Progress Auto Rear Anti-Sway bar! WITH DIY PHOTOS PAGE 5!
Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,329
From: Cleveland, GA
If you are having a hard time finding the Progress lowering springs or the Progress rear sway bar kits in stock anywhere, I have them on the shelf. Free shipping in the lower 48 States on the Progress rear sway bar kit for the Honda Fit for a limited time.
Tony D
Your Progress Dealer
Tony D
Your Progress Dealer
noises
Just wanted to reinforce the fact there should be no noises coming from the suspension after the install with stock suspension.
After the install I heard clinking noises, drove it like that for 2 months thinking it was normal.. turns out I had to retighten the shock bolt a little more. Now no more sound!
After the install I heard clinking noises, drove it like that for 2 months thinking it was normal.. turns out I had to retighten the shock bolt a little more. Now no more sound!
Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,398
From: CT
Is it really necessary to take out the rear springs to install this? I was just under my car taking out my Megan Racing axle-back to repaint it and when looking, I could easily get a bolt through the holes without taking the spring out. Is it just not possible to manuever the bar in without the springs being out?
Is it really necessary to take out the rear springs to install this? I was just under my car taking out my Megan Racing axle-back to repaint it and when looking, I could easily get a bolt through the holes without taking the spring out. Is it just not possible to manuever the bar in without the springs being out?
i posted over in the EnduraTech thread, but here is wat i did as far
as running dummy bolts to level the springs straight on the coilover
base.
the blue is for the progress bar (non-progress hardware)
the green is carriage bolts (dummy)
the empty hole is where your rubber spring mount alignment tab goes.
Driver's side example:
as running dummy bolts to level the springs straight on the coilover
base.
the blue is for the progress bar (non-progress hardware)
the green is carriage bolts (dummy)
the empty hole is where your rubber spring mount alignment tab goes.
Driver's side example:
Last edited by kenchan; Mar 29, 2008 at 08:12 AM. Reason: spelling.... ;p
Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,398
From: CT
I understand that... maybe my car is just weird but on the right side (only side I checked) the rubber piece under the spring was not wide enough to cover those holes and had I had bolts I would've been able to stick them through those holes as shown in blue by Kenchan's pic. That's why I was curious about it.
yah, those are actually water drain holes, i think, so it shouldn't
really be covered up.
if you can get a wrench up over the ridge of the spring carrier
to hold the bolt in place while you do your lock-nut, i suppose you
could do it without remove the spring, but i doubt it. not enough
space.
it'll be easier to just remove the 2 bolts below the shocks and
just do it the standard way. ive taking my rear apart so may
times it'll probably only take like 15-20min to do the swaybar
install.
as a tip, feed the bar over your exaust first and bolt up your
driver side. then do the passenger side. this way you won't
put so much strain on the gas filler piping in case you have to
put the bar's weight on it temporarily. it'll be best not to put
any weight on that filler tube though.
really be covered up.
if you can get a wrench up over the ridge of the spring carrier
to hold the bolt in place while you do your lock-nut, i suppose you
could do it without remove the spring, but i doubt it. not enough
space.
it'll be easier to just remove the 2 bolts below the shocks and
just do it the standard way. ive taking my rear apart so may
times it'll probably only take like 15-20min to do the swaybar
install.
as a tip, feed the bar over your exaust first and bolt up your
driver side. then do the passenger side. this way you won't
put so much strain on the gas filler piping in case you have to
put the bar's weight on it temporarily. it'll be best not to put
any weight on that filler tube though.
Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,329
From: Cleveland, GA
I made my wife hold the bar while I put in the bolts 
I had to remove a clip that wraps around the filler piping...try as I might the bar just wouldn't clear it. Once in place, I put the clip back on. Since I'm lazy and have air tools, I undid the top nut on the shocks instead.
I had to remove a clip that wraps around the filler piping...try as I might the bar just wouldn't clear it. Once in place, I put the clip back on. Since I'm lazy and have air tools, I undid the top nut on the shocks instead.
I made my wife hold the bar while I put in the bolts
I had to remove a clip that wraps around the filler piping...try as I might the bar just wouldn't clear it. Once in place, I put the clip back on. Since I'm lazy and have air tools, I undid the top nut on the shocks instead.
I had to remove a clip that wraps around the filler piping...try as I might the bar just wouldn't clear it. Once in place, I put the clip back on. Since I'm lazy and have air tools, I undid the top nut on the shocks instead.
anything on mine. the Progress bar comes with instructions.
Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,329
From: Cleveland, GA
I'm not saying that we had the slightest bit of trouble. I've done a LOT harder things to cars that were a lot harder to work on without any pictures, instructions, or advice....try changing the rear plugs on a Taurus SHO.
Most important thing about the bar is that it does exactly what it's supposed to. The handling is much crisper and, the best part in my book, the car goes down the highway with more straight line stability.
hey man, if you have any problems with it, call me and ill grind down the bolts for you like i did for mine.
yah, it was a low res pict instructions and quite honestly i didnt look
at it all too closely. i looked at some of the pictures posted here
and just snaked the bar to make it look like the finished product.
I removed mine the other day and I cant remember how I
snaked it out. hahaha... i think i removed it by pushing the passenger
side forward as far as it could go, then snaking the driver side over
the filler line and pulled it out. you have to be completely under the
car facing up inorder to see what you are doing..which im sure what
everyone does. but you should not need to remove anything on the
car to snake it in. (obviously you will need to remove the bolts and
springs to install)
at it all too closely. i looked at some of the pictures posted here
and just snaked the bar to make it look like the finished product.
I removed mine the other day and I cant remember how I
snaked it out. hahaha... i think i removed it by pushing the passenger
side forward as far as it could go, then snaking the driver side over
the filler line and pulled it out. you have to be completely under the
car facing up inorder to see what you are doing..which im sure what
everyone does. but you should not need to remove anything on the
car to snake it in. (obviously you will need to remove the bolts and
springs to install)
I don't know about your instructions, but mine were almost funny in how vague they were. No mention of which side to slide the bar in from, no mention of whether it goes in front of or behind the brake lines, no mention of the filler lines at all, no mention of how to remove the rear springs...just said "removal of rear springs is necessary." Basically you get two fuzzy pictures that have been photocopied too many times on a sheet of paper. The instructions are a joke.
I'm not saying that we had the slightest bit of trouble. I've done a LOT harder things to cars that were a lot harder to work on without any pictures, instructions, or advice....try changing the rear plugs on a Taurus SHO.
Most important thing about the bar is that it does exactly what it's supposed to. The handling is much crisper and, the best part in my book, the car goes down the highway with more straight line stability.
I'm not saying that we had the slightest bit of trouble. I've done a LOT harder things to cars that were a lot harder to work on without any pictures, instructions, or advice....try changing the rear plugs on a Taurus SHO.
Most important thing about the bar is that it does exactly what it's supposed to. The handling is much crisper and, the best part in my book, the car goes down the highway with more straight line stability.
If you are having a hard time finding the Progress lowering springs or the Progress rear sway bar kits in stock anywhere, I have them on the shelf. Free shipping in the lower 48 States on the Progress rear sway bar kit for the Honda Fit for a limited time.
Tony D
Your Progress Dealer
Tony D
Your Progress Dealer