Bulb sizes: Fit 2015 - Complete List
#41
01-07-2015, 05:51 PM
I agree thank you for sharing. The HID is the main reason why I am avoiding it and figure led would be a better more energy efficient solution. unfortunately the stalling problem is a deal breaker for me until that is corrected for.
#42
01-07-2015, 08:25 PM
Check out my main thread, much of the mods I took a gamble on, thankfully they worked out great! Its 10 degrees out now and heated side mirrors are AMAZING!
#43
01-08-2015, 05:25 AM
And you're right, no resistors needed for the fogs. They are plug and play.
#44
01-08-2015, 12:46 PM
Just order the interior LED's from Amazon...
looking for the f & r turn signals now...
#46
02-12-2015, 07:44 PM
So I ordered the switchback LEDs from ebay today. They will cone with the resistors. Anyone have a guide to install the resistors specifically on the 2015 Fit? I can do much any mod needed on my own car. Electrical isn't my thing though. Makes me nervous....
#47
02-24-2015, 07:45 PM
So Andre, I'm highly considering the Black Edition H4 LED bulbs from GTlightingusa.com. My concern is the DRL operation. I want the DRL to function normally. Is that what will happen?
#48
02-24-2015, 09:08 PM
Im working on a custom retrofit kit to allow normal DRL operation with a DCtoDC converter and Relay. I hope to use the existing DRL relay and reroute its powered bus to the DC-DC converter. The high beam will run down to 9VDC @3A for both LEDs from Sirius LED. 6400 lumen total, 3200 per bulb.
#49
02-24-2015, 10:26 PM
Bassguitarist is correct.
LEDs + DRLs will not produce a desirable look or function. If you go with LED headlights, you will need to disable the DRLs.
Some on the board have rewired their car to burn the parking lights/turn signals as the DRLs instead of the main headlights. That could be an option for you if you wanted. I haven't done that (its on my to-do list). Doing that with a Type A or Type B switchback bulb would look great IMO which is why I'm going to do it.
LEDs + DRLs will not produce a desirable look or function. If you go with LED headlights, you will need to disable the DRLs.
Some on the board have rewired their car to burn the parking lights/turn signals as the DRLs instead of the main headlights. That could be an option for you if you wanted. I haven't done that (its on my to-do list). Doing that with a Type A or Type B switchback bulb would look great IMO which is why I'm going to do it.
#50
02-24-2015, 11:14 PM
The Switchback bulb sounds like a great idea. If it wasn't so fucking cold here in Connecticut I would be doing the retrofit now. Until Connecticut becomes warmer than Alaska (really) I just have all the parts in the box.
FYI the area where I live hit a low of -15 degrees Fahrenheit the other day. FMR!!
FYI the area where I live hit a low of -15 degrees Fahrenheit the other day. FMR!!
#51
03-30-2015, 07:23 PM
Bassguitarist is correct.
LEDs + DRLs will not produce a desirable look or function. If you go with LED headlights, you will need to disable the DRLs.
Some on the board have rewired their car to burn the parking lights/turn signals as the DRLs instead of the main headlights. That could be an option for you if you wanted. I haven't done that (its on my to-do list). Doing that with a Type A or Type B switchback bulb would look great IMO which is why I'm going to do it.
LEDs + DRLs will not produce a desirable look or function. If you go with LED headlights, you will need to disable the DRLs.
Some on the board have rewired their car to burn the parking lights/turn signals as the DRLs instead of the main headlights. That could be an option for you if you wanted. I haven't done that (its on my to-do list). Doing that with a Type A or Type B switchback bulb would look great IMO which is why I'm going to do it.
Andre, I finally have some decent weather this weekend to install the Sirius LED Headlights. I will be disabling the DRL's for now until I can dig into the circuitry more.
Were you able to find the DRL relay on the GK? I would want to find it, and replace the DRL power input to it with a DC to DC converter that will dim the LEDS but not cause them to flicker.
#54
04-01-2015, 10:07 AM
I had to look up what a headlight modulator was 
The flickering is not noticeable to the eye with such a device. Unfortunately the flickering is very noticeable with the DRL unit powering the LED conversion kit.
My thought is that a step down DC/DC converter that takes 12VDC nominal and brings it down to 8-9VDC constant, not PWM on the output will bring the high beam intensity down without the LED diode flickering. The DRL unit would power a SPST relay to activate this DC/DC converter on the output which would de-energize the high beam hot when the headlights are full on, preventing backfeed of the converter.
This may be more complex than needed, but the logic is sound.
The more simple solution is to disable the stock DRL unit in the FIT via fuse #25 under the drivers side dash. Next purchase an external DRL unit connected to auxiliary lights, that triggers when the headlights are off, and disable when the lights are turned on. The power feed to this unit would also be on an ignition active power bus.
The flickering is not noticeable to the eye with such a device. Unfortunately the flickering is very noticeable with the DRL unit powering the LED conversion kit.
My thought is that a step down DC/DC converter that takes 12VDC nominal and brings it down to 8-9VDC constant, not PWM on the output will bring the high beam intensity down without the LED diode flickering. The DRL unit would power a SPST relay to activate this DC/DC converter on the output which would de-energize the high beam hot when the headlights are full on, preventing backfeed of the converter.
