Fit Engine Modifications, Motor Swaps, ECU Tuning Reference Library for Engine Modifications, Swaps and Tuning

GD3 M/T rear engine mount replacement

  #1  
Old 12-15-2008, 04:29 PM
Member
5 Year Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 225
GD3 M/T rear engine mount replacement

Has anybody replaced the rear engine mount for their M/T fit?

I can loosen the engine mount, but it doesn't come out because the mounting bracket is on. I can't seem to get any tools to fit and take the mounting bracket off. So...I can get the engine mount off, but not out.

Any tips on how to remove this engine mount?

I've seen the DIY's for A/T fits, which have completely different rear engine mounting brackets, so I am specifically looking for M/T.
 
  #2  
Old 12-15-2008, 04:34 PM
YeeFit's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 1,110
Hmmmm.... maybe you can ask Innovative? I finally have my 75A set shipped out to me today from Innovative... it only took them 2 months to make mine!
 
  #3  
Old 12-15-2008, 04:46 PM
Member
5 Year Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 225
Originally Posted by YeeFit View Post
Hmmmm.... maybe you can ask Innovative? I finally have my 75A set shipped out to me today from Innovative... it only took them 2 months to make mine!
be sure to post a DIY of that...i need to see how to replace the rear mount.
 
  #4  
Old 12-15-2008, 04:53 PM
YeeFit's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 1,110
I probably won't be seeing my mounts til after xmas and I won't be doing the install til the spring when the snow goes away. I plan on doing my mounts at the same time that I do my clutch.
 
  #5  
Old 12-17-2008, 07:21 AM
FELIXY69's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: RICHMOND BC CANADA
Posts: 2,792
i am sorta feeling mine needs replacing too......i can feel the engine move from revving..
 
  #6  
Old 12-21-2008, 04:07 PM
Member
5 Year Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 225
:(

so....today I bought some more tools and tried again.

I removed all the bolts for the engine mount and mount bracket. But the thing is so snug in there that I can't maneuver the thing to come out. With the steering rack on top, the subframe on the bottom, some bracket in the back restricting left/right/backwards movement, and the engine in front, the mount still won't come out.

Anybody here replaced the M/T rear engine mount before?? it's getting very frustrating.

hmm i was looking around the parts catalog and service manual, i will try to remove a steering gearbox 'stay'. looks like a support that i can move out of the way.
 

Last edited by sl0wp0k3; 12-21-2008 at 04:42 PM.
  #7  
Old 12-30-2008, 12:58 AM
Member
5 Year Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 225
Well...i loosened the steering gearbox stay, and it just seems that the steering rack is too close and the mount still won't come out...if the steering rack was 2mm higher or so, i would have enough clearance, but nope...

Anybody?!? please? this is getting very frustrating trying to replace this mount.
 
  #8  
Old 01-02-2009, 10:22 PM
Member
5 Year Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 225
Has anybody removed the front subframe before?
 
  #9  
Old 01-07-2009, 09:32 PM
AJ PwR Jr.'s Avatar
Former Vendor
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Japan
Posts: 563
I have replaced mine with the ALEX mount. You don't need to un-do the subframe in order to do it. Here's some info and I hope that will help.

1- undo the 17 head bolt which attach the mount to the rear bracket

2- use a ply bar, ply between the mount and the bracket so you have anough clearance to undo the bolts 3 x 14mm for the bracket which attach to the tranny

3- remove the bracket then use a rachet with flex head + 14mm socket to remove the bolts on the engine mount bushing. After that you can easily take out the mount and to replace it with a new one.

4- that's it.

If you are working on the car with a hoist, I guess this will be quite hard to do.

Cheers,
Ben
 
  #10  
Old 01-07-2009, 09:36 PM
kelsodeez's Avatar
UNBANABLE
5 Year Member
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Af-BAN-istan
Posts: 4,548
i havent even attempted to try and put the third/rear engine mount in. it looks like it will either be way too tight of a space to work in or that the subframe needs to come out to make the job easier. so, instead of making the job difficult, i am going to make it efficient. i am going to put the third mount in when i take off my transmission to replace the clutch and flywheel. kill two birds with one stone.
 
  #11  
Old 01-07-2009, 09:46 PM
Member
5 Year Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 225
Originally Posted by AJ PwR Jr. View Post
I have replaced mine with the ALEX mount. You don't need to un-do the subframe in order to do it. Here's some info and I hope that will help.

1- undo the 17 head bolt which attach the mount to the rear bracket

2- use a ply bar, ply between the mount and the bracket so you have anough clearance to undo the bolts 3 x 14mm for the bracket which attach to the tranny

3- remove the bracket then use a rachet with flex head + 14mm socket to remove the bolts on the engine mount bushing. After that you can easily take out the mount and to replace it with a new one.

4- that's it.

