140 hp fit
#41
06-07-2012, 03:02 PM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 4,424
You need to wind it out to find more power. You need that cam and springs I was pestering you about oh so long ago ;D
That is the bulk of the reasons the torque just falls off a cliff.. torque is directly related to VE
VAC/CAT Cams makes some that would be appropriate for your airflow needs.
That is the bulk of the reasons the torque just falls off a cliff.. torque is directly related to VE
VAC/CAT Cams makes some that would be appropriate for your airflow needs.
#42
06-07-2012, 10:06 PM
lol DSM. Yea, i guess you and wanderer are right. I was reaching the moon by hoping that the stock cams can be wound up higher than 6000 i guess. I have even remove the rev limiter in order to prepare... but damn....
The trouble is, i'm having a hard time finding a decent cam here. I'm not so sure by quality if I have to modify my stock cams. So I will be buying a new cam. But it cost a lot since i have to import it myself. . Just the cams, springs, retainer alone could cost me well around $1.5k... it's a big investment considering my whole stock engine only cost me $600.. That's why i've been hesitating about the cams... no question that I need it if I want to wind this up... but is it justified for the cost vs power gain? i'm beginning to think that it is not... heck, if i blow this one up again, i'm going turbo....
The trouble is, i'm having a hard time finding a decent cam here. I'm not so sure by quality if I have to modify my stock cams. So I will be buying a new cam. But it cost a lot since i have to import it myself. . Just the cams, springs, retainer alone could cost me well around $1.5k... it's a big investment considering my whole stock engine only cost me $600.. That's why i've been hesitating about the cams... no question that I need it if I want to wind this up... but is it justified for the cost vs power gain? i'm beginning to think that it is not... heck, if i blow this one up again, i'm going turbo....
#43
06-11-2012, 08:56 PM
On the Cat Cam the say to use stock components on their first cam stages! I would'nt worry about that if the car isn't to be spined past stock rev limiter with tons of boost pressures... But i would want to check out piston to valves clearance if the head is decked as the valves opening at TDC is greater! Don't forget to consider components elasticity at high RPM if clearances are tight!
Marko!
Marko!
#44
06-11-2012, 11:51 PM
Marco: no worries about the valve clearance to piston. It should have been blown to bits by now if that was an issue. I also have swapped the valve spring with a slightly stiffer one to enhance high rpm reliability. I was going to rev this past rev limiter and have even created a bypass to turn on-off the rev limiter. But considering the dyno graph I got, that bypass is now moot. Why should I rev it past 6500 if it no longer generates power past 5000rpm. Swapping cams is my last resort due to the price. Right now I'm working out on giving more air to the air filter. I have removed my filter heat shield and now will be creating an air funnel to direct cold air from outside to my air filter. It should help a bit during high speed runs. Other than that and the cams, I still see no way to increase the power band higher up the rpms
#45
06-12-2012, 09:32 AM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 4,424
Your not going to get anything of notice from the airfilter, even forward facing. You wont get any appreciable positive pressure.
Even if you do, you still have to evacuate the cylinders.
You need that cam, and a considerably big one at that if you want to hit 150whp.
If you could, please PM me about your Redline bypass
Even if you do, you still have to evacuate the cylinders.
You need that cam, and a considerably big one at that if you want to hit 150whp.
If you could, please PM me about your Redline bypass
#46
06-20-2012, 03:11 AM
DSM: you wouldn't believe it made a difference until you see the design of the heat shield... being custom made and designed by me, i have to admit that the design was... wrong.... it stiffle air input. removing it didn't magically added 4 hp to my power. lol... it only helps the engine maintain power output on the road similar to the dyno runs... preety decent so far... i'm actually curious about this car's time sheet, i guess i need to find a simple data logger to hook up
Last edited by kodok3ribu; 06-20-2012 at 04:35 AM.
