Progress Auto Rear Anti-Sway bar! WITH DIY PHOTOS PAGE 5!
the day i installed them i coated both the rubber bushings in silicon spray, as well as the perch so that i would have alittle play to slide the spring off of the bolt heads before i placed the entire cars wieght on the spring. that had no results.
i have since fixed my problem and went ot home depot and got some 18-8 grade bolts that looked like the ones in the panducky kit and installed them. problem solved.
but i am still going to try and get in touch with progressive to inform them they should sell their kits with updated hardware.
well to further prove my point, yes, this is another person who feels the design isnt the best. might not have said it in those words, but you need to get into a readin comprehension class if you cant figure that out.
alright, we all get it. you enjoy buying parts that are flawed and like to live with them. i expect quality when i buy from a quality company. **** off if you dont have any constructive input.
i have since fixed my problem and went ot home depot and got some 18-8 grade bolts that looked like the ones in the panducky kit and installed them. problem solved.
but i am still going to try and get in touch with progressive to inform them they should sell their kits with updated hardware.
well to further prove my point, yes, this is another person who feels the design isnt the best. might not have said it in those words, but you need to get into a readin comprehension class if you cant figure that out.
alright, we all get it. you enjoy buying parts that are flawed and like to live with them. i expect quality when i buy from a quality company. **** off if you dont have any constructive input.
bolts were $2.50/pair and loctite nuts were $.98/pair
they didnt stock much metric, so i got standard sizes. i think the thread size was 5/16"x10 and the bolt head looks just liek teh panducky hardware, except polished rather than black. the head of the bolt and nut were slightly narrower than the hardware supplied with the sway bar, but a washer at both the head and nut (rather than just the nut) solved the problem. no squeaking anymore.
yea. ive got alot of extra washers for you if you want them.
bolts were $2.50/pair and loctite nuts were $.98/pair
they didnt stock much metric, so i got standard sizes. i think the thread size was 5/16"x10 and the bolt head looks just liek teh panducky hardware, except polished rather than black. the head of the bolt and nut were slightly narrower than the hardware supplied with the sway bar, but a washer at both the head and nut (rather than just the nut) solved the problem. no squeaking anymore.
bolts were $2.50/pair and loctite nuts were $.98/pair
they didnt stock much metric, so i got standard sizes. i think the thread size was 5/16"x10 and the bolt head looks just liek teh panducky hardware, except polished rather than black. the head of the bolt and nut were slightly narrower than the hardware supplied with the sway bar, but a washer at both the head and nut (rather than just the nut) solved the problem. no squeaking anymore.
the day i installed them i coated both the rubber bushings in silicon spray, as well as the perch so that i would have alittle play to slide the spring off of the bolt heads before i placed the entire cars wieght on the spring. that had no results.
i have since fixed my problem and went ot home depot and got some 18-8 grade bolts that looked like the ones in the panducky kit and installed them. problem solved.
but i am still going to try and get in touch with progressive to inform them they should sell their kits with updated hardware.
well to further prove my point, yes, this is another person who feels the design isnt the best. might not have said it in those words, but you need to get into a readin comprehension class if you cant figure that out.
alright, we all get it. you enjoy buying parts that are flawed and like to live with them. i expect quality when i buy from a quality company. **** off if you dont have any constructive input.
i have since fixed my problem and went ot home depot and got some 18-8 grade bolts that looked like the ones in the panducky kit and installed them. problem solved.
but i am still going to try and get in touch with progressive to inform them they should sell their kits with updated hardware.
well to further prove my point, yes, this is another person who feels the design isnt the best. might not have said it in those words, but you need to get into a readin comprehension class if you cant figure that out.
alright, we all get it. you enjoy buying parts that are flawed and like to live with them. i expect quality when i buy from a quality company. **** off if you dont have any constructive input.
Get Grade 8. There y'go. more constructive advice for you to ignore, and waste more time complaining about.
I offered plenty of constructive advice, but you were too interested in complaining to follow them. BTW, there is no "18-8 grade"- to meet DOT safety standards, automotive fasteners have to be Grade 8 which denotes hardness, temper, and structural strength. Your 18-8 merely means that the bolts are stainless steel, which are not Grade 8, and can be soft enough to bend or brittle enough to break.
Get Grade 8. There y'go. more constructive advice for you to ignore, and waste more time complaining about.
Get Grade 8. There y'go. more constructive advice for you to ignore, and waste more time complaining about.
im suprised that some one who would offer a dangerous solution such as that, would know or give a shit about DOT standards...but im happy you know somthing. IMO, im not as concerned that each bolt is grade 8 becuase i dont think there is enough stress on the sway bar to warrent that much bolt strength.
thank you for finally having some accurate information.
"..............and waste more time complaining about". How does a six year old like you own a Fit?
Please explain how using bolt heads as spacers to level the bottom of the springs, with the entire weight of the rear of the car on the spacers, is in any way dangerous. Apparently you don't know that the springs can't come out of the perches, regardless of what's under them, unless you lift the car and unfasten the shocks. Exactly how is that going to happen on the road?
Children think that complaining about a problem is the solution, because mommy and daddy make it all better. More advice- grow up.
Please explain how using bolt heads as spacers to level the bottom of the springs, with the entire weight of the rear of the car on the spacers, is in any way dangerous. Apparently you don't know that the springs can't come out of the perches, regardless of what's under them, unless you lift the car and unfasten the shocks. Exactly how is that going to happen on the road?
Children think that complaining about a problem is the solution, because mommy and daddy make it all better. More advice- grow up.
Last edited by manxman; Oct 17, 2008 at 10:28 AM.
