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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 09:01 AM
  #21  
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Awesome stuff! I like the way this build is coming together.

I'm interested in finding out if your L15A can hit 160 WHP after final tune. The turbo builders here tend to err on the side of caution/reliability and limit themselves to 8 psi boost and 120-140 WHP on the same mill.

Good luck and keep us posted!
 
Old Nov 7, 2012 | 07:54 AM
  #22  
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Thanks, I believe we'll be erring on the side of caution as well for the sake of the L15A's little rods. But we'll see how the engine takes to the boost and water/meth.

I'll update this weekend with pics (the bumper should be back on with everything cleaned up and in place), expect an update early next week with the dyno figures and tuning results.
 
Old Nov 7, 2012 | 07:56 AM
  #23  
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Oh and here's one more vid:
 
Old Nov 7, 2012 | 11:38 AM
  #24  
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So ~65psi oil pressure on cold start with that 10w60?

Is that off the oil filter housing? Are you feeding the turbo oil from the OFH as well?

What is your idle AFR and vacuum reading when warm?

Sounds great! Can't wait to see you sprayin some meth and make some power.
 
Old Nov 7, 2012 | 12:30 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by DiamondStarMonsters
So ~65psi oil pressure on cold start with that 10w60?

Is that off the oil filter housing? Are you feeding the turbo oil from the OFH as well?

What is your idle AFR and vacuum reading when warm?

Sounds great! Can't wait to see you sprayin some meth and make some power.
On the 10W60, yes. No it wasn't a cold start, car was started several times to check for leaks, etc.

Yes and yes, off the OEM pickup with three T's:
-OEM one side
-AEM one side
-Blank off middle
-Oil feed in front
not ideal but we have no other feed for the turbo. So the gauge will read a bit lower than what the pressure actually is.
 
Old Nov 7, 2012 | 01:12 PM
  #26  
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If the sensors are just dead-headed off the feed line they won't affect your pressure. Any pictures you could snap of the setup? What is the inside diameter of your return line?

That 10w60 making 65psi at warm idle is more than likely going to need a restrictor or you are going to start blowing oil past the seals in your turbo when the revs start to climb.

If you can... move your pressure sending unit to a t-fitting just before the turbo and monitor it before you do a lot of driving.

Those journal bearing Mitsu Turbo CHRA's usually get fed a pretty low pressure/high volume stream off an HLA Galley on a cylinder head. Max operating listed in my service manual was like 75psi by redline.

You can lean out your idle a good 30-40 AFR points!

Exhaust tone is mean, I like it!
 
Old Nov 8, 2012 | 07:38 AM
  #27  
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Will snap a pic this weekend. Return line is around 15-20mm, matches the original fitting.
The feed is crimped, pickup is there and not after sensors due to space. A restrictor will be fitted in the future over and above that crimped bit. If that line is crimped as is (more than 90degrees) its safe to say the pressure to the turbo has been halved at least. So 75psi max to the turbo would therefore read as 150psi on the gauge, which it should never reach.
 
Old Nov 11, 2012 | 03:44 PM
  #28  
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Space is very tight
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Pretty much the finished product
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 12:55 PM
  #29  
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 01:25 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by gynosis
Will snap a pic this weekend. Return line is around 15-20mm, matches the original fitting.
The feed is crimped, pickup is there and not after sensors due to space. A restrictor will be fitted in the future over and above that crimped bit. If that line is crimped as is (more than 90degrees) its safe to say the pressure to the turbo has been halved at least. So 75psi max to the turbo would therefore read as 150psi on the gauge, which it should never reach.
This is definitely not a good idea.

Crimping the line will increase pressure, and just kill volume. For the sake of your build, please remedy that ASAP.

The picture I was looking for was where the feed line bolted in (if possible) and where all the sensors were tee-d off of.
 
Old Nov 14, 2012 | 01:22 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by DiamondStarMonsters
This is definitely not a good idea.

Crimping the line will increase pressure, and just kill volume. For the sake of your build, please remedy that ASAP.

The picture I was looking for was where the feed line bolted in (if possible) and where all the sensors were tee-d off of.
A friend took some pics from the bowels of the engine bay, will try get hold of those from him. It's a mission to take any pics now as is with everything back on the car.

I'll agree with you that it isn't the best long term solution, that's why I mentioned a restrictor will be fitted in-line in the near future.

Correct my understanding if I'm wrong here, but crimping the line would actually reduce pressure post crimp, basically the same principle as 'blowing air through a straw' Then taking that same straw bending it in half and blowing through again, pressure post bend would be reduced?
 
