its easy. I mean literally 60 seconds to completely remove one from the car, which is good because you'll probably have to sit in in there as a test and walk away to see how bad it glares/ how it matches with the lowbeams.

Removal screw is the only one on the outside of the foglight housing. It's on the side in the lower grille. It has a 10mm hex head + phillips, so your choice.

The other two you'll see once you unplug the harness from the lamp and have it off the car.

Just be sure to have the tab on the other end properly inserted behind the bumper so it's supported by both sides when you reinstall it.

 

I love how All pictures show up on this website, except the important ones. Like these. Figures, it always happens like this. I wasnt meant to have help, bottom feeder

 

 

For some reason Honda did not adjust USDM Fit headlamps properly. They don't seem to be alone in this as both my Chrysler vehicles were delivered the same way too.

In all three cases (Fit, Dodge Dakota, Chrysler Pacifica) the headlamp aim was noticeably low when compared to DOT/SAE specifications.

Daniel Stern explains the standards very well on his web page: Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply

USDM Fit headlamps have the VOR adjustment code so at 25 feet the beam cutoff should be exactly the same height off the ground as the headlamp's optical center (30" by my measurement). So I adjusted my headlamps per Mr Stern's method and the improvement was dramatic, safe, and legal.

Now my low beams provide a useable pattern, my high beams still reach far down the road, and nobody is inconvenienced or endangered with glare.

Turning the headlamps up until they look good to you might leave room for improvement or may blind oncoming drivers. The only way to be sure is to measure and do it by the book.

BTW, while adjusting the lights tonight I noticed that turning the adjustment screw in the U direction lowers the beam and the opposite is true. Why? I haven't a clue.

 

One more thing, IMHO it is a waste of time and money to upgrade bulbs unless headlamp aim is checked and corrected first.

 

Another good resource:
LIS > Administrative Code > 19VAC30-70-140

http://www.300cforums.com/forums/lig...eadlights.html

 

Thanks DD. Finally got around to doing mine. Used a small straight slot instead of a philips as was posted previously. Just picked at the gear teeth with a 1/8 tip straight slot. CCW down, CW up. Marked the spots on the gear before adjusting. 1 1/2 turns ccw right, 1 1/2 turns cw left. Big difference. Not perfect but a lot better. Lastly, checked from rear view mirror and oncoming. Projection was just fine. Thanks again for the post.

 

It's Honda's marketing dictating/driven bad/unfriendly policies like this one that I hate HONDA. Fit is my first and last HONDA for sure. You touch anything and its a PITA (Pain in the A**) to accomplish........be it battery, swapping a radio, duplicating a key, misleading MPG statements, etc etc. thus forcing return trips to stealership for everything even as basic as changing a battery or a light bulb.

 

I heard that ge's problem is that the lowbeam is pointed way low compared to other cars.

Changed my ge's h4 hid to cree led hi/low and still on a factory adjustment. My problem is that the output is so near on lowbeam and too high for high beam. I think it's because of the led bulb design. Can the output still be fixed by adjusting the reflectors/lamp? If i adjust the low beam goin up, is the highbeam also adjust way higher too?

Whats the best way of adjusting the headlamp assembly? When the car is parked infront of a wall and marking the wall so that you will have a guide when the light is starting to lift up

Or

There is a specific number of turns on the adjustment screw to achieve a correct measurement?

Thanks

 

Adjusted my lights and much better, but had to come down a tad cause high beams were way to high.

Only went one full turn clockwise then a third back after high beams were to high.

Great thread

 

What a difference! Im glad I finally took the 10 minutes to do this mod... should be the first thing done on all factory FITs

 

Thanks D x2 it takes a lot of turns to move but it moved!

 

Its required on all HID lights in the US, sealed beams and halogen lights almost never got them, even don't on a brand new car other than some of the BMW/mercedes etc stuff.