Awwnesss? O.o

I'm not an E-thug I'm a troll. And called you out on your stereo knowledge. I do car audio for a living. So I'd say two of the most knowledgeable people stereo wise are posting on your subwoofer thread. Radareclipse and myself.

The E-thug is you and the way you talked about Texas and Texans in another thread. But that's a little off-topic.

 

lol...yup people in this country no longer have a spine...you all get your feelings hurt over nothing.

 

Whoa what? It doesn't work that way. Lets just assume your getting 14.4V since you have "adequate power" you would divide that by 14.4 giving your approximately 278 amps. Assuming your playing music not test tones you will only need about half of that on a regular basis. And assuming you are using 1/0 power wire and have only 18ft of it with B+ and G and you only have 5ft of 12ga for speaker wire you are loosing somewhere in the neighboorhood of 350 watts rms because of inadequate wire this is still assuming you have adequate power supply

Edit: once again a true 4kw amp is capable of drawing about 400amps

 

the amp properly does draw around 400amps wide open...4000watts+21%=4900watts total draw...4900/12=408 amps...your assuming i listen to this at 100%....i dont burb or push this equipment....the reason i like running high wattage amps is for the headroom on peaks....if i ran it at 100% i would have enough reserve capacity in the battery and batcap to run it without the alternator but not for long.

 

alot of people think that gain on an amp is a volume control and its not. Its simply there for matching input with your given output. I could see this setup possibly working if you were running at a higher ohm load than minimum for the amp and had your outputs turned down. But even then i would imagine it would be killing your cars electrical. 9 times out of 10 using capacitors with digital amplifiers is only a hindrance. I wouldn't be supprised if you took the capacitors out and left only the batcap and batteries it would improve the system

 

the amp internally has a half farad on the pcb...the caps are mainly there for the class a/b amp for the mids and highs. i do understand how gain works quite well actually...ive etched quite a few pcb's and built quite a few amps over the years in a quest for better understanding of linear circuts and how i can improve them.

heres a picture of the first amp ive taken apart and redesigned....im also into home auto more then car auto...this is also a "digital" or switching type amplifer and i can tell you without the huge caps i wouldnt even be close to the 3db of headroom is has...ever since we went away from tubes they have all been switching type amplifiers...the transistor was the downfall of audio sound quality

 

I would question the upgraded electrical system supplying proper amperage for even your general listening with this 4kw amp. When you have a great system, it's hard to keep from turning it up alot. I have 600w on mids/highs and 500w on the subs at 4ohm load with regulated ps's. With four Stinger batteries (the small guys) paralleled together in the back, they don't last all that long in reserve when your not plugged in or driving at higher RPM's.