If you are working on the car with a hoist, I guess this will be quite hard to do.

Cheers,
Ben
How does the mounting bracket come off? through the top? there's not enough space because there's a lip at the bottom...
 
  #12  
Old 01-08-2009, 06:21 PM
AJ PwR Jr.'s Avatar
Former Vendor
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Japan
Posts: 563
Originally Posted by kelsodeez View Post
ed to try and put the third/rear engine mount in. it looks like it will either be way too tight of a space to work in or that the subframe needs to come out to make the job easier. so, instead of making the job difficult, i am going to make it efficient. i am going to put the third mount in when i take off my transmission to replace the clutch and flywheel. kill two birds with one stone.
When you take off your tranny, you will need to remove the mount bracket anyways so in your case, it is not necessary to remove the subframe. Trust me, that will be lot more work if you try to take the subframe off.

How does the mounting bracket come off? through the top? there's not enough space because there's a lip at the bottom...
Yes, the bracket come out from the top and there's enough room when you use the ply bar to tilt the engine a little.

I forgot to mention, you will need to remove the bolts off the header where it connects to the stock cat. After that, the engine can tilt freely.
 
  #13  
Old 12-04-2016, 10:29 AM
3K9
3K9 is offline
New Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 4
Bumping old thread.

I am currently having trouble replacing the rear engine mount.





I am not able to apply enough force using rachet + uni-joint, quite awkward, or a using a spanner, to undo the two upper bolts.

Looks like it need to remove the cat, to free up more space?


I have trolly jack, jack stands, engine crane...

Thanks
 
Attached Thumbnails GD3 M/T rear engine mount replacement-80-saa2e95a18223800000kaad13_18e5a9f88982fbb9ced78189fff0ccfdeaf64d70.png  
  #14  
Old 02-23-2017, 10:42 AM
fittenmittens's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Charlotte
Posts: 42
It's a huge pain. I've done it once with a engine hoist and once with jacks.

I put the car on two jackstands, unbolt tranny mount and all engine mounts, put a floor jack with a piece of wood under it under the oil pain. first thing I undo is the main bolt through the mount. Then use a 17mm? socket on a 24" breaker bar to break loose the two rear bolts. There is a flimsy bracket that partially covers them with I think 3 14mm bolts "protecting" the steering rack that can be removed. After the two rear bolts and the main through bolt are removed, you can lower the engine slightly to get at the two lower 17mm "rear bracket" bolts, then jackt it up until you can get the third one from the top. Install is reverse, with more suffering.
 
  #15  
Old 03-02-2017, 09:35 PM
devmail's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 891
Thanks for the tips, a friend and I are attempting this tomorrow evening...
 
  #16  
Old 03-02-2017, 09:44 PM
fittenmittens's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Charlotte
Posts: 42
Yeah honestly if you guys are having a tough time with it I can PM you my # to text or chat about it as you work through. I've had it in and out 4x now in one month and yes it sucked and took a lot of time every time but it worked sooo.
 
  #17  
Old 02-02-2019, 03:03 PM
New Member
5 Year Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 14
This was excellent and helpful advice! Removing the passenger driveshaft hoop provides more room than you'd think, and it helps.

We removed the main mount bolt, then the three vertical bolts (one easily from the bottom, two with difficulty working from above behind the motor.

We used a pry bar to move the engine forward and got the horizontal bolts into trans out. Box wrench for bottom two, 3/8 breakover for the top.

This was the second hardest rear mount I've done. The ones on some Toyota models are actually a bit worse, or maybe I just didn't figure out the tricks.



Originally Posted by fittenmittens View Post
It's a huge pain. I've done it once with a engine hoist and once with jacks.

I put the car on two jackstands, unbolt tranny mount and all engine mounts, put a floor jack with a piece of wood under it under the oil pain. first thing I undo is the main bolt through the mount. Then use a 17mm? socket on a 24" breaker bar to break loose the two rear bolts. There is a flimsy bracket that partially covers them with I think 3 14mm bolts "protecting" the steering rack that can be removed. After the two rear bolts and the main through bolt are removed, you can lower the engine slightly to get at the two lower 17mm "rear bracket" bolts, then jackt it up until you can get the third one from the top. Install is reverse, with more suffering.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bargainguy
3rd Generation GK Specific Fit I.C.E. Sub-Forum
9
10-16-2017 05:10 PM
88self
Fit DIY: Repair & Maintenance
0
06-13-2017 11:18 AM
gettinafit
Fit Engine Modifications, Motor Swaps, ECU Tuning
552
12-27-2016 03:00 AM
leonine
Fit Engine Modifications, Motor Swaps, ECU Tuning
64
12-04-2016 10:45 AM
doctor J
1st Generation (GD 01-08)
1
10-25-2016 09:59 PM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: GD3 M/T rear engine mount replacement


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.