The parts:

























The install:










and just a shout out to DiamondStarMonsters for some technical advice a while ago

 

What manifold is that, and where did you get it from?

 

It's a custom built log-type manifold that's been ceramic coated

 

Looks great! Can't wait to see more

 

 

Bonnet/hood back on

Flatbed to a local exhaust specialist (TNT PERFORMANCE EXHAUST SYSTEMS) to finish up the exhaust and boost piping.

 

Good stuff! When do you think you'll get to fire her up and get a tune in?

Was wondering when we'd get to follow up haha well done!

 

The car should be done this weekend, getting it back sometime this week. Then it's a matter of connecting up the last few bits, fluid top up and first start.

The dyno should be booked for the following weekend, so I'll post numbers up after that.

Yeah, kinda dropped off the face of the earth for a while, but I'm back

 

If I recall correctly.. you have the TD04L-13T being put on the car, which is slightly larger at the compressor inlet than the "13G" so at the same boost you should have a noticeable (~3-5%) bump in airflow over what this map will show.

The engine demand flow lines at different boost levels are laid out, and they are using a very conservative VE based off a different engines cam/head combo (1/2 of a 6G72, a 3.0 liter 6 cyl):


At 20*C and roughly sea-level altitude this would give you the following mass flow available at 7000 rpm:

5 psi boost - 13.1 lbs/min @ 78% efficiency
10 psi boost - 16.9 lbs/min @ 78% efficiency
15 psi boost - 19.4 lbs/min @ 77% efficiency
20 psi boost - 23.1 lbs/min @ 72% efficiency

Which along side that large inter-cooler will help make up for a good deal of any shortcomings in fuel or atmospheric conditions.

You could reasonably expect 8-10whp for every 1lb/min airflow using gasoline, even on a conservative tune. I actually think your VE will prove to be a bit better than that.

If you get a chance can you make note of the following points at peak power from your dyno session?:

AFR
Timing
Boost
RPM

Curious to see what your 3rd gear spool with that TD04L turbine on a high flow 1.5L will look like!

 

That sounds about right with regards to the turbo.

I'm at an altitude of roughly 1300-1500m/4265-4921ft above sea level. Where ambient air temps can rise to 35 degrees C quite easily during summer, sometimes even getting close to 40 degrees C.

I'll be running on 0.4bar/6psi for the sake of the longevity of the stock internals. Also going to run a 50/50 water-meth mix.

Not aiming for more than 120wkw or about 160whp.

Will try to get those values for you on the day of the tune.

 

Very nice! I am definitely not that brave!

 

I'm remembering our conversation more now, glad you went with the water injection kit. Those conditions will warrant it, and should help you claw back a bit of power at that altitude being able to run more spark advance and maybe lean out some too.

I'm afraid that because of the compressor inlet conditions experienced at ~5k ft above sea-level you may need to increase boost a good bit beyond .4 bar/6psi to make the mass flow you need to make 160whp.

Don't worry so much about the boost figure on its own. The altitude as artificially decreased your effective compression. Raise boost (if the tune allows it) for you to get to your 160whp figure.

Whether you make 160whp with 3psi or 30psi boost, the engine only knows that it is seeing enough cylinder pressure to make enough torque at a given rpm that it can generate 160whp... if that make sense.

Cylinder pressure is more your concern than boost pressure, 160whp with a turbo, is 160whp worth of cylinder pressure regardless of the boost in the manifold.

 

Thats exactly why I spent that little extra to get the water/meth kit

Unfortunately I'm fighting against altitude a bit here, 160whp would be ideal but I'm realistically expecting anywhere between 130-160whp.

Boost is all relative like you say, 6psi on a T25 won't flow the same as 6psi on a TD04. Whether it's 3psi or 30psi to flow same amount of air makes no difference when it comes down to cylinder pressures and what the engine is ultimately exposed to. Makes perfect sense what you're saying.

Sometime next year I'll look at getting a spare engine and building that up on the side: Pistons, rods, bearings, possibly sleeving the block/block brace, high profile cam, maybe changing the turbo and going external waste-gate. LSD will be a must at that point when the car starts seeing high boost.

For those wondering the car is almost fully prepped in every other area:
Brakes
Powerbrake GT slotted discs (Brake discs, rotors, pads & kits for street/race use by Powerbrake)
Endless CC-A brake pads
Braided brake lines
Motul RBF 600 brake fluid
Suspension/Chassis
BC Racing V1 coilovers
TCR kit front & rear (both struts and underbracing)
Tyres/Rims
Federal 595 RS-R intermediates 205/50/15 profile
15" Gold STR 'lightweight' rims

Might wanna change to a BBK (but that'll require a swap to 17's) and adding some Whiteline sway bars...

 

Thanks! Not sure if I'm brave or just silly

Found a 'before' pic of the engine bay I snapped before the build started

 

Tagged for future updates

 

The absolute best part about these extreme builds is that it gives us mere mortals confidence to tackle otherwise difficult mods.

Many thanks and big hopes that all works out when you turn the key over for the first time.!!!!

 

Update: The boost piping is 90% complete. All thats left is the last piece on the bottom and the pipe for intake/filter portion.

 

Here's a little update:
Water cooling on the turbo sorted:

A very messy engine bay:


The exhaust:

The gauges are powered!

 

PLEASE NOTE THAT SHE IS UNTUNED, RUNNING RICH AND A BIT LUMPY/ROUGH so don't lynch me over this start up vid...some rep would be nice though.

 

A vid of the gauges on start up: