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Oscar Jackson Sr. on Spark Plugs

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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 06:20 PM
  #41  
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Thank you Oscar I will try them out much cheaper than an exhaust.

Joe
 
Old Jul 6, 2009 | 11:46 PM
  #42  
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My 2007 Helm manual lists two OEM plugs for our engine with gap and torque:

NGK: IZFR6K13 Honda Part #: 9807B-56A7W
Denso: SKJ20DR-M13 Honda Part #: 9807B-56A5W

Gap: 1.2-1.3mm (0.047-0.051 in)

Torque to 18 N*m (1.8 kgf*m, 13 lbf*ft)

I going to guess most cars come with the NGK since that is what's listed on bernardiparts Honda Spark Plug Fit - Bernardi Honda Parts and Accessories, but maybe some have the Denso.

The Denso and NGK plugs listed above will have the correct gap for our cars, so no need to gap. You can tell because they end in 13...or 1.3mm

I'm not sure what the part number is for the ones being sold on kraftwerks website. Maybe someone who purchases can let us know. Thanks.

I am going to guess SK22PR-M11, since there isn't an M13 version listed on Denso's website. Not sure if the 0.2mm gap difference really matters.

So the only difference is one step colder and 0.2mm smaller gap between these plugs and our OEM plugs, since both are iridium. I personally think the Honda OEM plugs are good quality.
 
Old Jul 7, 2009 | 12:24 PM
  #43  
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We provide the part number (Denso IK22). The gap is .8mm. This is a performance spark plug.

If you go to our website link, you will see the added benefits of the IK22 specifcally on the L15.

-Oscar Jr.
 
Old Jul 7, 2009 | 04:58 PM
  #44  
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order place yesterday :0
 
Old Jul 11, 2009 | 01:42 PM
  #45  
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Plugs Installed, Update.

Just had the Denso Iridium Power IK22's installed as well as an oil change and tire rotation from my buddy "Gettinafit's" shop, (shameless plug) Mineola Midas, 202 Herricks Road, Mineola, NY (516) 279-6531.

Anyway, I'm running a low boost KraftWerks A/T kit with injector upgrade. I was running NGK Iridium IX sparkplugs, BKR7EIX-11, stock no. 6988 with OK results. There was an obvious difference in gap length between the NGK's and Denso's with the Denso's being much smaller! Recently my car developed what can only be described as a "near stall" feeling when idling. After installing the Denso's that stalling condition seems to have corrected itself and everything is running much smoother now.

I guess you can assume I'm very happy with the switch to the plugs that KraftWerks recommends!























........so how about that mid-boost Kit?!?!
 
Old Jul 11, 2009 | 01:54 PM
  #46  
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Can you describe this "near stall" idle feeling?
 
Old Jul 11, 2009 | 02:07 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Koi
Can you describe this "near stall" idle feeling?
Basically, just sitting at an idle the engine would stumble like it was about to stall. Usually only happens when my car isn't warmed up yet. That's it. Didn't think nothing of it until the one time I tried to drive immediately after startup, hit the gas...STALL!

I'm not saying the NGK's were the cause of the problem but once the Denso's were put in, the problem seems to have dissapeared.
 
Old Jul 11, 2009 | 02:27 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Wave
Basically, just sitting at an idle the engine would stumble like it was about to stall. Usually only happens when my car isn't warmed up yet. That's it. Didn't think nothing of it until the one time I tried to drive immediately after startup, hit the gas...STALL!

I'm not saying the NGK's were the cause of the problem but once the Denso's were put in, the problem seems to have dissapeared.
Have you checked your vacuum lines? I've noticed that a certain hose (two parts of it actually) were leaking occasionally and causing my car to stall/die during idle and slow speeds whenever there was enough motion to make them move around. I've fixed the problem by using small hose clamps on the problem connections; the connections I'm talking about are related to the long skinny hose from the intake tube to the bent coolant tubing (two metal tubes bent together in front of the throttle body) then to the manifold. Try turning your engine on, then wiggle around the hose I mentioned from side to side and see if the engine stalls while doing so.
 
Old Jul 11, 2009 | 02:31 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Koi
Have you checked your vacuum lines? I've noticed that a certain hose (two parts of it actually) were leaking occasionally and causing my car to stall/die during idle and slow speeds whenever there was enough motion to make them move around. I've fixed the problem by using small hose clamps on the problem connections; the connections I'm talking about are related to the long skinny hose from the intake tube to the bent coolant tubing (two metal tubes bent together in front of the throttle body) then to the manifold. Try turning your engine on, then wiggle around the hose I mentioned from side to side and see if the engine stalls while doing so.
Lemme' check right now....BRB


...............just checked, nope that wasn't it.
 

Last edited by Wave; Jul 11, 2009 at 02:44 PM.
Old Jul 11, 2009 | 03:20 PM
  #50  
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My car at times has that same felling of almost stalling with my NGK's. Im planning on installing my New plugs on Tuesday or Wednesday.
 
Old Jul 11, 2009 | 03:31 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by MNfit
My car at times has that same felling of almost stalling with my NGK's. Im planning on installing my New plugs on Tuesday or Wednesday.
Let us know if you feel any noticeable differences!

I'm running the smaller gapped NGK BKR7EIX and can't recall any "idle stalling" while the engine hadn't warmed up - I had the BKR7EIX-11 (larger gap) for a very short while but I took them out because I thought I fouled them up, so can't say much regarding that particular one.
 
Old Jul 11, 2009 | 07:25 PM
  #52  
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Could we get better performance by increasing the gap back to factory specs on a N\A Fit? and more importantly to me, will it net better fuel economy?

Marko!!
 
Old Jul 11, 2009 | 09:07 PM
  #53  
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I think the IK20 is closer to our stock gap at .044" gap, versus .032" for IK22. Would be nice to see a dyno of IK20 on a NA fit, and compare to IK22.
 
Old Jul 11, 2009 | 09:45 PM
  #54  
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The IK20 is a higher heat range plug and retains heat in the combustion chamber better than the IK22 which is colder and better suited to performance driving..... The wider gap requires more current to ignite but it produces a larger spark and should be a better choice for economical driving styles.
 
Old Jul 12, 2009 | 04:05 AM
  #55  
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bump........
 
Old Jul 12, 2009 | 05:52 PM
  #56  
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Well i ended up buying NGK's BKR6EIX-11 plugs as it's what my NGK Master Catalog show as the cross reference for a IK20 plug... Wanted IK22 but those suckers are hard to get by... Anyway i'm gonna check out first if those are really shorter then stockers and return them to the store if they are not!!

Marko!!
 
Old Jul 12, 2009 | 07:32 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by DOHCtor
Wanted IK22 but those suckers are hard to get by...
They are available directly from KraftWerks.
 
Old Jul 12, 2009 | 09:50 PM
  #58  
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Well i meant from the Auto parts store where i work and many other auto parts near the place where i live!

Marko!! :P
 
Old Jul 12, 2009 | 11:06 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by SleepyNyte
I think the IK20 is closer to our stock gap at .044" gap, versus .032" for IK22. Would be nice to see a dyno of IK20 on a NA fit, and compare to IK22.
I agree!! Finally i will search some more for Denso plugs as the NGK BKR6EIX-11 i have on hand aren't that much shorter.... maybe 1 or 2 mm and will probably still protrude on the head too much for my tastes...

Marko!!
 
Old Jul 13, 2009 | 11:47 AM
  #60  
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Finally got some Denso IK22 at my job in the special order catalog... They should arrive promptly and will cost me 12$ a piece (Employee discount!)!!

Marko!!
 



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