So, I got my ultragauge set up and customized. For my 2008 Honda Fit Sport (Manual Trans) I have it set as a 10.8 gallon fuel tank and of course 1.5 L Motor. I mounted it on the drivers side small corner window, like the photos above. I hid the cable in the rubber molding and ran it down and tucked it under the dash. I have documented the gauges that's supported by my vehicle and made an excel spreadsheet of how I have them ordered to display.

Here are my settings: https://spreadsheets.google.com/spre...mc&output=html


Anybody have any tips or would like to share their settings also?

Here are the gauges available to the 2008 Honda Fit

Gauge Description
* Percent Engine Load
* Engine coolant temperature
* Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1
* Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1
* Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) PSI
* RPM
* MPH
* Ignition Timing Advance
* Intake Air Temperature
* Absolute Throttle Position Percentage
* Bank 1 Oxygen Sensor 2 Voltage
* ECM RUN TIME
* Distance traveled with Check Engine Light on
* Commanded EGR Flow Percent
* Commanded EGR Flow Error Percent
* Commanded Evaporative purge Percent
* Fuel Level Percent
* Number of warm-ups Since Check Engine Light cleared
* Distance traveled since Check Engine Light cleared
* Evaporative System Vapor Pressure
* Barometric Pressure (inHg)
* Catalytic Converter Bank 1 Sensor 1 Temperature
* Battery Voltage
* Relative Throttle Position Percentage
* Absolute Throttle Position Percentage
* Accelerator Position 1 Percentage
* Accelerator Position 2 Percentage
* Commanded Throttle Position Percentage
* Mass Air Flow 2, Calibrated/Calculated
* Instantaneous Miles Per Gallon (MPG)
* Average Miles Per Gallon (MPG)
* Average Miles Per Hour (MPH)
* Average Gallon Per Hour (GPH) - general
* Run Time - general
* Distance - general
* Fuel Used - general
* Intantaneous Gallons Per Hour (GPH)
* Fuel Tank Gallons Remaining
* Distance to Empty(DTE)
* Time to Empty (TTE)
* Volumetric Efficiency
* Average MPH - trip
* Average MPG - trip
* Fuel Used Gallons- trip
* Average Gallon Per Hour (GPH) - trip
* Run Time -trip
* Distance - trip
* Oil Distance
* Service Distance
* UltraGauge Temperature

 

Since you dont have a MAF there are a few setting that dont work but do you have fuel trims available? I use the fuel trims and the cat temp with the Maf.

 

Yeah, I'm bummed that I don't have the MAF and won't be getting an extremely accurate MPG reading. Though, I do want to tweak it down so that it's as good as it can be. I do have the fuel trims available. Short Term and Long Term Fuel Trim. Why do you find those gauges interesting?

 

Fuel trims is what the techs look at when diagnosing problems in the car. Their scan gauges record in real time the whole cycle where as the ultra gauge just gives a snap shot of a second ago but its still fun to watch. The cat temp I just look to see what the temp is at cruise which should be around 1200 to 1400 degrees. Under full throttle the highest I seen was 1450 which is still OK the operating range is 1200-1600 any hotter and damage could occur especially as high as 2000 degrees. I am finding that my UG mpg is off 6 percent of what gas I use and even when I correct it I still get 40 mpg at an average speed of 42 mph. I drive mostly highway but the city brings the speed down 25 mph.

 

You can tune in the MPG read out.

Next time you fill the tank go to:
MENU - Vehicle Setup... Calibration... Calibrate MPG/Fuel

You enter the number of gallons used to fill the tank. It doesn't need to be a complete fill-up, what you're doing is telling the UG the amount of fuel you actually used during the last MPG calculation.

Do this a few times to get accuracy.

Once you do that the 'calibration factor' is shown.

For my Fit it's 1.13
Curious to see what others have.

 

Can someone post their normal FWT readings? I just got my scangauge, and driving around, it will be around 175-185. During stop-go driving, it will reach up to 217 with the A/C fan kicking at 213. Radiator fan isn't working in my car so I don't know if this is normal.