#47
07-19-2012, 02:07 PM
I think these posts are right on the money. I don't have as much knowledge but can follow the information but only in theory. I can tell everybody that I tried custom cold air intake my design cause it's auto trans, pulsar plugs, ultrasonically cleaned the fuel injectors and had them flow tested, lucas fuel additive, and the result was a much improved throttle response with friggin excellent mpgs but I don't think the rpm or torque was increased by any substantial amount. I owned a 1996 VTEC Del Sol and it was I think 160 HP and it moved the light car pretty quick but it got no better than 25 mpg highway even when tuned right. Guess ya can't have it both ways. The restricted ports ring true, can't get enough air and fuel into it fast enough, huge barrier.........IMHO
#48
08-16-2012, 02:29 AM
i've got a daily driven 141whp NA L15 motor... the hard part is there is no surefire formula to achieving this, what works good for others, might no be for your car... so spend time testing and tuning various stuff...
I'll try to best describe my motor (a bit hard since the terms used here is hard to translate and i don't know what it's called down there). The motor has run: pnp, reamed throttle body. i got higher compression than stock, but i'm not sure how much though. temperature is an issue, since i live in the tropics. so i used mugen thermostat with lower cutoff around 84*c. i used chambered open air filter. i use dastek unichip piggyback. i used to use exedy clutch, but have revert back to stock ones. a light racing wheel and good tyres also make that much difference in car response
Now comes the hard part: Exhaust. This one is the most tiring one. I spend a lot of $$$ testing and tuning various stuff... But if you can get a right combination, it works wonder to your car response. I use ORD headers heat wrapped, Kansai downpipe-bpipe, no CC, and HKS mufflers. You can say that all of the exhaust pipings are custom made here. what will be hard for you is exhaust sound restriction. I've got no sound restriction and that opens up a new horizon in tuning a car. I've got stock motor running 120hp just from piggyback and freeflow exhaust (no muffler whatsoever.. just a pipe) and it sounded louder than a jet engine... i have to put on the industrial sound insulation headphones when that car were dyno-tuned.... but don't worry this is a track car, my car still use mufflers. Swapping muffler alone can give various results from 2-15hp difference. Try to find one that best suits your engine condition. And also, try it at the last stage of your engine build. since different motor will require different exhaust piping...
last tuning i get 141whp and 171 torque using RON95 pump gas.
I'll try to best describe my motor (a bit hard since the terms used here is hard to translate and i don't know what it's called down there). The motor has run: pnp, reamed throttle body. i got higher compression than stock, but i'm not sure how much though. temperature is an issue, since i live in the tropics. so i used mugen thermostat with lower cutoff around 84*c. i used chambered open air filter. i use dastek unichip piggyback. i used to use exedy clutch, but have revert back to stock ones. a light racing wheel and good tyres also make that much difference in car response
Now comes the hard part: Exhaust. This one is the most tiring one. I spend a lot of $$$ testing and tuning various stuff... But if you can get a right combination, it works wonder to your car response. I use ORD headers heat wrapped, Kansai downpipe-bpipe, no CC, and HKS mufflers. You can say that all of the exhaust pipings are custom made here. what will be hard for you is exhaust sound restriction. I've got no sound restriction and that opens up a new horizon in tuning a car. I've got stock motor running 120hp just from piggyback and freeflow exhaust (no muffler whatsoever.. just a pipe) and it sounded louder than a jet engine... i have to put on the industrial sound insulation headphones when that car were dyno-tuned.... but don't worry this is a track car, my car still use mufflers. Swapping muffler alone can give various results from 2-15hp difference. Try to find one that best suits your engine condition. And also, try it at the last stage of your engine build. since different motor will require different exhaust piping...
last tuning i get 141whp and 171 torque using RON95 pump gas.
#49
08-23-2012, 09:39 PM
Called a rolling road by some.
. it's 2 huge rolling pin in the ground where you put your car on top of it and run the car in place... kinda like cardio for cars 
it's fun to watch... it measured either bhp or whp.. i'm not sure..
#50
08-27-2012, 09:55 PM
After searching around the website of dastek unichip I have a few questions: How much did it cost, did you wire it yourself or did you use their harness listed on the website 'u-connect/plug-n-play', is this piggy back a plug in play system or did you have to tune it yourself?
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