Old Nov 14, 2012 | 01:50 PM
  #32  
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Pressure will be increased in front of the crimp, taxing your oil pump.

Volume on the other side of the crease may not be enough to keep the CHRA from eating its self.

That is the definitive wrong way to do this, no offense of course. The car should not be run that way, period.
 
Old Nov 14, 2012 | 05:37 PM
  #33  
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where did u get that exhaust?
 
Old Nov 15, 2012 | 11:19 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by DiamondStarMonsters
Pressure will be increased in front of the crimp, taxing your oil pump.

Volume on the other side of the crease may not be enough to keep the CHRA from eating its self.

That is the definitive wrong way to do this, no offense of course. The car should not be run that way, period.
None taken, would be a bit pigheaded of me to get offended over that.
I agree its not the 'right' way to do it, its a temporary 'fix' at best.

@dewthedew- it's a custom built item, made by Toyama Racing Spirit (http://www.toyamaracingspirit.com/main/)
 
Old Nov 15, 2012 | 11:26 AM
  #35  
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Making the new grill out of this:
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Some matte black paint and fitment, then more pics
 
Old Nov 21, 2012 | 10:21 AM
  #36  
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A little update:

Sorted out some gremlins with the wiring harness, difference in the USDM vs SADM ECU pinout meant there was a misfire on cyclinder #1.

With that being sorted a dyno run on 9psi/0.6bar boost yielded in the region of 130wkw/180whp. No detonation either. However some teething problems still remain, like the wastegate not opening at 0.4bar/6psi like it should, ironing out partial throttle tuning, etc.

On a positive note at the rate the power was climbing it would've reached 140wkw/190whp at 10psi without any difficulty.

PS- an order of some inline restrictors are coming in shortly.
 
Old Nov 21, 2012 | 01:16 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by gynosis
A little update:

Sorted out some gremlins with the wiring harness, difference in the USDM vs SADM ECU pinout meant there was a misfire on cyclinder #1.

With that being sorted a dyno run on 9psi/0.6bar boost yielded in the region of 130wkw/180whp. No detonation either. However some teething problems still remain, like the wastegate not opening at 0.4bar/6psi like it should, ironing out partial throttle tuning, etc.

On a positive note at the rate the power was climbing it would've reached 140wkw/190whp at 10psi without any difficulty.

PS- an order of some inline restrictors are coming in shortly.
Nice numbers! Congrats man. Post a graph when you get a chance?

Originally Posted by DiamondStarMonsters
If I recall correctly.. you have the TD04L-13T being put on the car, which is slightly larger at the compressor inlet than the "13G" so at the same boost you should have a noticeable (~3-5%) bump in airflow over what this map will show.

The engine demand flow lines at different boost levels are laid out, and they are using a very conservative VE based off a different engines cam/head combo (1/2 of a 6G72, a 3.0 liter 6 cyl):


At 20*C and roughly sea-level altitude this would give you the following mass flow available at 7000 rpm:

5 psi boost - 13.1 lbs/min @ 78% efficiency
10 psi boost - 16.9 lbs/min @ 78% efficiency
15 psi boost - 19.4 lbs/min @ 77% efficiency
20 psi boost - 23.1 lbs/min @ 72% efficiency

Which along side that large inter-cooler will help make up for a good deal of any shortcomings in fuel or atmospheric conditions.

You could reasonably expect 8-10whp for every 1lb/min airflow using gasoline, even on a conservative tune. I actually think your VE will prove to be a bit better than that.

If you get a chance can you make note of the following points at peak power from your dyno session?:

AFR
Timing
Boost
RPM

Curious to see what your 3rd gear spool with that TD04L turbine on a high flow 1.5L will look like!
Damn I'm good

Was the W/M Injection system on that for that pull?
 
Old Nov 21, 2012 | 04:44 PM
  #38  
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Great numbers man!

And at just 9 psi of boost, too. Kudos!
 
Old Nov 21, 2012 | 05:22 PM
  #39  
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Nice build! Do u find that boosting was worth it on the small displacement engine?
 
Old Nov 23, 2012 | 06:26 AM
  #40  
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@DSM, thanks! Tuner wasn't gonna release the graph without the tune being finished nor 100% (understandable as a half done tune floating around sends the wrong message with regards to the quality of the workmanship)
No water/meth on that run.

Turns out the front (manifold) O2 sensor isn't responding fast enough, ordered a new one from Honda SA, should hopefully resolve the issue with partial throttle tuning.

Looking into the waste gate issue this weekend.

@Type 100, thanks! I was pleasantly surprised by the numbers myself.

@egvtec, it's a little too soon to tell. Enjoyed the experience thus far

Here's a little teaser:

 



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