 

I believe both fans should come on w/ temp above 199F. I see temps to be always below this - 184 seems to be max I've seen.

Your A/C fan seems to be carrying the load - check connections on rad fan first step to getting 'er going.

 

Is this better than the Scanguage II I'm using ATM? If so I might just pick one up when they support Metric.

 

I need to calibrate my UG... I think I have the mileage calibrated close enough to the Fit's odo... but the gas usage is off.

The UG reported having .77 gals left from "Full." And I haven't "over" pumping lately, so on my pump, I should've put about 9.8 gals, but instead, only 9.3.

Hum...

On another note, I mentioned this in another thread (I forget which, I spam alot).

Is the UG pulling fuel usage data from the ECU, which in turn is pulling actual "fuel injected" data? Or is one or the other doing estimates based on something else? I ask this because, well, the fuel usage is off, obviously. And secondly, I was hoping that coasting in gear would use less fuel than coasting in neutral... but it didn't.

 

Goobers What's your 'calibration factor'?

I heard from polaski in another thread that he's seeing an issue with the MPG, his calibration factor is at .924 to get the MPG close. I pointed him over here, maybe he'll chime in.

Took me a while to calibrate - I was seeing the same thing you are with the fuel level. I did my fill-up check carefully at the same station/pump three consecutive times, then set the Level Sender Mode to Smart.

Interesting thing is I need to tell it when I fill-up, it doesn't sense it???

I got this from UG support: MPG Accuracy

The other thing to check is the Fuel Cut-off - our Fit's have it.

 

Just changed it, factor is 1.046 for gas pumped and 1.018 for mileage driven.

The trip MPG average closely matches my lifetime now.

Yeah, I wish the UG had the ability to actually sense the fuel level... instead of having to hold up every time i fill a tank. But I guess that would require the Fit to report a more accurate digital level in the first place.

 

It will sense the fuel levels. Try setting the MENU>Fuel Menu>Level Sender Mode> to Enabled and see what you get. I'm going to go back to that, but in that mode the level is automatically sense and displayed. Issue I had was it didn't show the correct gallons when I filled the tank. Maybe with an accurate calibration it will be better - going to ty it and see.

 

I had it set to "Smart," just changed to enabled... lets see how it goes.

 

Mine picks up on fuel fills on Smart every time as long as I drive 200 miles after the previous fillup. There's a setting to change the fuel percent to arm the auto-fill; I changed it to something like 70% instead of the default. 50% on my car has the needle 3/8" under the half mark. (If I fill with the needle on the right side of the 'E', I have just under 4 gallons left.)

Calibration on my GD3 in under 1.00. First 4 tanks had it down to around .92, which was close around town; adding another 500+ miles this weekend on the highway had me move it up a little to around .95 to stay correct. It'll probably read low again now that my summer trip is over.

I've had the fuel cut-off programmed in since day one.

I like the cumulative gallons on the calibration. I can run a whole bunch of tanks if I want and make it really close.

A/C sucks the gas! Watching it drop from 50 mpg to 38 when the compressor starts kinda hurts.

Drove 515 miles this weekend, first tank was 47.5 mpg, and overall was 44.0 mpg (both calculated by quantity pumped in), not bad for cruise only 66 mph on the interstate. Indicated was 46.3 so it wasn't too far off. It would have been better but it got really hot and I got stuck in standstill traffic for a LONG time, and the A/C had to come on and drain my second tank.

Accelerating at 80-85% load under 3000 rpm is the real key to mileage on this car. BIG difference. The cruise will go straight to 100% if you let it...

Also, long term fuel trims up to +5.6xx, that's kind of weird considering the mileage it's been getting. Even after I changed the calibration a bit, 66 mph on level ground for at least 15 minutes and it'll push timing to 32-32.5 and pull load down to 51-54%, instant mileage is 46-50 easy, more with traffic.

