When I add electrical accessories, I like to avoid messing with the car's wiring. Instead, I run a wire from the positive battery terminal, through an existing grommet, and connect it to a separate fuse panel under the dash. Attaching it with Velcro makes it easy to access it. Of course, I have a fuse at the battery connection. I usually have one panel that's always hot and one that runs off the car's fuse panel through the ignition switch. Local stores didn't have fuse panels, so I ordered from Amazon. The socket will be for the dash cam.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CQMQL9L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&ps c=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B074W5S14V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&ps c=1

 

You can also use the accessories connector on the fuse panel.

Depending of your car's generation it cas be a different location but all Hondas use the same principle. You add a connector to an ampty slot on the fuse panel and then you add the fuse in the fuse box. This is the cleanest installation you can do.

 

That's good for one or two items, but I have six things connected to the two fuse panels in my car. They're not all going at the same time, and they're generally not high draw, but I'd rather have one fuse per item, than rely on a single fuse in the car's fuse panel. Some are always hot, and some are controlled by the ignition switch.

I have three 12v outlets, dash cam, GPS, under-dash LEDs.

 

Interesting take on your solution to adding more power. I am using an add-on fuse for my Fit, connected to the Accessory position in the fuse box. The tap, along with the Accessory socket, provide juice for my GPS, dash + rear cam, LEDs, seat heater, and phone charger. My main reason was simplicity (or perhaps laziness) of the installation - I did not want to run a wire through the firewall to the battery if there was no need. What device do you need to connect to always be "Hot" in your car?

 

How do you have five things connected to that one "Accessory socket"?

Running a wire through a grommet in the firewall is easy. Get something pointy and poke a hole in the grommet. I did this in 2014, and I think I taped the electric wire to a wire coat hanger. I was able to poke the hole and then continue through with the wire.

The always Hot connection comes from the battery positive terminal, runs through the firewall grommet, and to the fuse panel.

 

Having each item fused is a great and safe way to do things.

You can use a tap a fuse for switched items that draw little current (like my dashcam and compass mirror that require a trigger to activate).

For that larger fuse block in your 2nd link, you can run a larger power wire through the firewall and connect it under the steering wheel along with a good ground nearby in this location.

Running the wire through the firewall isn't that tough. It's just a bit annoying and you need to contort yourself under the steering wheel. I should know as I've done this at least 4 times. Better to run all the wiring that you plan to run in 1 shot.

You have to undo the electrical tape on the wiring bundle that you'll see through the firewall and under the steering wheel. Do this in really nice and warm weather! It might help to remove the air box so you have a bit more room and reach. The pain is trying to re-tape everything up in the engine bay.

If you are going to connect directly to the battery, then run a resettable fuse. This is just one of the few that I have :
Pay attention to the gauge of wiring that you plan on using when using a resettable fuse. I recommend a resettable fuse because you can instantly turn the circuit off if you need to work on something.

I'd also recommend using some sort of wiring cover like a loom in the engine bay so that any movement an vibration do not directly eat into the wire sheath.

If you have the tiny 151R battery, then you have lots of room to work in. If you have a 51R like me, you have much less room to work in.

Good luck. Don't cheap out on wiring or wiring connectors, unless you want your car to catch on fire.

 

I have a multi-outlet connected to the cigarette/accessory socket which allows for three 12v connections as well as two USB charging cables. The LED lights were attached using a fuse-tap add-on doodad.

 

Good post!

When I connect to the battery, I use heavy gauge wire (I forget the number) which I buy in 25' rolls, and I have an inline fuse at the battery. I use zip ties to secure the wire all along the way.

I wish I had know about the larger battery when I bought a replacement. My battery was totally dead one morning, so I bought a new one. It took the NAPA guy three attempts to find the right battery, so finding a larger one was out of the question. I think the battery went dead because the hatch didn't close completely, and about five LEDs in the trunk were lit for two days. I'm surprised that would totally drain the battery. So now I have a spare battery that I have to keep charged.