yeah we need a real tuner to clear this up. the FI guys need to run richer but im really curious for the na guys.

 

question for someone who has AEM wideband ,when you let off throttle does the sweeping led go to red with no AFR numbers?

 

There was some dialog before between Ben, Ray and a few other members that has some good information in it.

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/aj-r...questions.html


I am hoping to have some dyno-tuning done late next month, hopefully that sheds some more light on what ideal rates are. I picked up an LM2 with logging capabilities, it will be nice to see a graph of what is going on and compare directly to the dyno.

 

when you are in gear, and you arent pushing the throttle, the injectors shut off.

 

i just want to sum up my experiences...

i had an intake on my car...removed it and put it back to stock. wihtout resetting my battery. installed a test pipe and a/f gauge.
i was getting an a/f reading of 14.9 at idle and WOT. however when driving i would get all the wya up to 18.0 at partial throttle.

i resest my battery and stablized a 14.9 at idle and WOT, and 14.9-15.9 at partial throttle.

i installed my emanage blue and zeroed everything out...running no map, but just have it installed to make sure i have all my settings correct. i am at 14.9 at idle and WOT. i read 14.9-15.9 at partial throttle. it sometimes flashes as lean as 16.5 when between shifts. this is after a battery reset. i am chaulking the 16+ afr to the slowness of the MAF signal going through the emanage and causign a slight lean condition.

when turboed i will be aiming for a 14.9 idle and 12.0 - 12.5 WOT.

anyone see anything wrong with this??

 

the injectors may shut off when in gear off the throttle...ive read that many places. but my gauge never doesnt have a reading. it should always have soemthing. it will go to"---" if its too high or low of a reading to be on the display.

partial throttle i am getting an average of 15.5. as soon as i let off the throttle while still in gear, it drops to 14.9. if i clutch in and coast in neutral, i get a afr of 15.5-16.0 as soon as i clutch in and then it goes back down to 14.9.

the only time i ever had my gauge not read anything is when it went above 18.0 (it was a "---" reading)....but i hadnt reset my battery since i removed my aftermarket intake and went back to stock.

disconnect the negative on the battery for a few seconds and then let the computer relearn itself.

 

Ok, a little correction, that article (part of) is from Modified Magazine (August 04 edition!) and written by Martin Musial, tuner at AMS!!


...When cruising down the street we would like to aim for an A\F ratio of 14.7:1 - 15:1 to keep the milleage up and our environment clean. But what happens when you hammer down the throttle and hit 15PSI of boost? If you ran that same A\F ratio chances are you'd wind-up on the back of a tow truck with a melted piston or valve!Heavy engine loads need a richer A\F mixture. Naturally aspirated engines can run 12.5:1 - 13.5:1 A\F ratio under full power. Turbo, supercharged or heavily dosed nitrous engines will run from 11.5:1 - 12.5:1 A\F ratio. An A\F ratio that is richer than 14.7:1 slows combustion and the extra fuel helps cool the intake charge. Obviously for safety sake it's better to stay on the rich side than the lean side.


Marko!!

 

No... As long as you dont add (should PULL timing) ion WOT.
Even in low boost 12.0-12.5 AFR's are a little lean with natural timing.

If you dont pull any timing Id suggest a little richer. 11.5 ish maybe?

 

Im going to say this real quick. Ive been running a testpipe and a header for a while on my car. A testpipe for a least a year and a half.

I have no real proof if its caused from the testpipe or my hard break in. (Yes, I did one)
My Fit burns oil. When I mean she burns oil the last time I did an oil change she was a quart low. 4500miles between oil changes.
If it sits for a while at idle and its hot out, sometimes tapping the gas or taking off in first she'll puff blue smoke.... Oil.

Also driving behind me or even sitting at traffic lights you can smell the oil constantly burning in the exhaust fumes.

Im pretty sure its from the hard break in. The smell didnt show up till after a header install. First my WeaponR RH and Im now running a DC with a testpipe.

My guess is its my valve guide seals. Reason thats my guess is the idle issue, and it doesnt constantly blow smoke out the back.
Not to mention she runs great, gets great MPG, and has plenty of power for a Fit. So it cant be rings.

 

lol, my new AFR's are between 10.0 & 14.6... needs work

 

Hummm bizzare! A friend used to tell me his Neon started to burn oil right after he installed a longtube Race header... I tought it was because he was constantly hammering the gaz because of the newfound power!! I don't have a clue yet!

Marko!!

 

I really want to draw some conclusions about where a "Naturally Asparated" A/F ratio should be. I will start with some basic facts and thoeries....

First we know that the theoretical optimum ratio for complete burn (according to my LM2 Tuning Guide) = 14.7

I understand 14.7 is ok for cruising and idle, but as soon as you start to accelerate it should be lower.

Ok, the next thing we know is VTEC enguages somewhere around 3500rpm and changes the timing... I can only assume that with more compression the A/F target is even lower than without it enguaged.

Right now I am working under the assumption that low 14's are desireable until 3500rpms, then 13.1 is the desired AFR above that. This is what my tune looks like at WOT right now, basically this graphy shows a pull from about 2000rpms through to 7000rpms @ WOT. I will add that I have REDUCED the amount of fuel from the stock configuration even with all my mods to achieve these targets.





I am going to put together a couple of maps for my Greddy E-manage to try out on the dyno as well to see what kind of benifits leaner or richer AFR's yeild.

Anybody want to add or comment here?

 

12.5-13.5 at wot N/A depending on max power output on the dyno
11.5-12.5 boosted depending on hp level

granted the car will run fine lean...it wont run that way for long....the added fuel cools the cylinders and valves...

here is an example of a low hp boosted honda lambda map that i tuned

 

What about the lower RPM's (up to 3500), do I want to be in the mid 13's for those or can I keep it in the low 14's at WOT?

 

a/f ratio is dependant on load not rpm....high load = run rich....low load = run lean.....
on that map i posted above low load is to the left and as you push the gas petal down it will move to the right and as rpm goes up it will move down....basicly follow that map

to answer your question under light load like cruising down the street or freeway you can run very lean....but when you punch it at low rpm you dont want to be lean

 

Gotcha,

Basically I will want to try and run a nice smooth 13.1 then all the way accross (I heard 13.1 is the Fit N/A Special )

 

ok so right now I have weapon-r race headers,intake manifold and every bolt-on including skunk2 cat back and crank pulley and my afr at WOT is around 13.8

 

and nothing to tune with yet = /

 

That is not too bad, is it consistent throughout the power band at WOT?

 

nope! it starts around 13.4 at WOT then as the rpm's go up it gets to 14.1 or a little leaner then when it gets to 6k its 13.8