My younger Brother has a 2011 Fit in need of a tune up. Pushing 100K. Any suggestions on wires, plugs and what other things would be great. I just like to know whats recommended. Thank you.

 

It doesn't have ignition wires, just the individual coil packs on top of the plugs.
Get NGK plugs, I would replace anti freeze, definitely brake fluid, thermostat wouldn't hurt either (easy to do).
Belt.

 

100K
1. Valve adjust if it hasn't been done.
2. New plugs.
3. The coil pacs are expendable items. Hitachi only unless you like suffering.
4. Brake fluid flush.
5. Trans fluid.
6. Hydraulic Clutch fluid.

 

Above posts sums it all. Welcome to the forums

 

Thanks guys appreciate the info.

 

Get 1-step cooler plugs w/91+ add power and mpg. You must use premium grade gas (preferably from tier-1 stations ie EXXON, SHELL, MOBIL 1, and the like. 0w-20 top grade oil helps mpg (gas mileage) big time too. The car saves u on oil changes. Because the ECU constantly samples oil and tells you (the driver) when its time to start thinking to change your oil (15%). Put 36psi of air (i use nitrogen for low leakage) for a HUGE jump in MPG gains. I see 44mpg@75mph. I hope all this knowledge from your thread helps. Thats what were here for. (2 learn and share).

 

^What?

That's a ton of misinformation.

You're not gaining a ton of power from cooler plugs & 91.

The ECU is not constantly sampling oil, that 15% is all based on formulas based on how you're driving.

You won't get 44 MPG in an auto Fit with 36 PSI in the tires, especially not at 75 MPH.

 

ik22 with 91octane have shown 3% power increase across the board from back to back dyno runs at Jackson racing.


not a ton of power but more then a bolt on exhaust or intake.


however it doesn't increase mpg, just improves the volumetric efficiency.


In full agreement with mike on the oil and have my doubts on 44mpg @ 75mph.

 

Can you explain this? Or provide reference to where an explanation can be found?
The internet is full of articles that state that neither power nor efficiency changes when higher octane fuel is used in the engine designed to work on lower octane fuel.

https://www.consumer.ftc.gov/article...ctane-gasoline

 

People don't see better mpg from more power because their heavy footed. But when u have a intake bringing in cooler more dense air frok a better spark, you'll see better power (3% never stated 20hp or any number at that) but on cruise control a more complete use of gas giving better MPG. B4 i saw 37-38. But I'm on on coastal Plains were I-95 stays from 15ft to 50ft above sea level.

 

You're not seeing that many more MPG from an axleback and an SRI.

I'm deeply devoted to maximizing MPG in my Fit & run 38 PSI in my car.

It did not increase economy that much either.

 

If you are serious about mpg numbers then look into warm air intake vs cold air intake.


Warmer air helps the atomization process much better.

 

Dense air combusts more fuel meaning less fuel wasted. I don't get your idea on clean combustion. The short ram ram gets cool air from the cool air channel that comes in from vents, through the channel above under the hood unless you removed it before thinking how useful that channel is to dumping cool air straight into the short ram intake. But who knows.

 

1992 Honda Civic VX - Import Tuner Magazine


Read the engine modification section for a better explination on how it works.


cold air means a higher oxygen charge but it doesn't emulsify so well with the injected fuel.

 

I fly planes that are still carborated. The higher you go, the cooler/more dense the air gets so you lean the engine. This saves fuel burn while at cruise. The plane is Cessna 172. Most small planes are carborated. So the more dense and cool the air is, the less fuel a car needs going the same spot, speed and with more available power the car has to use so less dropping a gear (gear hunting) less so in a test tube of same temp, head winds, and other things. It's science/math we learn in flight school which I now teach the next generation of airline pilots.