By reducing/eliminating the plug noise in the the system, you also reduce/eliminate the effects of the noise on the ECU itself and the other surrounding electronics. Furthermore, since it's not just boosting[overboosting] the voltage of the Direct Ignition system itself and instead only using the normal signal output strength as always, undue wear etc. is not put on any of the related parts.

Unlike Last Station or NOBLESSE's DIS boosters, which are only sold for the Fit, this DI Booster can be used on any other Direct Ignition vehicle that is on the market. Note however, that while the DI Booster does affect ignition efficiency over the entire rpm range, it's optimized mainly for high rpm's, so the effects at low rpm's are fairly minor. With this in mind however, I also did a reworking of it with low-mid torque increases in mind, hence the DIB2 was born. In the case of the DIB2, there are only gains below 3000rpm, so if you were to run it in conjunction with the original DI Booster, together you should expect gains across the board, or in other words a torquey low-mid range with a powerful high end as well that you certainly can feel.
"
 

Last edited by Chikubi; 06-30-2007 at 01:40 AM.
  #46  
Old 07-01-2007, 02:39 AM
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Voltage Stabilizer

Voltage Stabilizer (V.S) is one of the modifications a fit

freak member install in their car,not all of them,maybe few,maybe a lot.There was a group buy on VS3 vs on this forum but only one so far has posted his photos & observations ,we also have some

members who bought the T1R vs but i havent seen one posted their results & observations,maybe their busy and have no time,maybe their dissapointed and it did'nt meet their expectations,maybe their scared that fellow fit freak members will mock them or humiliate them.Voltage Stabilizer has also different names,some members call it SNAKE OIL,some members call it BUST MOD or BOGUS

MOD,some members think its a WASTE of MONEY,some members think it's a WORTHLESS PIECE OF S##IT,some members think HONDA FIT does'nt need it because of the ALTERNATOR,some members say its only a BLING to make your engine bay look good ,some members even think that your an [email protected] if you install

one on your car.On the optimistic side we also have some members who claimed it improved their fuel economy,their FIT was more responsive,good for you guys!,if a fit freak member does a modification to his car or her car, that is their business,i dont bash them or try to mock them implying that their modification is

pathetic.Proof or no proof,dyno or no dyno i made a decision that i will install one on my car,first i believe NOBODY in this forum does EQUAL or EXCEED the electrical knowledge that a HONDA japanese engineer posses,in short NOBODY in this forum really knows the ELECTRICAL DESIGN of a HONDA FIT,second i believe that NOT ALL

VOLTAGE STABILIZER were ENGINEERED THE SAME, everybody knows THERES A CAPACITOR INSIDE THE VOLTAGE STABILIZER but are they all design the same way? Does ALL voltage stabilizer have the same SCHEMATIC DIAGRAM?Does ALL voltage stabilizer have the SAME CAPACITANCE?,are all cars have the same ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ?those are few questions that i asked myself before i made

my decision.If a DOCTOR tells me that a PILL named VIAGRA would'nt work on me(means my penis will not erect) shall i believe the DOCTOR?Of course NOT!!,i need to see some BLOOD TEST,EKG TEST,etc.etc. If an ELECTRICIAN claimed that a VOLTAGE STABILIZER is not EFECTIVE because of his knowledge in ELECTRICAL THEORY, will you believe him?of course NOT!!!,Everybody knows that

ELECTRICIANS are not ELECTRICAL ENGINEER,some of them might have an Associate Degree but not a Bachelors Degree which make them LIMITED to MATH, they di'dnt take higher MATH courses like DIFFERENTIAL EQUATIONS or FINITE MATH,For ME in order to prove that a VOLTAGE STABILIZER is not effective on a HONDA FIT there has to be a MATHEMATICAL EQUATION & SCIENTIFIC TESTING

CONDUCTED by ELECTRICAL ENGINEER,not just an ELECTRICIAN,but my guess is MAJORITY of FIT FREAK MEMBERS wont be interested,those are just my 2 cents.Since i havent seen any member who has done any measurement at ALL & posted their numbers i volunteer to be the first one,i promised to one of the members that i will post my result & observations whether it's good or bad,however i'm not an AUTO ELECTRICIAN,i'm not an ELECTRICAL ENGINEER,i dont have a MASTERS DEGREE in

ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING,nor a PhD in PHYSICS . I'm just an ORDINARY JOE who eats 3 times a day,(i have a BACHELORS DEGREE IN NURSING,a REGISTERED NURSE by the way) who likes to mess with my FIT,i have 3 cars but none of them has a VOLTAGE STABILIZER,i have a LEXUS GX 470,NISSAN FRONTIER,and my BELOVED HONDA FIT,the FIT will be the first to have one.Ok before we start i would like the FIT FREAK MEMBERS to know that i dont have the right tools(OSCILOSCOPE) and the skills,i'm just REALLY curious what will HAPPEN if i put a VOLTAGE STABILIZER in my FIT?

1.First i make sure that my new battery is FULLY CHARGED(FIG.1) 2.I did not ADD or SUBTRACT any GROUNDING WIRES,i just CHANGED them to a much THICKER WIRE (FIG.2) its a 4 AWG(AWG stands for AMERICAN WIRE GAUGE for members who does'nt know) it's a 1,862 strand count braided wire,i also cut a PIECE OF COPPER BAR and bolt it on to the original location of the OEM grounding wire.(FIG.3),SILVER is the best conductor of ELECTRICITY,next is

COPPER,if you have a SILVER BAR laying around your garage and you have the same class as JEAN PAUL GETTY or SAM WALTON i suggest you use it,as for young generations who dont know who the heck is JEAN PAUL GETTY he was ONE OF THE EARLY FEW BILLIONAIRES,and for SAM WALTON he was the FOUNDER OF WALMART,WALMART is a store here in Southern California where FIT FREAK MEMBERS like me tries to buy MOBIL 1 5-W20 only to find out that it is OUT OF STOCK,so i go to COSTCO now because WALMART

sucks.3.I check the resistance of my grounding wires (FIG.4)4.I put everything back and install my VOLTAGE STABILIZER ,Red goes to POSITIVE,Blue goes to NEGATIVE,verry easy,even a 5 year old kid can do this.(FIG.5).Now that i finished on intallation i went on to do some MEASUREMENT to see if my voltage stabilizer will stabilize,but before i go there i would like my fellow fit freak members to know

what is the JOB of the voltage stabilizer if we install it on our FIT?My answer is the JOB of voltage stabilizer is to DELIVER CONSTANT CLEAN & SMOOTH BATTERY VOLTAGE to the FI'TS ELECTRICAL LOAD,since ELECTRICITY is not my line of work this answer is GENERIC,but at least my definition did not come from WIKIPEDIA ,maybe there are thousand members who can clearly DEFINE it,that is my personal answer ,if my answer is WRONG pardon my IGNORANCE.Now my first MEASUREMENT is i start the engine with the VOLTAGE STABILIZER CONNECTED WITHOUT LOAD(radio off,air-con off,mp3 off,day time running lights off,headlights off) i got 14.4 VOLTS on my SCANGAUGE (FIG.6) i got 14.4 VOLTS on

my VOLTAGE STABILIZER VOLTMETER,and 14.4O VOLTS on my DIGITAL VOLTMETER(FIG.7)you can see that the VOLTAGE STABILIZER BUILT IN VOLTMETER is accurate,ALL of them has 14.4 VOLTS.My second MEASUREMENT was VOLTAGE STABILIZER CONNECTED WITH LOADS(radio is on,air-con is on(FIG.8),headlights are on(FIG.9)NO CHANGE,ALL ARE STILL 14.4 VOLTS,Does it mean that the VOLTAGE STABILIZER is WORKING PROPERLY? my answer is YES,Let see what will happen if i DISCONNECT THE VOLTAGE

