Difference between L15 in GD vs. GE.
#1
Difference between L15 in GD vs. GE.
Hey all. So I just wanted to ask a quickie. What's the difference between the L15 i-vtec motor in the GD vs the GE? Sorry if this has been asked. Did some digging but couldn't find much.
The GD's were making around 81KW and 143 n.m while redlining at around 6.5K.
My mom's GE produces a bit more at 88KW and 145n.m and hits the red line at around 6.7K but will hit the limiter at around 7.1K.
So are there any MAJOR differences? Can you get the GD doing 88KW without having to really do anything? Like as in DIY changes. No purchasing bolt ons or anything. Just is there a change I can just do from home to bump it to 88?
Im planning on trading my DSI GD for a Vtec GD. But I see the GE is putting out a bit more. GD or GE?
The GD's were making around 81KW and 143 n.m while redlining at around 6.5K.
My mom's GE produces a bit more at 88KW and 145n.m and hits the red line at around 6.7K but will hit the limiter at around 7.1K.
So are there any MAJOR differences? Can you get the GD doing 88KW without having to really do anything? Like as in DIY changes. No purchasing bolt ons or anything. Just is there a change I can just do from home to bump it to 88?
Im planning on trading my DSI GD for a Vtec GD. But I see the GE is putting out a bit more. GD or GE?
Last edited by Alastair_S1D; 04-30-2017 at 11:27 PM.
#4
Is that the only major difference between the two? Like that's it? I assume by chain driven you are talking about the cam belt / chain in this case. I always thought a chain was better. How is that allowing the GE a wee bit more power and revs?
GD is an L15A1 and the GE is an A7 am I correct?
GD is an L15A1 and the GE is an A7 am I correct?
Last edited by Alastair_S1D; 05-01-2017 at 12:09 AM.
#5
Is that the only major difference between the two? Like that's it? I assume by chain driven you are talking about the cam belt / chain in this case. I always thought a chain was better. How is that allowing the GE a wee bit more power and revs?
GD is an L15A1 and the GE is an A7 am I correct?
GD is an L15A1 and the GE is an A7 am I correct?
BOTH have timing chains.
#7
I recall having read an article a few years ago, published by Honda's Japan engineering team that designed these engines, and it was presenting all the differences between the GD and GE engine improvements. I've spent about 15 minutes trying to Google search for this article, however I couldn't find it.
The key points that I recall were along the lines of having slightly reduced the weight (and maybe size) of some internal components which improved its efficiency resulting in the minor power and mileage gains over the GD engines.
So basically there's nothing you can easily do yourself to the GD engine to get it to output the same power as the GE one.
You noted the power increase is from around 81KW to 88KW (or 109 HP to 117 HP). This is a 7% increase.
Let's say the 0-100 km time is 10 seconds for the GD engine (no sure of actual time). A simple approximation would mean that the 7% increase in power could result in a 7% decrease in acceleration time, so the 10 seconds would be reduced to 9.3 seconds.
If you believe you're going to notice that improvement, you're kidding yourself.
PS:
If there was a simple & easy way to accomplish the increase from 81 to 88 KW in power, why wouldn't the Honda engineers made that from the very beginning?
Do not believe 99% of the products out there that claim to give you extra horse-power, extra mileage, or whatever crazy promises they make. Most are pure scams and you'll waste your money.
The car manufacturers, gas and oil industries spend millions upon millions on actual scientific research in order to improve their products. All these after-market air filters, magnets, vortex generators, snake oils do not have those kinds of funds to do proper research. Instead they base their products on pseudo-science and marketing mumbo-jumbo to fool the people that don't know any better.
The key points that I recall were along the lines of having slightly reduced the weight (and maybe size) of some internal components which improved its efficiency resulting in the minor power and mileage gains over the GD engines.
So basically there's nothing you can easily do yourself to the GD engine to get it to output the same power as the GE one.
You noted the power increase is from around 81KW to 88KW (or 109 HP to 117 HP). This is a 7% increase.
Let's say the 0-100 km time is 10 seconds for the GD engine (no sure of actual time). A simple approximation would mean that the 7% increase in power could result in a 7% decrease in acceleration time, so the 10 seconds would be reduced to 9.3 seconds.
If you believe you're going to notice that improvement, you're kidding yourself.
PS:
If there was a simple & easy way to accomplish the increase from 81 to 88 KW in power, why wouldn't the Honda engineers made that from the very beginning?
Do not believe 99% of the products out there that claim to give you extra horse-power, extra mileage, or whatever crazy promises they make. Most are pure scams and you'll waste your money.
The car manufacturers, gas and oil industries spend millions upon millions on actual scientific research in order to improve their products. All these after-market air filters, magnets, vortex generators, snake oils do not have those kinds of funds to do proper research. Instead they base their products on pseudo-science and marketing mumbo-jumbo to fool the people that don't know any better.
Last edited by Andrei_ierdnA; 05-04-2017 at 01:10 PM.
#9
I recall having read an article a few years ago, published by Honda's Japan engineering team that designed these engines, and it was presenting all the differences between the GD and GE engine improvements. I've spent about 15 minutes trying to Google search for this article, however I couldn't find it.
The key points that I recall were along the lines of having slightly reduced the weight (and maybe size) of some internal components which improved its efficiency resulting in the minor power and mileage gains over the GD engines.
So basically there's nothing you can easily do yourself to the GD engine to get it to output the same power as the GE one.
You noted the power increase is from around 81KW to 88KW (or 109 HP to 117 HP). This is a 7% increase.
