Engine mount or clutch delay
#1
Engine mount or clutch delay
Hey guys
Any seasoned manual drivers that have noticed the following with your GE fit?
When shifting aggressively and quickly from 1st to 2nd, there is a noticeable thud when second gear is engaged. Makes me wonder if the clutch delay is to blame or it's because of the engine mounts.
Note that I'm not flat shifting nor kicking the clutch, just shifting quickly at higher RPMS.
Anyone else get this? I've read that if the engine mounts get bad enough it's easily noticeable but mine only does it when shifting aggressively otherwise it's fine.
Any seasoned manual drivers that have noticed the following with your GE fit?
When shifting aggressively and quickly from 1st to 2nd, there is a noticeable thud when second gear is engaged. Makes me wonder if the clutch delay is to blame or it's because of the engine mounts.
Note that I'm not flat shifting nor kicking the clutch, just shifting quickly at higher RPMS.
Anyone else get this? I've read that if the engine mounts get bad enough it's easily noticeable but mine only does it when shifting aggressively otherwise it's fine.
#2
I haven't noticed it, but this car's way underpowered compared to what I'd been running so I've been working the shifts differently than before. Once we get some dry pavement up here I'll see how it feels on a real launch.
#3
Mine's always done this with decent tires, I think it's the CDV. I could chirp the 1-2 on the OEM 175s though even with the delay, not power shifting or anything, I didn't really hear the thud then.
#4
Hmmmm
Fair enough, having spoken to a few mechanics during my valve clearance issues they have noted that the engine mounts on a GE are weak.
I suspect the torque rod is weak, theory being that on launches in the dry, the car wheel hops like no tomorrow indicating lots of engine movement. Also hard shifting makes it thud as well, I've got all season tires on it atm so grip is decent.
Fair enough, having spoken to a few mechanics during my valve clearance issues they have noted that the engine mounts on a GE are weak.
I suspect the torque rod is weak, theory being that on launches in the dry, the car wheel hops like no tomorrow indicating lots of engine movement. Also hard shifting makes it thud as well, I've got all season tires on it atm so grip is decent.
#6
Go under the car, remove torque rod. It can be removed as long as remaining two mounts are in good condition.
Tape one side off. Get hotglue gun, and fill it full. Make sure everything gets filled on the big end. Tape over glued end once cool to touch.
Flip over and fill any missed areas and also to smooth out surface so it doesnt decide to crack fast.
Once everything is cool to touch, wrap the ever living crap out of it with duct tape or electrical tape, and shove it back on the engine and subframe.
BAM a lot less wheel hop, better shifting feel, and potentially better clutch engagement since motoion isnt transferred as easily
Tape one side off. Get hotglue gun, and fill it full. Make sure everything gets filled on the big end. Tape over glued end once cool to touch.
Flip over and fill any missed areas and also to smooth out surface so it doesnt decide to crack fast.
Once everything is cool to touch, wrap the ever living crap out of it with duct tape or electrical tape, and shove it back on the engine and subframe.
BAM a lot less wheel hop, better shifting feel, and potentially better clutch engagement since motoion isnt transferred as easily
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trashercan
1st Generation (GD 01-08)
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09-25-2009 03:42 PM