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lug nuts for RPF1's?

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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 10:48 PM
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lug nuts for RPF1's?

Hey just wondering what lugs you guys have for your rpf1's/replicas? Tried mounting mine on with the stock lugs today and they were scratching the little hole part..

Tried looking in the shoes thread.
 
Old Sep 11, 2010 | 11:31 PM
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I have the original style RPF1s and use run of the mill cheap after market chrome plated acorn nuts... The stock nuts and wheels have a rounded taper while after market nuts and wheels have a straight conical taper and distribute the surface contact properly when used together... Using the wrong nut wheel combo and there is likely to be problems in time... I wish I could recall the thread size but I am at a loss right now... The thread is the same as stock of course and the nuts are even available at the auto parts stores in the bogus little town that is closest to where I live and they are dirt cheap on EBay... They aren't as aesthetic in appearance as the aluminum ones or as light but they will hold up better and are not as costly... There are good quality 6061 aluminum alloy racing style nuts on EBay at good prices also... I might even get some aluminum ones for myself sometime for some fancy wheels I recently picked up.
 
Old Sep 11, 2010 | 11:33 PM
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Thread size is M12x1.5.

If you do any hard driving, I strongly suggest looking for STEEL lugnuts with the aftermarket conical tapered heads, if you want them to last. Aluminum succumbs to the heat and will give you loose threads in time.
 
Old Sep 11, 2010 | 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Type 100
Thread size is M12x1.5.

If you do any hard driving, I strongly suggest looking for STEEL lugnuts with the aftermarket conical tapered heads, if you want them to last. Aluminum succumbs to the heat and will give you loose threads in time.
Type 100 to the rescue with good advice again as he commonly is.... Man I keep trying to rep you but I guess I will have to start repping people I don't want to so they will let me rep you again.... I always like the way and what you post.
 
Old Sep 12, 2010 | 01:41 AM
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Awesome, thanks for the info!
 
Old Sep 12, 2010 | 03:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Type 100
Thread size is M12x1.5.

If you do any hard driving, I strongly suggest looking for STEEL lugnuts with the aftermarket conical tapered heads, if you want them to last. Aluminum succumbs to the heat and will give you loose threads in time.
Do Muteki lugs fit into that Steel Lugnuts category? Or would it have to be something more expensive?
 
Old Sep 12, 2010 | 05:47 AM
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McGard SplineDrive lugs, got the installation kit 65457
 
Old Sep 12, 2010 | 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by j1nNju1c3
Do Muteki lugs fit into that Steel Lugnuts category? Or would it have to be something more expensive?
Haven't seen Mutekis, but are they marketed as lightweight? If so they're probably aluminum.

Project Kics has steel lugs. Mine are plain old Kyo-Ei lugnuts with their Bull-Lock wheel locks. Where I come from, the Kyo-Ei steel nuts cost about 1/3 the price of an equivalent aluminum lugnut + wheel lock set of 20 sold by Work or RAYS.

Correction:
Checked th
 

Last edited by Type 100; Sep 12, 2010 at 11:44 PM.
Old Sep 13, 2010 | 01:31 AM
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Just looked up the Kyo Ei bull lock on ebay and they're about the same price as the Muteki lugs and they're both lightweight (that's what it said on the statement for both lug nuts atleast)

So should I get the Kyo Ei??
 
Old Sep 13, 2010 | 04:22 AM
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For some reason my previous post got truncated...weird.

Anyway both Muteki and Kyo-Ei should be good. Muteki seems to have the advantage of being a "lightweight" lugnut that's still made out of steel and not aluminum. I have no personal experience with them though.

Kyo-Ei lugnuts and Bull-Lock wheel locks, I've used for quite a while. If you don't mind a plain matte black finish, they're good lugnuts that stand up well to abuse.
 
Old Sep 13, 2010 | 09:53 AM
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I was wondering the same about your post lol.

Anyway, thanks for the input. I was looking at Project Kics on ebay and wow, they are expensive, but from what I read, a really good theft deterrent (from what I read anyway) and they look better than the Mutekis I want. We'll see budget wise which one I get.

+rep!
 
Old Sep 13, 2010 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by j1nNju1c3
I was wondering the same about your post lol.

Anyway, thanks for the input. I was looking at Project Kics on ebay and wow, they are expensive, but from what I read, a really good theft deterrent (from what I read anyway) and they look better than the Mutekis I want. We'll see budget wise which one I get.

+rep!
They even have those in a funky rainbow-like finish, if you're into that kind of bling (and have the cash). Check out the Project Kics Neo Chro lugnut line. Positively trippy.
 
Old Sep 14, 2010 | 01:25 AM
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Yea I've seen those alot actually, and not really a fan of them, even though they look good. I might go for the Muteki sr48 open end lug nuts color Purple! To match my "Sarap Buhay" decal
 
Old Sep 14, 2010 | 03:07 AM
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Originally Posted by j1nNju1c3
Yea I've seen those alot actually, and not really a fan of them, even though they look good. I might go for the Muteki sr48 open end lug nuts color Purple! To match my "Sarap Buhay" decal
I was looking at those too, what's the difference between open and closed ends?
 
Old Sep 14, 2010 | 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by gnarlyj3rick
I was looking at those too, what's the difference between open and closed ends?
Closed-end lugnuts are very similar to what stock ones are. They're sealed at one end.

Open-end lugnuts are open at both ends, so the wheel studs are visible from the outside. Theoretically if your wheel studs were really, really long, you would use open-ended lugnuts so that you could torque them down real tight, right through the lugnut.

One downside to open-end lugnuts is rust, unfortunately.
 
Old Sep 14, 2010 | 06:38 AM
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If I was to use the aluminum nuts I would want the long studs too, but then you have canceled out whatever weight savings the aluminum nuts give you and your wallet is thinner... I think I will just forget about using aluminum lug nuts since they don't have any weight advantage if they are used properly with longer studs and then it takes forever to remove and replace them since you can't use an air wrench with out messing them up.
 
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