Let's say the 0-100 km time is 10 seconds for the GD engine (no sure of actual time). A simple approximation would mean that the 7% increase in power could result in a 7% decrease in acceleration time, so the 10 seconds would be reduced to 9.3 seconds.
If you believe you're going to notice that improvement, you're kidding yourself.
PS:
If there was a simple & easy way to accomplish the increase from 81 to 88 KW in power, why wouldn't the Honda engineers made that from the very beginning?
Do not believe 99% of the products out there that claim to give you extra horse-power, extra mileage, or whatever crazy promises they make. Most are pure scams and you'll waste your money.
The car manufacturers, gas and oil industries spend millions upon millions on actual scientific research in order to improve their products. All these after-market air filters, magnets, vortex generators, snake oils do not have those kinds of funds to do proper research. Instead they base their products on pseudo-science and marketing mumbo-jumbo to fool the people that don't know any better.
The key points that I recall were along the lines of having slightly reduced the weight (and maybe size) of some internal components which improved its efficiency resulting in the minor power and mileage gains over the GD engines.
So basically there's nothing you can easily do yourself to the GD engine to get it to output the same power as the GE one.
You noted the power increase is from around 81KW to 88KW (or 109 HP to 117 HP). This is a 7% increase.
Let's say the 0-100 km time is 10 seconds for the GD engine (no sure of actual time). A simple approximation would mean that the 7% increase in power could result in a 7% decrease in acceleration time, so the 10 seconds would be reduced to 9.3 seconds.
If you believe you're going to notice that improvement, you're kidding yourself.
PS:
If there was a simple & easy way to accomplish the increase from 81 to 88 KW in power, why wouldn't the Honda engineers made that from the very beginning?
Do not believe 99% of the products out there that claim to give you extra horse-power, extra mileage, or whatever crazy promises they make. Most are pure scams and you'll waste your money.
The car manufacturers, gas and oil industries spend millions upon millions on actual scientific research in order to improve their products. All these after-market air filters, magnets, vortex generators, snake oils do not have those kinds of funds to do proper research. Instead they base their products on pseudo-science and marketing mumbo-jumbo to fool the people that don't know any better.
I plan to do a few things. I'll probably start with a cold intake and stuff. But my end goal is to try get a little TD03 or TD04 turbo in there and try push maybe 150-160 hp. The internals up for that? Between the A7 in GE and the A1 in GD which do you reckon is easier to work with and get gains with?
I also see Honda has the new L15B7 TD03 turbo going all the way to 190Hp on the new CRV. I don't know if that figure is attainable with the A1 reliably. I wonder if Honda made big changes to the internals to reach that figure?
Last edited by Alastair_S1D; 05-04-2017 at 03:07 PM.
#11
Surely a GD kit would fit right on. I mean if I stand my car and my mom's next to each other. There aren't really major differences to the manifolds. At least with a naked eye without pulling anything off. Surely it wouldn't take much modification?
Last edited by Alastair_S1D; 05-04-2017 at 03:48 PM.
#12
GE8 has exhaust manifold cast into the cylinder head, GD3 did not.
Mate, all you see with the hood open is the intake manifold, the exhaust manifold is obscured from view.
#13
I haven't dived to deep yet. But I assumed that could be the case.
#15
Interesting. I plan on building up my car a little bit. I've got a GD. And I was just curious. Cause my mom's got a GE and well the power difference as you say isn't noticeable. But it's there and I was wondering how they did it.
I plan to do a few things. I'll probably start with a cold intake and stuff. But my end goal is to try get a little TD03 or TD04 turbo in there and try push maybe 150-160 hp. The internals up for that? Between the A7 in GE and the A1 in GD which do you reckon is easier to work with and get gains with?
I also see Honda has the new L15B7 TD03 turbo going all the way to 190Hp on the new CRV. I don't know if that figure is attainable with the A1 reliably. I wonder if Honda made big changes to the internals to reach that figure?
I plan to do a few things. I'll probably start with a cold intake and stuff. But my end goal is to try get a little TD03 or TD04 turbo in there and try push maybe 150-160 hp. The internals up for that? Between the A7 in GE and the A1 in GD which do you reckon is easier to work with and get gains with?
I also see Honda has the new L15B7 TD03 turbo going all the way to 190Hp on the new CRV. I don't know if that figure is attainable with the A1 reliably. I wonder if Honda made big changes to the internals to reach that figure?
But I'm responding anyway related to the cold intake.
I think it's a pointless waste of money, time and materials.
Changing the air intake from stock/OEM usually means less filtration so more potential for engine damage from dirt particles. Is this risk worth a marginal gain in power that you're really not even going to feel? If you feel anything, it's the Placebo effect caused by a lighter wallet. WEIGHT REDUCTION, BRO!!!
The Honda Fit, at least the GE8, has a pretty decent "cold intake" designed by their engineers. It takes outside air (ie. cold air) through the upper grille intake which avoids the hot engine bay area directing air through the hood attached plastic duct towards the engine filter intake (behind the filter box and battery).
Does your GD3 have that air duct attached to the hood (on the right side)?
I occasionally monitor the intake temperature with my ScanGuageII.
I'm happy to report that the intake temp basically stays at same temp as outside for the first 5-10 minutes of driving. Eventually it increases past the outside temp, but very slightly, only by a few degrees. If it's 25C outdoors it might go as high as 30C, not enough to make any difference.
Last edited by Andrei_ierdnA; 05-04-2017 at 08:30 PM.
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