STABILIZER from the battery(FIG.10) the VOLTAGE GRADUALLY DROPPED DOWN UP TO 14.0 VOLTS[SCANGAUGE] (FIG 11) & the digital voltmeter shows 14.19 but after a while it synchronized with the SCANGAUGE and it shows 14.0 VOLTS,i also noticed that every time the FAN kicks in the VOLTAGE FLUCTUATES between 13.59 volts thru 13.89 volts,but with the VOLTAGE STABILIZER CONNECTED there's NO VOLTAGE FLUCTUATION THAT OCCUR,those are the NUMBERS that i got and i THINK my SCANGAUGE 2,my DIGITAL MULTIMETER ,and the BUILT IN VOLTMETER INSIDE THE VOLTAGE

STABILIZER were ALL working properly.The following are my personal experience with the VOLTAGE STABILIZER,I am NOT claiming that i gain HORSEPOWER.I am NOT claiming that i gain any TORQUE.I am not claiming that my FUEL ECONOMY IMPROVED,I am CLAIMING that THROTTLE RESPONSE improved,I am CLAIMING that I'm not LOSING POWER when i TURN ON MY AIR-CONDITION,for me this is the BIGGEST ASSET of VOLTAGE STABILIZER, i can set my AIR-CON FULL BLAST and STILL NOT LOSING POWER,with the SUMMER here in Southern California i need AIR CON but if i lived in ANTARTICA

i will not buy a VOLTAGE STABILIZER,I am claiming that my HEADLIGHTS are SLIGHTLY BRIGHTER,I am claiming that my FIT'S SOUND SYSTEM got more punch,this will give extra benefit to other FIT FREAK MEMBERS who waited HALF A CENTURY for their SOSCHE KIT and upgrade their stereo system ,so far those are the things that i observed and i'm still monitoring any changes.If theres an INTELLIGENT FIT FREAK MEMBER that will ASK me, WHY DOES HONDA DONT PUT A VOLTAGE STABILIZER IN OUR FIT ? My answer is I AM NOT THE RIGHT PERSON TO ASK,the RIGHT person to ask is

MR.KOICHI HONDA,PRESIDENT & CEO ,AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR COMPANY,1919 TORRANCE BOULEVARD,TORRANCE CALIFORNIA U.S.A 90501, but before we ask HONDA about VOLTAGE STABILIZER ,DONT YOU THINK HONDA SHOULD PUT A LOCKING GAS CAP BEFORE VOLTAGE STABILIZER?HOW ABOUT A WATER TEMPERATURE GAUGE? , we bought that CAR even WITHOUT A STUPID DEAD PEDAL ,Do you guys think HONDA will put a voltage stabilizer? I DONT THINK SO!! the truth is its all about the PROFIT,Installing a VOLTAGE STABILIZER on a HONDA FIT will not INCREASED their PROFIT JUST MY 2 CENTS.The LAST but not the

LEAST,I AM NOT ENCOURAGING OTHER FIT FREAK MEMBERS TO BUY A VOLTAGE STABILIZER,I AM NOT DISCOURAGING EITHER,I HOPE THIS WILL SHED SOME LIGHT TO GIVE SOME MEMBERS A LITTLE INFORMATION ON WHAT TO EXPECT IF YOU ARE PLANNING TO INSTALL A VOLTAGE STABILIZER BECAUSE IF YOU INSTALL A QUALITY VOLTAGE STABILIZER ON YOUR FIT YOU WILL SEE THAT A

VOLTAGE STABILIZER IS NOT A PIECE OF GARBAGE.GOOD LUCK, /SCIENCE IS NOT 100 % PERFECT ,STEPHEN HAWKING
 

Last edited by boyetssilverfit; 07-01-2007 at 04:26 PM.
  #47  
Old 07-01-2007, 02:45 AM
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Voltage Stabilizer

FIG.1 BATTERY CHARGING
 
  #48  
Old 07-01-2007, 02:48 AM
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Voltage Stabilizer

FIG.2 THICKER GROUNDING WIRE
 
  #49  
Old 07-01-2007, 02:51 AM
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Voltage Stabilizer

FIG.3 COPPER BAR INSTALLED
 
  #50  
Old 07-01-2007, 02:54 AM
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Voltage Stabilizer

