The blower motor on my 90 Accord just went at the perfect time --
snowstorm, not predicted to get above freezing until at least mid-month.
I got in yesterday and noticed that 'whiff of ozone' smell
characteristic of a failing motor, and sure enough, the air stopped
coming shortly thereafter. At least when the car is moving fast enough
the flow-through gets some warm air out the vents.

I've just started looking at replacement parts, and it seems like I can
get either just the motor or a whole new blower assembly. Which makes
more sense? What are the issues involved?

 

the motor probably will not come with the fan attached. If you are
confident you can remove the blower fan without damage then just get the
motor. These things usually come off easily with a little wd-40 and
patience.

For the quickest replacment get the entire assembly and swap.


"Pete from Boston" <masspete@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:4225f0e3$0$559$b45e6eb0@senator-bedfellow.mit.edu...
> The blower motor on my 90 Accord just went at the perfect time --
> snowstorm, not predicted to get above freezing until at least mid-month. I
> got in yesterday and noticed that 'whiff of ozone' smell characteristic of
> a failing motor, and sure enough, the air stopped coming shortly
> thereafter. At least when the car is moving fast enough the flow-through
> gets some warm air out the vents.
>
> I've just started looking at replacement parts, and it seems like I can
> get either just the motor or a whole new blower assembly. Which makes more
> sense? What are the issues involved?

 

On Wed, 02 Mar 2005 12:01:20 -0500, Pete from Boston
<masspete@my-deja.com> wrote:

>The blower motor on my 90 Accord just went at the perfect time --
>snowstorm, not predicted to get above freezing until at least mid-month.
> I got in yesterday and noticed that 'whiff of ozone' smell
>characteristic of a failing motor, and sure enough, the air stopped
>coming shortly thereafter.

Are you quite sure it's the motor and not the motor speed reducing
resistor? That's in the air plenum behind the glove compartment. Might
be wise to check that before ripping the world apart.

 

John Ings wrote:
> On Wed, 02 Mar 2005 12:01:20 -0500, Pete from Boston
> <masspete@my-deja.com> wrote:
>
>
>>The blower motor on my 90 Accord just went at the perfect time --
>>snowstorm, not predicted to get above freezing until at least mid-month.
>> I got in yesterday and noticed that 'whiff of ozone' smell
>>characteristic of a failing motor, and sure enough, the air stopped
>>coming shortly thereafter.
>
>
> Are you quite sure it's the motor and not the motor speed reducing
> resistor? That's in the air plenum behind the glove compartment. Might
> be wise to check that before ripping the world apart.

Nope, not at all. I got a lot of opinions/stories that indicated my
symptoms were consistent with the motor going. I'll look into this resistor.

 

On Wed, 02 Mar 2005 14:05:16 -0500, Pete from Boston
<masspete@my-deja.com> wrote:

>>>The blower motor on my 90 Accord just went at the perfect time --
>>>snowstorm, not predicted to get above freezing until at least mid-month.
>>> I got in yesterday and noticed that 'whiff of ozone' smell
>>>characteristic of a failing motor, and sure enough, the air stopped
>>>coming shortly thereafter.
>>
>>
>> Are you quite sure it's the motor and not the motor speed reducing
>> resistor? That's in the air plenum behind the glove compartment. Might
>> be wise to check that before ripping the world apart.
>
>Nope, not at all. I got a lot of opinions/stories that indicated my
>symptoms were consistent with the motor going. I'll look into this resistor.

Might be wise. If it is the motor, it may have overloaded and burnt
out the resistor, which is just a few coils of resistance wire mounted
on a plastic block that sticks into the airstream in the plenum.

 

John Ings wrote:
>
> Might be wise. If it is the motor, it may have overloaded and burnt
> out the resistor, which is just a few coils of resistance wire mounted
> on a plastic block that sticks into the airstream in the plenum.

which would likely have the same smell.

 

"Pete from Boston" <masspete@my-deja.com> wrote in message

> > Might be wise to check that before ripping the world apart.

> Nope, not at all. I got a lot of opinions/stories that indicated my
> symptoms were consistent with the motor going. I'll look into this
> resistor.

If I remember correctly, you will find two pin connector right at the
bottom of the motor to supply power to.

If I remember correctly, the motor has brushes you could snap on
snap off. If not then you could always try to clean the
communtator. They can gum up in the winter climates.

 

Pete from Boston wrote:
| John Ings wrote:
|| On Wed, 02 Mar 2005 12:01:20 -0500, Pete from Boston
|| <masspete@my-deja.com> wrote:
||
||
||| The blower motor on my 90 Accord just went at the perfect time --
||| snowstorm, not predicted to get above freezing until at least
||| mid-month. I got in yesterday and noticed that 'whiff of ozone'
||| smell characteristic of a failing motor, and sure enough, the air
||| stopped coming shortly thereafter.
||
||
|| Are you quite sure it's the motor and not the motor speed reducing
|| resistor? That's in the air plenum behind the glove compartment.
|| Might
|| be wise to check that before ripping the world apart.
|
| Nope, not at all. I got a lot of opinions/stories that indicated my
| symptoms were consistent with the motor going. I'll look into this
| resistor.