This may be more complex than needed, but the logic is sound.
The more simple solution is to disable the stock DRL unit in the FIT via fuse #25 under the drivers side dash. Next purchase an external DRL unit connected to auxiliary lights, that triggers when the headlights are off, and disable when the lights are turned on. The power feed to this unit would also be on an ignition active power bus.
#55
05-09-2015, 07:22 PM
Normally, I'd be happy to, but because I have everything all taped up with electrical tape, I'd rather not undo it all to show a true step by step. But it really is EXTREMELY easy. My bad for not doing it in the first place.
Plan on it taking about 30-45 minutes to do all 4.
I'm not big with electrical at all (I'm a financial analyst, good with numbers, not technical stuff lol) but it really wasn't hard. The hardest part is having enough room to install the resistors for the front lights. Especially the driver side light, with the battery right there its a tight space to work it.
You need resistors for each of the turn signals that you want to replace with LEDs. 4 total if do front and back. Front and rear, you will need to CAREFULLY cut the plastic shielding that covers the wires. Cut enough to give yourself plenty of space to work with, but not so much that you are cutting like a madman. Again be careful and go slow, you don't want to cut the wires.
After you're done, I recommend covering the splices and the wires that are no longer covered by the stock plastic shielding with electrical tape. Just to prevent water are anything shorting it out. Don't wrap the actual resistor with tape. They get very hot and the resistor will melt electrical tape.
If you do it right (and this weekend I will take some pictures as a guide), for the rear, you can put the resistor closer to the car than to the light and when you put the tail light housing back on the car, the resistor will fall down behind the rear bumper and it works perfectly because there isn't much room between the light and the car body once the light is fully secured.
For the front, I zip-tied the resistors in place so they wouldn't interfere with anything in the engine bay. Especially the driver side, I didn't want the hot resistor near the car battery. Again I will take pictures just to show how I mounted them.
I used this video as a guide and it was perfect. All the advice given here worked for the Fit. Follow along with the video and you will be in business!
How to Install Resistors for LED Turn Signals, Fix Hyperblinking! - YouTube
Plan on it taking about 30-45 minutes to do all 4.
I'm not big with electrical at all (I'm a financial analyst, good with numbers, not technical stuff lol) but it really wasn't hard. The hardest part is having enough room to install the resistors for the front lights. Especially the driver side light, with the battery right there its a tight space to work it.
You need resistors for each of the turn signals that you want to replace with LEDs. 4 total if do front and back. Front and rear, you will need to CAREFULLY cut the plastic shielding that covers the wires. Cut enough to give yourself plenty of space to work with, but not so much that you are cutting like a madman. Again be careful and go slow, you don't want to cut the wires.
After you're done, I recommend covering the splices and the wires that are no longer covered by the stock plastic shielding with electrical tape. Just to prevent water are anything shorting it out. Don't wrap the actual resistor with tape. They get very hot and the resistor will melt electrical tape.
If you do it right (and this weekend I will take some pictures as a guide), for the rear, you can put the resistor closer to the car than to the light and when you put the tail light housing back on the car, the resistor will fall down behind the rear bumper and it works perfectly because there isn't much room between the light and the car body once the light is fully secured.
For the front, I zip-tied the resistors in place so they wouldn't interfere with anything in the engine bay. Especially the driver side, I didn't want the hot resistor near the car battery. Again I will take pictures just to show how I mounted them.
I used this video as a guide and it was perfect. All the advice given here worked for the Fit. Follow along with the video and you will be in business!
How to Install Resistors for LED Turn Signals, Fix Hyperblinking! - YouTube
Last edited by pacothebandit; 05-09-2015 at 07:27 PM.
#56
05-10-2015, 12:07 AM
Dammit, I really want to do switchback on the front but dont want to cut into anything factory, although ive used those auto splicing tools and that makes it hella easy. I bought the 120k warranty from honda and am afraid that any mods I do other then PNP will void it. Anyone else buy it? How are you dealing with that.
Ill try to do a night video if I can.
#58
05-15-2015, 09:26 PM
I hope someone can help me here:
I added the "type A" bulbs and resistors and I'm still getting hyperblinking. However, the hazards are normal. Any ideas? Is it hurting anything if I leave it? The blinking is probably less than twice as fast, but noticeably faster.
Thanks ahead for anything you can add.
I added the "type A" bulbs and resistors and I'm still getting hyperblinking. However, the hazards are normal. Any ideas? Is it hurting anything if I leave it? The blinking is probably less than twice as fast, but noticeably faster.
Thanks ahead for anything you can add.
#59
05-16-2015, 12:21 AM
I hope someone can help me here:
I added the "type A" bulbs and resistors and I'm still getting hyperblinking. However, the hazards are normal. Any ideas? Is it hurting anything if I leave it? The blinking is probably less than twice as fast, but noticeably faster.
Thanks ahead for anything you can add.
I added the "type A" bulbs and resistors and I'm still getting hyperblinking. However, the hazards are normal. Any ideas? Is it hurting anything if I leave it? The blinking is probably less than twice as fast, but noticeably faster.
Thanks ahead for anything you can add.