True but seeing as the 10psi kit runs RC 310's I think these will give me the head room I'll be looking for down the road. Thanks for the detailed info on what was done to run RDX injectors on your fit too. I'll be picking up a set of these along with a wide band so I can install the header.

 

Nawp. The only thing I've touched related to the transmission is a short shift adapter, hard mount bushings for the shifter mount and a new shift boot. I never really noticed much delay on the clutch to begin with, especially after the hard motor mounts. If I let the clutch out fast, it engages fast enough to break traction, not sure why you'd want it to engage any faster unless your only goal was to bust gears or to clean those pesky splines off of the output shafts.

 

I installed a js direct clutch hose and noticed a little difference of better shifting. But the delay valve is still there.

 

Apparently, stock Toyota 1NZ-FE (1.5l Yaris!) injectors are rated at 200cc @ 43.5Psi and 1ZZ-FE (1.8l Corolla!) injectors are rated somewhere near 240-260cc at 43.5Psi!

....i have to wait until a blown Echo or Yaris appears at the shop now! It could be the perfect match for my near stock engine when i put a manifold and cat delete on! ahah!

Marko!!

 

Guess not everyone's clutch has the same lag then... mine surly slips bad compared to any car that has a direct connection. It is defiantly the delay valve as the clutch doesn't slip once engaged so its not the clutch itself. If you look around the site you will see that a lot of other fit owners have this clutch feel as well.

 

On GD3? You have deleted the clutch delay valve with the new line then, GE8's have it in the master cylinder. If your clutch still feels like that you should try bleeding the system again, I suspect air in the system.

 

I'm not sure if it is the clutch delay valve so much as it is the combination of it and the throttle lag that is causing the problem.. The ECU changes the throttle response by pulling ignition timing when you consistently drive at low RPM and adds it when you are keeping the revs higher.. After adjusting myself to one or the other ways of driving is when I find that I am either coordinating the clutch and throttle too slow or too quickly to match the other...@explosivepotato.. I'm still here and installed the KWSC high boost package 8 months ago... It did a number on my fuel mileage, the exhaust fumes are very noticeable while sitting at signal lights, and I had to install an exhaust control valve to quiet it down when driving in city traffic... since putting the base kit on 21 months ago the only additional maintenance has been 2 belt adjustments and many tire rotations.. You need to correspond with DiamondStarMonsters, you two speak the same language...

 

Texas Coyote, and others, please understand that while we all drive the same kind of car they can be quite different. I totally agree that you can match your driving to the car and drive around the problem as you have stated. However I would rather have the car drive as it should. As far as the throttle lag you are again right, it is due to the way the car does not read voltage in a true liner one to one fashion. All throttle controllers do is amplify the voltage signal to mask the problem. I have extensively modded cars in the past although never had to deal with these electronic controlled problems. The only way I can see to make the throttle work as it should would be to go to a stand alone EMS system and program the voltage points to pedal input.
I respect what you have done to your car and feel you are one of the top tier high HP supercharged fits. Very curious if you have had your car dynoed? I choose to go a different route than what is provided by KW's high boost kit. I feel there is room for improvement with a front mount and water meth, IMO the reflash will be the limiting factor compared to a stand alone unit.

 

I believe a lot of it has to do with how much you adjust to the way your car drives... I know I'm quite "adjusted" to my car at this point. As for the throttle response, I found that it improved by a HUGE margin with the hard engine mounts. Everything seems stiffer (and louder!) on the car with those mounts. When I tip sharply into the gas I can feel the kick of the motor followed by boost a fraction of a second later. I think I've almost been "trained" by my car to not notice or drive around throttle or clutch delays haha!

 

The reflash has improved the throttle response as far as I can tell by using the normal setting on the ETC so I use it mostly in the slowest opening EC5 mode to keep the noise level and wheel spin to a minimum as well as reducing fuel consumption and drive train stress.. I think my hood louvers that worked well before I installed the high boost kit is pulling hot air from the radiator and A/C condenser up through the bottom of the I/C and raising my IAT.. I have purchased materials to build a duct around the I/C that will prevent that from happening and more with an electric fan to pull air through when needed... methanol/water injection is something I plan to order before the weekend... I haven't done a dyno run but maybe I should get a baseline and do a before and after on the upcoming changes but I'm old school and get what info I need to satisfy myself using a pull between a neighbors fence line and another neighbors fence line to determine weather what I am doing is working or not.. Doing it the way I do allows me to avoid driving over 200 miles round trip to the big city and related stresses incurred by that, and allows me to have more money to spend on other stuff... If I was to do a run I don't think the numbers would be a disappointment to me.. I do have an AEM F/IC sitting on a shelf to install in the future if I feel like I need to lean out the mixture some to allow the use of a higher methanol/water to fuel ratio... The one thing that is a bother to me about the reflash is the rich A/F ratio but it does make for a safer tune than one that is on the lean side.. It just smells kind of bad to some people. Thanks for the kind words.