FIG.4 GROUNDING WIRE RESISTANCE CHECK
 
  #51  
Old 07-01-2007, 02:57 AM
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Voltage Stabilizer

FIG.5 FINAL INSTALLATION
 
  #52  
Old 07-01-2007, 03:00 AM
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Voltage Stabilizer

FIG.6 VOLTAGE STABILIZER CONNECTED NO LOAD
 
  #53  
Old 07-01-2007, 03:03 AM
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Voltage Stabilizer

FIG.7 VOLTAGE STABILIZER WITH LOAD
 
  #54  
Old 07-01-2007, 03:06 AM
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Voltage Stabilizer

FIG.8 RADIO ON,AIR CON ON ,VOLTAGE STABILIZER DISCONNECTED
 

Last edited by boyetssilverfit; 07-01-2007 at 03:18 AM.
  #55  
Old 07-01-2007, 03:09 AM
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Voltage Stabilizer

FIG.9 HEADLIGHTS ON VOLTAGE STABILIZER DISCONNECTED
 
  #56  
Old 07-01-2007, 03:12 AM
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Voltage Stabilizer

FIG.10 VOLTAGE STABILIZER DISCONNECTED
 
  #57  
Old 07-01-2007, 03:14 AM
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Voltage Stabilizer

FIG.11 VOLTAGE DROPPED
 
  #58  
Old 07-01-2007, 05:01 AM
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Holy cow that was hard to read!


I appreciate your work on this--it is interesting that it did have an effect, especially when the fan kicked on.

Where did you get that VS? Is it the one from the group buy? It looks like it has black tape or something on it covering the name.

Thanks for this posting and write-up!
 
  #59  
Old 07-01-2007, 08:31 AM
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nice post but very difficult to read.

Paragraphs!
 
  #60  
Old 07-01-2007, 04:27 PM
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I'd like to preface this by saying that I have bachelor's degrees in electrical engineering and computer engineering, and I have experience designing, building, and testing DC power supplies and board-level analog and digital circuits. I'd like to fill in some blanks and resolve some misconceptions regarding "voltage stabilizers".

A typical car battery may hold on the order of 50 amp-hours, or 180,000 coulombs of charge. At 12.6 volts, that's equivalent to around a whopping 14,000 farads. By comparison, let's be really optimistic and say that a "voltage stabilizer" contains 100,000 microfarads (say, fifty 2000 uF electrolytic caps), or 0.1 farads. Putting that in parallel with your battery increases its capacitance by 0.0007%. My point is that compared to the relatively huge capacity of your battery, the capacitance of a "voltage stabilizer" is practically nothing.

Various sources I've found online put the internal resistance of a typical car battery on the order of 0.01 ohms. In other words, car battery will only drop about a volt during a brief 100 amp drain. A typical alternator can provide up to 70 amps at full load, such as while powering accessories and recharging the battery. Alternator noise depends on engine speed, but is typically in the audible range, in the hundreds or thousands of hertz. Head- and taillights together draw around 10 amps of pure DC, and your audio system might draw as much as a couple dozen amps, again with frequencies in the audio range.

With such high amperage, relatively low frequency currents coming out of the alternator, into the accessories, and in or out of the battery, the "voltage stabilizer" doesn't have a chance of noticeably impacting the car's electrical system voltage. It's orders of magnitude too small.

An important question that nobody seems to ask is, what specific problem are "voltage stabilizers" meant to solve? Noisy power to the ECU? To the audio system? If these were actual problems, a much better solution would involve one or more LC circuits (pi filters, as mentioned earlier) and/or an active semiconductor voltage regulator in series with the supplies to these components. A relatively microscopic capacitor in parallel with the entire electrical system won't cut it. Chances are good that the ECU already has a semiconductor-regulated supply, but I haven't dissected mine, so I can't say for certain. However, both devices were designed to be powered by an alternator, and both have their own internal power filtering.

In summary, my expert opinion: it's a waste of money. Any benefit one might experience will be due to the placebo effect or simple experimental variation. This I can say without owning or testing a "voltage stabilizer", as the principles by which it is supposed to work are well understood, and have been known and studied for over 200 years.
 

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