does anyone have info on how to remove the clutch start? ive looked for a thread but cant find any info on how to remove so you can do startup without having to press in the clutch pedal.

 

I would imagine that you just bypass the neutral safety switch to make that happen. Why do you want to do this anyway?

 

thanks for reply, yea I was being lazy and finally got under the dash and just cut the connector and soldiered the wires together and shrink wrapped them. I am running a twin disc race clutch in my fit and the clutch manufacturer recommends doing this.

 

What clutch are you running? What motor/set-up are you running?

 

whatever you read, read it again. NO clutch company would ever have something like that in their instrustions.

The only time you should EVER allow a manual vehicle to start without pressing the clutch in is if the stopper of the switch failed and not allowing car to start, or if you live in a cold climate, trust yourself to never leave in gear, and install a remote start to warm your car.

 

motor is stock k24a2 with base rsx trans with mfactory lsd and tsx 6th gear added, and clutch is a competition clutch twin disc.

 

I figured you had to be running a K to go twin disc. Nice set-up!

 

I just jumpered the pins together shorting the circuit. I don't need the nanny patrol to be with me whenever I start my car. These type of safety measures are just for the ignorant.

 

I very much prefer to be ignorant in this case. My first car was old enough that it didn't come with a clutch safety switch for the starter ('84 Mazda 626), and there were a few times that I was absent-minded enough to crank the engine with the clutch engaged and so lurch forward or backwards unexpectedly. I never ran into anything, thankfully, but it certainly did get my heart beating faster a couple of times.

It also made me get in the habit of leaving the car in Reverse when I would be backing out of the parking place and in First when i would be pulling forward out of it, so as to lessen any chance of lurching into a wall or something.

Anyway, I can't really think of any time when one would want to crank the engine with the clutch engaged other than with a remote car starter. Possibly if the engine were disabled and you needed to move the car a couple of feet—but it's usually just as easy to put a smallish car in neutral and shove it manually (or let it roll with gravity). On the other hand, cranking or starting the engine in gear with the clutch engaged puts all sorts of unusual stresses on the drivetrain and starter (probably including some reasonably strong shock stresses due to gear lash in the transmission and differential).

 

I have a Wrangler Rubicon that I heavily modified for off road. There is a factory option that lets the vehicle start in gear if the transfer case is in low range only. This would be done if you were on a really steep hill and stalled or had to shut the engine down while on the hill. It keeps the vehicle from rolling back or forward down the hill during a restart.

Those of you that have been on really steep inclines during four wheeling will truly understand why it would be needed. Those of you who havent should find a friend with a Wrangler and experience the uneasy feeling in the pit of your stomach when you know pressing the clutch to restart may likely end up with you rolling down the hill and tumbling to your doom!

 

Except it's a Fit, not a Wrangler.

 

I've used it for this on the freeway before, because i'm not getting out of my car that's for damn sure. Old Corolla, no safety switch.

I am not concerned about my Fit breaking down in such a fashion so I don't really care either way. I am muscle trained to push the clutch now and even do it when I get in an automatic and it's always an unnerving feeling when there is nothing there to press

 

You are correct! I was just respnding to what DrewE said about why anyone might want to start a vehicle with it in gear.

 

2010FitSport, I'm with you- you were pointing out that there's a bigger world than subcompact commutermobiles on paved roads and things that are silly on Fits are perfectly reasonable (or necessary) elsewhere. I wasn't arguing that, just reminding the OP that rock crawling necessities are silly on regular cars.

On that note, this bears repeating:

 

While I haven't done serious off-roading, I did work on a farm doing a lot of haying for a couple of years and wrangled the loaded hay trailers up and down fields with a tractor. Somewhat similar concerns applied there, though more specifically in regards to shifting while descending down hills. It was easy enough to shift out of gear, but shifting into another gear while moving downhill quickly could turn into an uncontrollable situation (due to a non-synchromesh transmission, and wheel brakes that don't always apply equally to both wheels yet are quite capable of locking up their wheel). I never got myself into real trouble, thankfully.

I presume the problem with using the clutch when restarting when off-roading has more to do with not having three feet? I mean, it seems to me you could use the brakes to hold position and restart "normally," but then run into difficulty getting moving again.

 

Think of attempting to climb a loose, rocky steep incline in your lifted Honda Fit with 37" mud tires and a pair of Dana 70 axles underneath it.

You lose traction and start to spin the wheels. The vehicle starts to slide sideways. Continued throttle may sidehill you and cause a roll. You let off the throttle and stop.

How do you start moving forward again? If you let the brake off, you will roll back before you even have a chance to move and release the clutch.

Starting in gear is instant forward momentum and many times will regain traction because you are in low range and first gear again so you have the best crawl ratio.

 

Some members on 9thgencivic.com have done it so that they could load in kids and reach over and turn the cae on to run the air conditioning or heat while they finish getting kiddos all settled from the passenger side.

I am also one of those people who doesn't see a use for it. Not that I am against peopme doing it because they can do whatever they want to with their cars, I just won't be doing it on mine.

 

Handbrake.

 

Hmmm....tiny brake shoes inside the rear rotor that dont hold as well as they should.

Good in theory but they may not be enough under certain circumstances and a little risky to rely on.