 

I agree with you exactly, I switch cars frequently so I feel that is why it is more prominent for me. I seem to remember it wasn't really an issue when I only drove the fit. I plan to order ether the 85A or 95A motor mounts within the month.


The reflash should be able to manage the meth all but at the same A/F ratio you probably have right now. I'm sure its in the tune for safety. Are you monitoring with a wideband? I wonder were you on high boost before swapping to a cat delete header? If yes what was your A/F? And now A/F with race header?



Sorry for off topic... to contribute to the OP's topic I've got 66K on the car 10K of those boosted with nothing other than valve adj. and maintenance. I did have a cushion clamp snap that held the ac line away from accessory belt. I believe it was from soft motor mounts.

 

No gauges other than Scangauge and OEM... I didn't have the cat delete on until after I got high boost. I had to put ther cat back on for state inspection and put it back on afterward... DSM said the same as you about ECU and A/F ratios... I forgot about having my A/C line clamp busting and the rat that ate the vacuum line to the super card.. I'll bet explosivepotato remembers that.

 

Scangauge shows A/F's?

 

The lambda voltage the O2's will give out for methanol and gas are very different so it may skew things dependent upon how much meth you use

Stoich for meth is 6.4:1AFR. Lambda 1.0v is stoich.

Methanol is going to want to run lambda (AF actual/AF stoich) .65v under boost and aggressive timing, about 4.0-4.2:1AFR or .65v lambda.

Gas has a different stoich ratio vs. lambda volts.

Pure gas stoich is 14.64:1AFR (1.0v), with 10% ethanol it is 14.13:AFR (1.0v)

Gas will usually want to run anywhere between 12.5-10.5:1AFR (0.72-0.85) depending on setup (compression, timing, airflow, etc).

Methanol's sweet spot .65v on gas scale AFRs is ~9.5-9.6:1 which is super rich. So you may need to lean things out... I wonder how the Fit ECU is going handle that.

I want to use pump gas and a healthy dose of meth and toluene to cram 30-35lbs/min through an L15A eventually.

 

Haha somehow I missed that! was that back on the 5psi kit?

 

wow man! first off congratz for ur grad ...I am also a person who used to log in alot on fitfreaks and that was bout 3-4 years ago when my fit was stock...which i got it on july 16, 2007 gd3 ftw! i stopped coming in here cuz of college, work and building my fit. Now I also have a custom setup with scion tc 370cc injectors but with an emanage blue @5psi (with the trial and error tuning) she's been boosted since 11K miles and is now currently at 63.5K (need oil change asap!), i was offered an fic for $200 like 30 minutes ago which made me want to snoop around for info so i remembered i remade this other account on here (cuz i dont remember my first one) and wanted to know how u pulling off with the fic? (I tuned the blue myself nailing a good 12-12.2 AFR on a cold night and 11.7 on a hot day at full boost) with cruising non boosted at 14's..oh and if possible, could u explain to me how this thing works now? i cant even upload a profile pic :'( nor upload pics to a threat to post my 3 year build XD

 

It would be nice if it did but it doesn't... The exhaust odor smells like that of the 472 Cadillac V8 in a hearse I owned just after starting it up on a still 15 degree morning so it is obviously running rich.....@ DSM.... Yes sir, it was the morning after I had it all together and ready to go...I had to make a 90 mile round trip to a hobby shop in Tyler for the silicone hose... I keep the engine bay liberally sprayed with rodent repellent and I don't let anyone kill snakes that eat rats. As for methanol? water mix ratio, I think it would be best to do 50/50% mix or even a little more water during the warm months... I doubt that I will see any more power than I would on a cool day that brings my IAT down to the same as the water and methanol does unless it is due to more ignition timing advance by way of the ECU from the methanol

 

nope delay valve still there. Its a steel braded hose that goes from delay valve to slave cylinder. My clutch feels fine though. No problems or complaints. When i release it goes.....

 

then you should have put the line to the master cylinder...

 

not long enough.... but yes i would have to make something custom. but my clutch feels good and no "delay" felt. so im not too worried.