"..............and waste more time complaining about". How does a six year old like you own a Fit?
Please explain how using bolt heads as spacers to level the bottom of the springs, with the entire weight of the rear of the car on the spacers, is in any way dangerous. Apparently you don't know that the springs can't come out of the perches, regardless of what's under them, unless you lift the car and unfasten the shocks. Exactly how is that going to happen on the road?
Children think that complaining about a problem is the solution, because mommy and daddy make it all better. More advice- grow up.
Please explain how using bolt heads as spacers to level the bottom of the springs, with the entire weight of the rear of the car on the spacers, is in any way dangerous. Apparently you don't know that the springs can't come out of the perches, regardless of what's under them, unless you lift the car and unfasten the shocks. Exactly how is that going to happen on the road?
Children think that complaining about a problem is the solution, because mommy and daddy make it all better. More advice- grow up.
i have never seen a car that the spring didnt sit on a full level surface, and im sure its like that for a reason. so, yes i know that the spring cannot just pop out, but at the same time, i feel it shoud be fully supported form underneath.
im dont bickering with you as i have since found the problem, solved the problem, and contacted progress about the issue. when progress gets in touch with me and hopefully the issue on their end rather than forcing the consumer to fix the design flaw, i will post up the emails. im sure some consumer will apprecaite that some one here took the initaitive to solve the issue at the source rather than have to fix the manufacturers problem themselves.
i dont know what your trying to prove by throwing insults out. i ask for advice, you cannot provide reasonable solution, so you rather insult?....and you have the audacity call me a 6yr old? please grow up. i dont hold conversations with people that need to stoop to a childish level to make themselves feel they are correct.
thank you and have a nice day.
Last edited by NIGHTHAWKSI; Oct 17, 2008 at 10:54 AM.
Merchant / Group Buy Organizer ( non-certified )
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 121
From: Cumberland, Md
Check your spring orientation
On some brand of springs, you can set the spring in the pocket so it does not sit on the rear sway bar bolt heads. You may be able to do the same...just rotate the springs in the pocket ( jack it up to take the load of the spring and you may have to take the shock loose to do so).
I hope this helps.
Tony D
I hope this helps.
Tony D
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,316
From: Chicago, IL
Ok. After reading through about 3 pages of this thread, I'm tired and don't feel like going onward lol.
Can anyone tell me what size the holes on the lower spring perch are? The holes on my bar measured at 1/2" but the holes on the perch are smaller. I thought about drilling out the holes on the perch to 1/2" but I'd like to avoid that.
Also, is there any kind of sleeve/adapter that I can slide over the bolt once it is through the spring perch to make it increase in diameter up to 1/2"? I'd like everything to be as snug as possible.
Thanks
Can anyone tell me what size the holes on the lower spring perch are? The holes on my bar measured at 1/2" but the holes on the perch are smaller. I thought about drilling out the holes on the perch to 1/2" but I'd like to avoid that.
Also, is there any kind of sleeve/adapter that I can slide over the bolt once it is through the spring perch to make it increase in diameter up to 1/2"? I'd like everything to be as snug as possible.
Thanks
Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 431
From: Marietta, GA
It would be more effective if mounted to a Fit with the c-pillar to tower crossbar or a rollcage. I could see Ben's fit oversteering with the sway bar because there is too much structural flex happening above the chassis to kind of counteract the extra ridgid subframe with the rear axle and swaybar causing too much oversteer.
The forward momentum of the upper half of the hatch continues to move when the lower frame has improved tracking. Without any reinforcement to the upper half connecting to the lower frame of the car, the top back of the car is more or less disconnected to the lower rear causing the abrupt oversteer.
I am not sure what ben has for bracing in the rear, but this is just speculation and I would think it would only benifit with rollcage type reinforcement. Swaybars Rock!
The forward momentum of the upper half of the hatch continues to move when the lower frame has improved tracking. Without any reinforcement to the upper half connecting to the lower frame of the car, the top back of the car is more or less disconnected to the lower rear causing the abrupt oversteer.
I am not sure what ben has for bracing in the rear, but this is just speculation and I would think it would only benifit with rollcage type reinforcement. Swaybars Rock!
I have my Fit braced front-back-up and down! Then do I actually need a rear antisway bar? The car rides kinda harsh now; I guess the 17's contribute to that. You know I actually use this car for car pooling! And my passengers do get lulled off when going home so I guess the ride isn't that harsh?!
But no lowering since the tyres now look great and fill in the visual thing in the wheel wells.
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,316
From: Chicago, IL
Does anyone know what size bolts are needed to install the rear sway bar?
The holes on the bar are 1/2" but the holes on the rear lower spring perch are smaller.
Anyone? Bueller?
The holes on the bar are 1/2" but the holes on the rear lower spring perch are smaller.
Anyone? Bueller?
After reading on this thread, I have to agree with NIGHTHAWKSI..the bolts from Progress should not interfere whatsoever with the functioning of other parts in the car, specially the springs. The springs should seat without any problems, this is a bad design from Progress and/or they obviously missed it. I have owned Progress RSBs before on both two previous generation Civics and never had a problem; the bars worked great. I do like Progress, but this bar and its hardware DO have a design flaw that needs to be fixed.
So what do you expect, that ppl only buy Progress springs? If you release an aftermarket product, it should work with the parts around it that serve a common purporse, not interfere with their function.
im running mine with panducky bolts. If you need panducky style bolts i can get them.
Last edited by redrumm; May 9, 2009 at 04:20 PM.
also, i dont have any issues with my skunk2 coilovers and rubbing noises
I'd rather do this than weld the bar to the car..let me know how I can get some of these bolts from you. I did some research and appearently Panducky closed.