you can just get some rounded hex screws or torx head screws at
your local Acehardware or hardware store...

just bring your progress bolt and nut along to check the diameter
and pitch. you dont HAVE to have locking nuts either. just put some
loctite blue on there.

 

for those that might want to do some searching around at the
hardware store before getting their bars, the progress bolt thread
diameter is 10mm.

try to find a rounded head hex screw and matching nut.

 

thanks, i tried looking at home depot this morning...their selection was crap..well the one in my area at least. i will give acehardware a try today.

 

Let me know what you ended up getting. I have Eibach Pros also and considering buying the sway bars. I know it's a 10mm but how long is the bolt? Thanks, Alan.

 

i'll let you know..i ordered the panducky hardware kit already but my order hasnt been processed yet. if i find something i'll just cancel the order cause i hate waiting.

 

bolt length is about 40mm. as long as you dont get a stubby short or
stupid long bolt it'll work cause the length of the bolt just hangs past
the bottom of the spring seat.

wat's more important is you get a bolt that has thread diameter of
10mm.

 

I suggest that you wait for the Panducky kit. You won't find "Grade 8" automotive bolts at Ace Hardware. The mild steel hardware at Ace could break under stress- Grade 8 bolts won't. And that is with the assumption that "Hocker" and his friends use Grade 8 bolts in their kit. If you have to get this done now, look in your phone book for an Industrial Fastener supply shop. They will have 10mm dia. bolts to match automotive hardness and temper specs.

 

Actually there is a good little article here that goes over the differences between grades of bolts. Grade 8 is referring to the SAE bolt designations, if you are looking at ASTM designations the equivalent is A490.

ROCKCRAWLER.com - Grade 5 vs. Grade 8 Fasteners

With that said, three 10mm grade 8 bolts at each side is going to have a pretty insane sheer capacity. What are the anticipated loads you guys assumed when choosing this bolt spec?

Also, what is the edge distance and thickness of the connection plate on the progress bar?

 

SP-
Grade 8 may be "overkill" but the fasteners at our Ace Hardware chain stores break VERY easily. I have had large dia. lag bolts snap off with a socket wrench, because they were CAST, rather than being machined from bar stock. Grade 8 bolts won't cost but a few cents more than Grade 5. If the bolts are cheap and soft, they probably won't break, but can stretch over time and result in rattles and squeaks. No sense in doing this job twice.

 

Agreed about the generic bolts from Ace. Also it is true that the grade 8 bolts are basically the same price and grade 5.

To be honest though I don't think that bolt fatigue would be an issue with the grade 5 bolts. You could expect the generic bolts from Ace to start showing signs of fatigue within a year if you are pushing your car quite a bit and making the most of your new bar.

 

i dont think the bolts would be a problem given that there are 3
of them on each side and not over torqued, but if you feel safer with
the higher grade, it is definitely up to you.


not going to stop anyone or sit here and argue.

 

another installed pic
cept mine has T1R coilover and it needs modifications to the spring pouch
here are the pics



clears my big exhaust

 

just installed..i had a blast driving around the city tonight! soooo much fun!!!

 

jeffquach, do you have a front sway bar or just the progress rear? because i just got mine and installing it soon and wanted to know if i need to invest in a front one too instead of just having the rear only...

and how would they do with my lowering springs?

 

Hey Jeff,
How did that pandducky kit work out with the rear sway? Is it worth buying?

 

i just have a rear sway bar....its a huge difference. and are you talking about having a front strut bar or sway? you wouldnt need a front sway bar...a front strut bar is fine though. you might need smaller bolts for your lowering springs...but install it first and find out. installation is really simple.

 

i ended up buying bolts from my local hardware store. they are identical from the ones in the panducky kit. quality seems pretty good...i'll see how they hold up in a couple of months.

 

ALL Fits HAVE a front anti-sway bar. Battle Endless makes a heavier, larger diameter REPLACEMENT front anti-sway bar, but if you replace the stock front bar with the stiffer after-market bar, you will lessen or eliminate the spectacular handling that the Progress rear bar provides (if you have the rear bar already). You should choose one bar or the other, not both. The Progress bar is much less expensive and much easier to install--no frustration, instant results.

 

i wish my shocks werent blown so i could enjoy the ride again
im thinking of picking up some coil overs but i dont know which would work better with the bar
any suggestions???
PM me pls

 

i was talking about a front sway bar, but i didn't kno that the fit already had one...now that i kno i don't need an aftermarket front sway bar, i'm gonna install my progress tonight