the changing conditions (did u dyno the car on different days?....even if u dyno'ed the car back to back with just removing the silencer the car temps would be different) and with the margin of error inherint in all measuring systems, 1 hp CANNOT be measured.
even if u did 3 dyno pulls with NO MODS whatsoever the spread would be greater than 1 hp

 

should be an interesting install!! jk
u should probably get a pro

 

Yeah i already found an installer. I'm planning to pick up the Apexi Neo next week when I get back from my las vegas trade show. I'm a bit skeptical now based on sugarphreak's dyno results, even with the expensive piggyback and tune. But im still curious what I can get out of an AF tune.

 

Here is a link to the NEW MANIFOLD.. AFTER WE TESTED IT FOR 6 MONTHS.. NO CEL's and Good Power..

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...-manifold.html

 

Here's what we did to get rid of the LOW EGR FLOW CEL Light.

Lemme try and explain what we did..
The reason why the ECU was seeing LOW EGR flow was because it needed to flow back into the cylinder head..

Look at the This picture of the USDM HONDA FIT.
EGR gases come from the EGR Actuator ALONG the GROOVE on the Cylinder head.



The EGR Gases flow through the BACK side of the manifold.



From the backside to the front side of the manifold, and gets re-distributed to the 4 intake ports and back into the engine..



The reason for the CEL with the old design is The EGR gases were not being distributed and the flow wasnt flowing at the rate it was supposed to be flowing at. Now if you look at the picture of the Cylinder head there are 4 wedges that allow EGR flow to flow back into the intake ports..



What we have done is Bypass all the flowing through the manifold etc.. etc.. ( PICTURED in pictures#1-3 ) is directly let the EGR gases flow from the EGR Actuator and evenly distribute the EGR Gases back to the intake ports..


This is basically doing the same thing that the OEM manifold was doing, which is true by looking at an OEM USDM Intake Manifold Gasket..

Flow comes from the middle and then needs to go to the 4 intake ports..


I hope i have explained it so everyone can understand what we did..

 

So now I'm assuming that the CEL issues have all been resolved??
If so my next question is will this work with my UK L13a engine that is "drive by wire" I believe as the throttle is cable controlled?
How much to send this to the UK (cash waiting) also want 4-2-1 header and cat-delete (to connect to spoon n1 b-pipe and back box) with CEL fix?

Thanks

Andrew

This car is really popular in the UK so can we have some parts distibuted to the UK please....

 

CEL issues resolved.. Cable throttle is controlled by a cable.. Drive by wire is controlled by electrical wires.. We have both versions..
We have sold many for customers in Asia who own the HONDA JAZZ which is the 1.3L engine with 8 sparnk plugs.. they have no problems with the install.. PM for more details..

 

Well basically I must have the cable throttle as I can see and use the throttle when the bonnet(hood) is open the model is a 2002 GD1 Honda jazz/fit L13a engine with the 8 spark plugs. Basically I want one and want to buy one I've looked around and the price is around $450 is there a deal to be done if I order more weapon R products i.e. the header and decat with CEL thingy?

Cheers Andrew

e-mail direct at dancingbradley@hotmail.com as I haven't quite got the knack of PM's in this forum

 

Hi i need help, if i purchase weapon - R manifold can i use it in my honda Fit GD3 L15A engine with cable throtlle type? (JDM type) because i look in picture some member installed in Honda Fit GD maybe (USDM type) use throtlle by wire system.

 

I just installed the new version of the Weapon-R Manifold for my car... Here is my review, pics will come later!

Fitment is good but i would have preferred to be able to bolt my wiring harness brackets back on... Also, it needed 4 nuts to be able to bolt the throttle body back on as 1 of the stock ''Brackets'' could'nt be installed due to clearance issues with the brace Weapon-R added on the throttle flange! The MAP sensor vacuum port is just a little bit too large! It's not leaking but still, it can be better! Plus, where is the freaking PCV valve nipple...? Simply inexistant and i won't put it on the brake booster vacuum line as oil fumes into brake booster bladder = Big NO NO!!

So, for the product to be perfect it would need...

-A throttle body brace that will work with the factory mounting hardware!
-A Vacuum port for the PCV system (Catch can mandatory on that intake if you don't want a pool of oil in the intake! Could be sold as a combo!?)
-A design that will allow all factory mounting hardware to be used.. Wiring harnesses, rear manifold mounting point near throttle body, throttle body mounting brackets.. In the meantime i will need Ugly Zip Ties to conserve decent NVH and reliability...


Ohh and, it's making power!! It's making more power in the upper revs but bottom end torque suffered some (Negligible!) probably due to the monstrously large runners... I had to remove fuel anywere except in the upper revs (5500+) on my FIC to conserve safe AFR!! I expected more but probably that it's the stock ''Catalyst and B-Pipe!'' that are holding power back and not the intake system!

Finally, my impressions are that it's a good product but it lacks some refinements... My advice would be to design the product on a car in the market where you intend to sell the product because it makes me wonder if it was designed for another car and then adapted on a Fit!! It's probably better then the first version but it still need some work on it so it can be perfect!!

Marko!!