 

So you're setting the low threshold above the point where you usually fill-up. This then arms the sensor detect and it works. I'm gonna try that. When you go below that setting does the UG warn you? I seem to remember it doing so and that's why I changed it.

 

hum... lower the high threshold? I'll check that out.

 

Nah, it doesn't warn you that you've gone under the fuel fill arming threshold at all. A couple times I've had to hold the up button for 5 sec to manually do the fill but that's because I only put in less than $10 to make it full before a trip.

There's actually two thresholds... I forgot about that. The high threshold variable is in case your computer doesn't report 100% on a full tank. The default 98% works well. Don't put the two settings too close together, it'll rearm and reset all by itself from the sloshing LOL

You know it's going to work when your iMPG and avgMPG show "err" right after you fill... it's about to reset for you automatically, just wait for it, takes 5-10 seconds

So in a nutshell, low at 70%, high at 98%... as your fuel level goes down, when it gets down to 70% it starts waiting for a refill, and as soon as the computer gives it 3-4 concurrent readings of 98% or more it'll reset the gauge to show a full tank.

If you set the fuel level to "Enabled" it will estimate both your distance to empty and fuel in gallons based solely on the sender's readings, and in the case of the former also your lifetime average MPG. "Smart" keeps the sender's data for auto-fill, but bases the DTE and fuel level (gallons) on it's accumulated estimated fuel use. The sender tracks linearly on the Fit so I suppose it doesn't matter which you use as long as you calibrate right, but "Smart" should be closer in the long run.

 

Computes airflow the same way the engine computer on our speed-density cars does - manifold pressure, intake temperature, and engine speed. From that you can calculate how much air is going through the motor at any given time.

Since when running closed loop it's supposed to be stoichiometric, the fuel used is always a function of airflow. That's all there is to it - no injector reading, etc.

That's why any mpg gauge on a car will need a different calibration for someone who drives aggressively vs someone who drives economically. As soon as the engine goes open-loop in acceleration, all bets are off.

I'll ninja-edit something in: This car doesn't get its best mileage until you drive it a while. I mean, like an hour on a hot day. It takes THAT long for the mpg numbers to stop going up! So those driving short trips, <30 miles, there's a little something if you're not getting the mileage other people are reporting and you've already tried everything else.

 

Help me here, open loop under acceleration occurs why?

 

Open and closed loop refers to how the ECU is calculating fuel delivery.

Closed loop means it's constantly taking readings from the o2 sensors and using that to determine if the engine is running stoichiometrically. A typical 4-wire o2 sensor can only read narrowband - meaning it can only tell rich or lean but not how far either way outside a very narrow window. Because of this the computer is constantly bouncing back and forth between slightly rich and slightly lean to try to best keep the proper mixture.

Open loop means it can't read the o2 sensor for some reason - either the car is decelerating in gear and in DFCO meaning no fuel at all going in (as lean as it gets), or hard enough acceleration that the computer needs to richen the mixture to keep temps and knock in check so the motor doesn't grenade itself (constant rich condition). In the open loop acceleration condition the actual fuel ratio can very quite a bit - sometimes as lean as 13:1, sometimes as rich as 10.5:1, depending on the car, engine conditions, air temperature, so on and so forth. It can really be anywhere and there's no way to even have a clue without plug reading and a wideband o2. When there's enough throttle the ECU will ignore EVERYTHING except IAT, MAP, and the knock sensor and run the juice straight off the tables that Honda programmed in.

(side note, first gen insights had a wideband because it was necessary to run both closed loop and lean burn concurrently. Good luck ever calibrating an UG to that thing.)

On my GD3 it thinks it's running closed loop at 100% until I mash it even though the MAP is saying 14.xx psi so I don't wholly trust the loop indicator. Typically once you get into 13.xx psi or -2 inHg, however you want to think about it, you're going to start running into open loop real fast because the need for open loop is determined by the dynamic compression resulting from near-ambient manifold pressure.