Considering the lengthy list of go-fast parts, I think the Fit could be made to go fast, but it'd take a good amount of money.

(in no particular order)
cat-delete
headers
cat-back exhaust
turbo (or forgo that and go all motor, pistons, cams, port'n'polish, maybe bore to 1.6-1.7L if there's room)
ECU management system
CF hood, trunk, (doors?)
lightweight wheels
sticky tires
short-shifter
and probably one of the most important things (or so I believe) when making something like the L15a1 go fast: modified gear ratios


That's my $0.02

 

That's the thing I don't know if it would be better to just turbo the L15 motor or get a K20 and turbo charge it?

 

I'm very torn on this decision myself and I'm leaning more towards the JRSC kit myself for two main reasons:

1. Does not affect the weight balance of the car.
2. No need to cut into the front chassi parts wich would in turn lower the front end's rigidity wich would in turn have to be reinforced by adding metal plates to reinforce the cuts, further adding more weight to the front of the car.

I wouldn't call the JRSC necesarily cheaper though as I would factor a couple things into the JRSC vs K20 swap when it comes to cost.

A K20A Type R changeover with hasport mounts, axles, labor, etc. will run about $8k - $10k depending on how you source the parts and the labor thats needed for the project. Keep in mind this would in turn give you about 180whp, solid engine mounts, lighter flywheel, type r clutch and an LSD.

The 10lb JRSC kit will be about $4.5k with an intercooler, add to that stiffened engine mounts, AST Across flywheel/clutch/lsd kit, oil cooler, radiator, high preasure coolant hosing, lowered trigger point thermoswitch and thermostat, high preassure radiator cap, etc. to make the L15 more reliable at that level of modification. And you're probably pretty much at the same cost as the K20 swap and on par with its performance, with the added benefit of the better weight balance with the L15.

Of course I'm thinking all this from an auto crossing point of view, if all you are really interested in is fast straight line speed then the K20 and its endless power options is the way to go, but I'm looking for a balance.


Then again the other side of me has wet dreams of a fully built NA K20 with ITBs, a TODA stroker kit, etc., reving to 9k and putting out 300hp.

 

300 hp is possible with built motor and 15-20psi, but getting the power to the ground is the real problem light car and small tires makes for some nice Smokey burn outs and new tires every month

 

So factor in suspension upgrades so that as much power as possible can get to the ground. Hmm, tires, rims, coilovers, camber adjusters and chassis bracing if you like the twisties, and the list goes on...

 

Yeah but imagine those 300HP NA, with a light flighwheel and ITB's. INSTANT POWER!!

 

you're counting 10k for a k swap? shouldnt be even NEARLY that much. well i suppose if you do a straight k20a swap....as the engine costs around 4 grand, but what i was thinking is a k24 bottom and k20 top, which is around 1500, add in the extra stuff and do the labor yourself and you'll have a setup for around the same price as the jrsc...or at least in my head. plus the coil over kits they're comin out with for the swap should help to alleviate the problem of the extra front end weight. anyways the point is that a k swap can be made for around the same price....im just not sure which would be a better choice since historically honda has been able to make a huge amount of power out of their smaller engines

 

Yes, the changeover for a K20A is $4k - $5k, RSX shifter box, engine mounts, axles, ecu work to permit a throttle cable, wiring harness (wich at the moment you must either make it yourself or pay someone to do it), PROPERLY cutting and reinforcing the front end of the car, and all that labor. I myself don't have the the skill nor the tools needed to do a proper engine swap so I, as well as the majority here, would have to pay their way though an engine swap.

I'd love a K20 swap but at this point the only two benefits it provides are:

1. Perfect reliability in stock form and the same amount of power as a 10lb JRSC. In fact I'm willing to bet the power band on the L15 at 10lbs of boost will have more torque earlier than a stock K20A and probably more torque through the entire power band. Hmm I'm gonna go search for dyno charts

2. Endless potential of power out of the K20 if you really want to get crazy.

3. Bragging rights of the K20 swap.

I'm not currently interested in either of those three benefits.

My current plans stand on modifying my L15 in the most intelligent ans safe way possible and if it breaks or more like, when it breaks, I'll probably be driving something else for a daily driver at wich point I'd invest in a K20 Swap, stripped interiors, roll cage, etc. and turn my Fit into a track whore.

