Hi guys, I have a 2012 Honda Fit Sport. It's a second hand car and I haven't even driven it because the front brakes seizes and stops the car when they heat up and they heat up real quick so I'm unable to cover 3km. Checked brake pipes, master cylinder, abs motor and everything is fine. Can anyone help me with this problem? It's very frustrating I can't use the car. It's a sitting duck. Please mail possible cause or solutions to autoartsas@gmail.com or whatsapp me on +233245896446 thanks for your help.

 

 

 

Everything is NOT fine. Keep checking.



First you must establish if the problem is strictly mechanical, or if the hydraulic system is the problem:

Grab your tools, toss them in the car.
Probably need a 10mm wrench that fits the bleeders on the front calipers.
Find the jack and some stands.


Drive car until the brakes lock up.
Raise front of car quickly so tires are off the ground and brakes are still locked up.

Open a front brake bleeder (briefly, just enough to relieve pressure--- then close the bleeder..... a couple seconds should be long enough)
and see if relieving hydraulic pressure allows the brake to release and the wheel is free to spin.
Repeat for opposite wheel.



---If they are still locked up after opening the bleeders, it's a mechanical problem...probably stuck calipers.

---If the brakes released and wheels spin, further testing is required to find the cause.



Is the rubber gasket in the brake reservoir cap all swollen and mushy?

 

Thanks for taking time. I tried driving it and when that happened I opened the brake hose and the tires were freed up. I tried driving the car with hand brake only without touching brakes and it drives ok but as soon as I start tapping brakes the tires seizes and when the happens traction control light is permanently on the dash

 

Need to know why this is on, see if it is related to the current problem. Got codes?

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I asked about the rubber gasket in the reservoir cap for a reason. Is the rubber swollen and mushy? Does the brake fluid feel greasy and slick?

Petroleum (oil) dumped into the brake fluid ruins everything made of rubber and will cause the problem you describe. The seals inside the master cylinder are the first to be ruined and will keep the brakes applied. If someone did this, just stop there for a minute and skip the rest of this post, you found the first part of the problems.

Sounds like a hydraulic problem. Hydraulic diagnosis should start at the source, the area of the master cylinder, then work your way outward toward the wheels from there.

Is the brake light switch adjusted in too far, causing (A) the pedal to be slightly applied all the time, and (B) the brake lights to delay turning on until after the brake system is pressurized?

Next would be to get the brakes to act up (lock up) again then remove the nuts holding the master cylinder to the booster, and pull it away from the booster far enough to be assured the internal pushrod is not keeping the master cylinder applied. (mechanical fault, adjust the internal pushrod ---commonly overlooked during master cylinder replacement--- or adjust the pedal link)

Next is to loosen each brake line fitting at the master cylinder, see if wheels free up. (If the brakes free up, the master is the problem)
Next is loosen fittings at the ABS unit. (If the brakes free up, the ABS is the problem)
Then at the brake hoses.

 

Gasket rubber isn't swollen and brake fluid isn't greasy. I just took the master cylinder with the servo out completely. I'm installing another one to see if it solves the problem. Yesterday I changed the abs motor and still the problem was present.

 

Thanks a lot guys especially @ezone for your assistance. Replaced the master cylinder and servo and brakes are back to normal. Thanks Guys