The highest level of airflow goes from 12V through the motor directly to
ground, no resistors involved. Even if all of them in the pack are blown,
the max level will still work.

 

tomb wrote:
> Pete from Boston wrote:
> | John Ings wrote:
> || On Wed, 02 Mar 2005 12:01:20 -0500, Pete from Boston
> || <masspete@my-deja.com> wrote:
> ||
> ||
> ||| The blower motor on my 90 Accord just went at the perfect time --
> ||| snowstorm, not predicted to get above freezing until at least
> ||| mid-month. I got in yesterday and noticed that 'whiff of ozone'
> ||| smell characteristic of a failing motor, and sure enough, the air
> ||| stopped coming shortly thereafter.
> ||
> ||
> || Are you quite sure it's the motor and not the motor speed reducing
> || resistor? That's in the air plenum behind the glove compartment.
> || Might
> || be wise to check that before ripping the world apart.
> |
> | Nope, not at all. I got a lot of opinions/stories that indicated my
> | symptoms were consistent with the motor going. I'll look into this
> | resistor.
>
> The highest level of airflow goes from 12V through the motor directly to
> ground, no resistors involved. Even if all of them in the pack are blown,
> the max level will still work.

On the contrary, I do get some airflow at a very low rate. If there's
any difference between the high and low settings it isn't readily
apparent. Both produce about what would usually come from the lowest
setting.

There's a new sound, now, too, coming from someplace hard to peg in the
right half of the dash, a sort of whirring when the blower is on.
Something not spinning right.

I'll have to pull out the Haynes and the tools this weekend and have a
look in there.

 

On Thu, 03 Mar 2005 11:35:13 -0500, Pete from Boston
<masspete@my-deja.com> wrote:

>On the contrary, I do get some airflow at a very low rate. If there's
>any difference between the high and low settings it isn't readily
>apparent. Both produce about what would usually come from the lowest
>setting.

You might accomplish a cheap fix by disassembling the motor and
lubing its bearings.

 

Can you get the motor out without removing the evaporator?


"John Ings" <nodamned@spam.org> wrote in message
news:tehe21dslqse3jvr8195nl4p09quav1i3q@4ax.com...
> On Thu, 03 Mar 2005 11:35:13 -0500, Pete from Boston
> <masspete@my-deja.com> wrote:
>
>>On the contrary, I do get some airflow at a very low rate. If there's
>>any difference between the high and low settings it isn't readily
>>apparent. Both produce about what would usually come from the lowest
>>setting.
>
> You might accomplish a cheap fix by disassembling the motor and
> lubing its bearings.
>
>

 

All this time speculating on here and you could have it apart by now and
determine what is bad. Everything here is pure speculation and won't fix a
thing.......


"Pete from Boston" <masspete@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:42273c42$0$566$b45e6eb0@senator-bedfellow.mit.edu...
> tomb wrote:
>> Pete from Boston wrote:
>> | John Ings wrote:
>> || On Wed, 02 Mar 2005 12:01:20 -0500, Pete from Boston
>> || <masspete@my-deja.com> wrote:
>> ||
>> ||
>> ||| The blower motor on my 90 Accord just went at the perfect time --
>> ||| snowstorm, not predicted to get above freezing until at least
>> ||| mid-month. I got in yesterday and noticed that 'whiff of ozone'
>> ||| smell characteristic of a failing motor, and sure enough, the air
>> ||| stopped coming shortly thereafter.
>> ||
>> ||
>> || Are you quite sure it's the motor and not the motor speed reducing
>> || resistor? That's in the air plenum behind the glove compartment.
>> || Might
>> || be wise to check that before ripping the world apart.
>> |
>> | Nope, not at all. I got a lot of opinions/stories that indicated my
>> | symptoms were consistent with the motor going. I'll look into this
>> | resistor.
>>
>> The highest level of airflow goes from 12V through the motor directly to
>> ground, no resistors involved. Even if all of them in the pack are blown,
>> the max level will still work.
>
> On the contrary, I do get some airflow at a very low rate. If there's any
> difference between the high and low settings it isn't readily apparent.
> Both produce about what would usually come from the lowest setting.
>
> There's a new sound, now, too, coming from someplace hard to peg in the
> right half of the dash, a sort of whirring when the blower is on.
> Something not spinning right.
>
> I'll have to pull out the Haynes and the tools this weekend and have a
> look in there.
>
>

 

This raises my next question. I have the blower retaining nuts all off,
but there doesn't appears to be room to pull the flanges off all the
bolts to unseat the blower and get it down. Is it possible to do this
without removing more than the two far right dash screws? I can't
really see what's holding it back. I could remove the evaporator
(really don't want to), but that's not in the direction of movement I'm
having a problem with.

I've also removed the bottom cover, though that's mostly just given me
a better handhold.

Lots of people have said "just play with it a while." I've played with
it a while. Maybe there's something specific someone has learned from
getting it out?