 

First off the L is not a new engine...its just new to us. You can't compare it to the B series either because it is closer to what the D series was. Some one feel free to correct me but the L is just like the D SOHC. Where the B and K are both DOHC. I own a DC5 running a K series. Just looking at the two motors they are worlds apart. If you want a fast Fit using the L motor then get a SC. If you are looking for 300 hp you will never get that from an L. In fact it will take allot of work just to get the K series that fast. Honestly you bought the wrong car if you wanted something fast you should have just got a new civic si they are not that much more then the FIT's

 

Just waiting on "gettinafit" to come back from his vacation in Hawaii so he can chime in.

He's in the process of doing the swap on his own.

 

An '07 Si retails at about $21,500 w/o options. A well-equipped Fit Sport can be got at under $17,000. For some people, that $4,500 difference can make all the difference in the world when they are car shopping.

 

As much as I would like an Si, I bought my Fit to be a family car for now that I can have fun with. Eventually it will be my car and I'll have my way with it, but right now the Fit is worlds ahead in usefulness for me.

 

Very true but for the OP its going to cost more than 4,500 to get the FIT as he said 300 hp lol .. even 200 HP going to cost more than 4.500 in mods.

 

all you need is money

 

Yup, NOBLESSE's Fit has well over $10-12,000 into it and it's still under 200hp, though it's a very durable engine now.

 

the fits are good the way they are, if your into more of a throttle response u should look for a short ram intake and possibly some headers and catback exhaust system...but doing a completely different engine implant would mess up the weight distribution to the car...its not worth dropping in a k20a3 in this car, b/c your front end cannot hold that much support, the chassis for this car was not meant for a heavy engine like the k, and if your wanting to boost the car with supercharger, thats a whole different story

 

Exactly my point. No need in a huge horsepower engine in a Fit to enjoy it. Unless what you're looking for is hardcore straight line speed for the strip or street racing then the K20 is the ticket to take.

But as for me and a few other here who like to track their cars the L15 is the way to go. Spoon and Noblesse fits are a prime example of how good these cars can be with less than 150hp and NA, Spoon comes in at 125hp at the flywheel and the Noblesse about 150.

Then again you can invest in a K20 and make it handle well by reinforcing the front end of the car (J's Racing inner fender braces, spot welding and reinforcing the cuts that need to be made up front), and mount a set of fully adjustable coilovers and then its just a matter of getting the car corner weighted and properly aligned and you can get a K20 Fit to handle like God on cocaine.

But its obvious how expensive that route will be with the needed chassi work.

 

i still say that just getting a k20/k24 franken-engine shouldnt cost as much to swap in as even a SC or a k20 swap....with the proper junkyard hunting that is. in any case my answer for why i didnt get a SI or RSX or anything else is....its not a fit =) to steal from the transformers movie "you dont pick the car, the car picks you" ....just so happens the car that picked me needs a lil boost in power =P besides building the engine can be done in pieces over the winter, and accumulating stronger parts, and bracing the car as well as suspension can be done over time. so im not too worried about all that

 

If thats the case then you should be able to pull some pretty good power out of the L series from experience of some civic's in the UK. The majority of turbo'd ones over here use the D16 as it's a lot stronger than the B's and can handle a lot more boost. I've seen turbo'd D16's at shows pushin over 350 with no worries!

 

i really hate seeing 400+hp FWD cars... i dunno if this is always the case but all those online videos with civic hatchbacks... they just have insane lag, then when turbo kicks in it just redlines like hell cause the power cant come down to the ground.. then the guy shifts and the whole thing starts over.. I suppose with drag radials or something it would be alot better but i still HATE the lag... I really like superchargers over turbo since power output is linear and i believe it doesn't heat up like crazy like turbos..
And with a more predictable power output, you can just regulate the throttle to counter all the wheelspin. Oh yes, and although i know superchargers make less power than those crazy turbo kits, i think the benefits of a supercharger outweigh those of a turbo. esp. since FWD cars have limited traction since the car shifts back when you accelerate... you'd want to control your power as much as possible and get it all down

Correct me if im wrong folks.. Never ridden in any boosted car so i wouldn't know much... im getting my theory from... VIDEO GAMES :O...