Retrofitting HID projectors into a 2013 Fit Sport - Unofficial Honda FIT Forums


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Old 02-27-2014, 02:18 PM
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Post Retrofitting HID projectors into a 2013 Fit Sport

Hi everyone,

I know this has been done everywhere, but I wanted to share my experience installing retrofit HID projectors into my wife's 2013 Fit Sport, so here goes:

Performing a TRS Morimoto H1 HID Projector retrofit in a 2013 Honda Fit Sport
  1. Apply blue painter's tape underneath and inboard both headlight assemblies. Triple-tape underneath both headlights.
  2. Verify you have the factory radio code (if applicable). Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. Open the fuse panel by pulling down underneath the traction control switch. Remove DRL fuse (#15, 7.5A, shown with fuse puller attached) and move to spare location on inboard of fuse panel (location without contactors)
  3. Remove screws and clips on bumper. There are five clips and four screws along the bottom leading edge of the bumper holding it to the road shield, and one screw at the top-aft corner of the bumper inside the wheel wells behind the headlights.

    Gently pull straight out on the part of the bumper underneath the headlights. There's a series of clips that hold the bumper in place, and they do a great job (they'll take some work to overcome).
  4. Remove eight plungers holding grille cover in place.

    Lift up back of grille cover and carefully remove from vehicle. Set inside (away from any chance of wind), preferably on a rug, with the license plate facing up.
  5. Unplug every connector from the headlight assembly (headlight, running light, and turn signal)
  6. Using a 10mm socket, remove the four bolts holding the headlight assembly to the vehicle.
  7. Now it's time for the fun part! Remove the headlight bulb grommet, three bulbs, the big steel alignment bracket, the headlight bulb retainer spring and its screw, the four remaining trim screws, and the tinnerman (clip nut) from the housing. This should be all the metal you can reach.
  8. Preheat your oven to 200 degrees Fahrenheit.
  9. Place the headlight assembly on a cookie sheet and bake for 10 minutes.
  10. Remove from oven (with gloves) and place on a workbench.
  11. Beginning with the forward corner and working your way up and around, gently pry up on the plastic tabs along the housing seam and begin pulling the two halves apart. Use a knife to cut the glue as you split the housing. The butyl rubber glue is quite hot, so be careful. Also, make sure the butyl doesn't drip onto anything that will be visible once the assembly is put back together. That stuff is a pain to remove!
  12. You'll need to adjust the headlight aim down a fair bit to access the screw that holds the light shield in place. Mark the current position of the vertical adjustment screw with two lines, grab your trusty 10mm socket, and start adjusting!


    Be sure and count the number of turns you make: you'll want to return to the factory setting as a baseline when it's alignment time. Once you can reach this screw, remove it and pull the light shield out of the reflector. Return the alignment to its original position.
  13. These projectors came out of my wife's Civic (may it rest in peace), so they were already assembled. You can find some excellent assembly walkthroughs online, but to summarize:
    1. Use a 9 volt battery and tap it to the two wires coming out from the projector a few times. Make sure the cutoff shield retracts every time, and returns to its original position every time.
    2. Assemble your selected shroud to the projector (the gatling gun shrouds offer threads so you can screw them onto the Mini H1 projectors, but others may require an alignment ring).
    3. Remove any nuts or washers that are attached to the stem of the projector.
    4. Slide the large silicone washer onto the stem of the projector.
    5. Attach the two pin disconnect to the projector wires
    6. ...And that’s about it. These projectors are pretty straightforward.
  14. Noting the “TOP” stamping on the back of the projector, slide the assembly into the headlight reflector bowl, then slide the alignment ring, silicone washer, and spacer ring onto the projector stem. Install the nut on the back and tighten (firm, not crazy-tight).
  15. Install the HID bulb retaining ring onto the back of the projector with the three screws and tighten (again, firm, not crazy-tight).
  16. Step back and admire your work. Pretty, huh?
  17. All right, reassembly time. Make sure everything inside (including the housing lens) is perfectly clean and you haven’t left any fingerprints anywhere. If you have, you’ll have to repeat all of this to get rid of them. Press the housing lens back into place on the housing body, and put it back into the oven (200F, 7 minutes this time).
  18. Pull everything out of the oven and use clamps along the edge of the housing to make sure you have a good seal when the glue cools. The built-in clips will help with this, but they don’t do all the work.
  19. Once everything has cooled, reinstall all your metal parts onto the headlight housing.
  20. Wipe the HID bulb with the included alcohol wipe, wait to dry, and install into the projector. Use the provided clip to secure bulb to bulb retaining ring.
  21. Mount the housing back onto the vehicle with the four 10mm bolts.
  22. Repeat steps 6 through 20 for the other headlight assembly.
  23. Mount the ballasts to the bracket behind the top of the headlight housings using the fender mounting bolt. Be sure there’s exposed metal underneath each bolt. If there isn’t, use a bonding brush or sandpaper to reach the metal through the paint. Attach the ballast ground to the same bolt as the ballast bracket.

    Attach each ballast output to the bulb.
  24. Mount the relay assembly to the driver-side top radiator mounting bolt.

    Route cables for the passenger ballast and projector control along the top of the radiator, following existing cables (be sure to keep clear of any yellow harnesses - those are for the airbags, and the less you mess with them the better).



    Route the cables for the driver ballast and projector up the driver side of the battery directly to the headlight housing.
  25. Route the power cable to the main power distribution box underneath the red cover on top of the battery. Attach the terminal to one of the studs underneath the cover.
  26. Reattach the negative terminal to the battery and turn on the headlights. If you did everything right, your projectors should be shining away! Be sure that the orange running lights on top of the housings are both lit, and use the hazard lights to test both turn signal lights.
  27. Double-check your routing (keep wires clear of any belts or fans) and zip-tie your harnesses in place. This is your car, and it’s pretty, so do a good job here. The goal should be for a dealership to not be able to tell you did any work.
  28. Reattach your bumper and grille (exact reverse order as removal). Remove the tape from underneath the headlights.
  29. Step back and be proud for a minute.

  30. Align the projector cutoffs as needed (there are better walkthroughs of this online than I would write).
  31. Brag.

This is a relatively straightforward installation. Your local Honda dealer might even offer you a printout of the bumper removal instructions (they help a lot).

How confident am I in this HID system? This Fit only had 269 miles on it when I did this retrofit!


These example pictures were taken with identical exposure settings:
Before:


After:


Everything here was purchased as a kit from The Retrofit Source.
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/com...-3-kit-h1.html

Last edited by drocra; 02-27-2014 at 02:21 PM. Reason: Added link to retrofit kit
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Old 02-27-2014, 03:29 PM
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Awesome diy!
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Old 02-27-2014, 03:36 PM
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Well done, thanks for DIY. I have not seen one for GE8, only GD.
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Old 02-27-2014, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by xxryu139x View Post
Awesome diy!
For real!
Quite detailed too.... nice.


Retrofit & suspension are my top priorities for this year.
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Old 05-07-2018, 02:29 PM
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I noticed the kit is for H1 bulbs. I believe our cars take h4/9003 bulbs. Was there some kind of adapter included, to make it all work with the oem h4/9003 harness?
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Old 05-10-2018, 11:13 AM
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Awesome write up and pics! What is the lifespan of these units, I wonder? Seeing as how this was posted in 14', how are they 4+ years on?
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