I'm curious. I did my first a few weeks ago on my '91 Civic Si, and so
far so good. I know you've got an Integra, but here's a few things I
thought I'd share:

I didn't go sttrictly OEM, but As I understand it I basically got the
same parts. I bought a Daikin/Exedy kit for my car, and the way I
understand it is that they are the OEM supplier (for Toyota and Nissan
too?).

I didn't have to do anything exotic to get the car high enough up off
the ground. My cheap 2 ton jackstands were tall enough to drop the
Tranny without a problem. I had an extra pair of hands when I dropped it
and put it back in place. If I had the means I would have weighed my
transaxle, but it was lighter than I expected. Definitely under 100
pounds, probably closer to 55-65 lbs. My little brother is stronger than
me, so I had him bench pressing the Tranny (to be on the safe side), and
I slid it off the dowel pins and helped guide it down.

When you put the transmission back on and you are using two people, make
sure both know whats going on and where what has to line up.
Communication is key here.

I did my rear main seal, it seemed like it was leaking a little, but it
could have been seepage up from my leaking oil pan gasket. I took the
whole holder off, which requires to have the oil pan off too. This made
carefully driving in the new seal a much less scarier process. Doing the
transmission oil seals with the tranny off was a pleasure, since I had
done them with the tranny on the car.

Access to the speedo cable was a pain in the ass. My Helm manual showed
the boot-covered clip-holding assembly in better detail in the Engine
Removal section.'

Resurfacing my flywheel was a little more pricy than I expected. It was
$40 US plus tax. I had a small town machine shop do it thats been in
business for quite a while, and so far my clutch feels good.

Have some degreaser and some rags/towels to clean up the inside of the
bell housing. Mine was a little oily, and of course coated in dust.

I enjoyed getting a glance at the bottom end of my engine when I had the
oil pan off. I've never taken a block apart before, but it looks like fun.

It might be nice to have a new boot for the place where the stick shift
rod goes into the tranny. Mine was torn a little, but I didn't have a
replacement (maybe your clutch is hydraulic?).

My A pipe was tricky to get off, but I didn't break any studs. I went in
with extra studs and new nuts to be safe. I just PB blastered and rapped
on the ends of the studs and the nuts a bit. I did have to hammer on a
1mm smaller socket than the nuts are sized for on one of the nuts
because it was so badly corroded.

Here was my one uncertainty. I remember that the end of the crankshaft
had a circulair depression between two of the bolt holes, and that the
back of the flywheel had a number (5?) of circluair depressions going
along a circumference on the back of the flywheel. I had not indexed the
flywheel to the crankshaft when I removed it, and my Helm manual made no
mention of a particular orientation. I can't remember how I put it back
on, as far as the depressions lining up a certain way, but I probably
did it in some symmetrical fashion. Does any one know what I'm talking
about, and if there is a certain way to do it?

Mark

 

Chopface <thename_is_slick@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:d8ll69$rgq$1@news.doit.wisc.edu:

> I'm curious. I did my first a few weeks ago on my '91 Civic Si, and so
> far so good. I know you've got an Integra, but here's a few things I
> thought I'd share:


No, haven't done it yet. 248,000 miles and it's still not slipping.

There's also the question of time, which for me is tight. When the time
comes I might just give it to my guy to do.


Did you have any problems getting the driveshafts out of the hubs? What did
you have to disassemble to do it?


>
> I didn't go sttrictly OEM, but As I understand it I basically got the
> same parts. I bought a Daikin/Exedy kit for my car, and the way I
> understand it is that they are the OEM supplier (for Toyota and Nissan
> too?).
>
> I didn't have to do anything exotic to get the car high enough up off
> the ground. My cheap 2 ton jackstands were tall enough to drop the
> Tranny without a problem.



How high would you say you had it?

Did you have to support the engine with a crane?



I had an extra pair of hands when I dropped
> it and put it back in place. If I had the means I would have weighed
> my transaxle, but it was lighter than I expected. Definitely under 100
> pounds, probably closer to 55-65 lbs



That's all? The one in my RWD '75 Corolla weighed about that much. Somehow
I expected more since the diff is in there too.



> My little brother is stronger
> than me, so I had him bench pressing the Tranny (to be on the safe
> side), and I slid it off the dowel pins and helped guide it down.
>
> When you put the transmission back on and you are using two people,
> make sure both know whats going on and where what has to line up.
> Communication is key here.


Would you say it would have been a lot more difficult putting it back by
yourself?


>
> I did my rear main seal, it seemed like it was leaking a little, but
> it could have been seepage up from my leaking oil pan gasket. I took
> the whole holder off, which requires to have the oil pan off too.



Hmm. Even more work.



> This
> made carefully driving in the new seal a much less scarier process.
> Doing the transmission oil seals with the tranny off was a pleasure,
> since I had done them with the tranny on the car.
>
> Access to the speedo cable was a pain in the ass. My Helm manual
> showed the boot-covered clip-holding assembly in better detail in the
> Engine Removal section.'
>
> Resurfacing my flywheel was a little more pricy than I expected. It
> was $40 US plus tax. I had a small town machine shop do it thats been
> in business for quite a while, and so far my clutch feels good.
>
> Have some degreaser and some rags/towels to clean up the inside of the
> bell housing. Mine was a little oily, and of course coated in dust.
>
> I enjoyed getting a glance at the bottom end of my engine when I had
> the oil pan off. I've never taken a block apart before, but it looks
> like fun.
>
> It might be nice to have a new boot for the place where the stick
> shift rod goes into the tranny. Mine was torn a little, but I didn't
> have a replacement (maybe your clutch is hydraulic?).



Cable.


>
> My A pipe was tricky to get off, but I didn't break any studs. I went
> in with extra studs and new nuts to be safe. I just PB blastered and
> rapped on the ends of the studs and the nuts a bit. I did have to
> hammer on a 1mm smaller socket than the nuts are sized for on one of
> the nuts because it was so badly corroded.


That's my one big worry. My A-pipe is original and is severely rusted (but
not making noise). This car is my daily-driver and I drive as part of my
job. I MUST have the finished when I start something. I can't just leave it
for a few days until I figure out what to do.


>
> Here was my one uncertainty. I remember that the end of the crankshaft
> had a circulair depression between two of the bolt holes, and that the
> back of the flywheel had a number (5?) of circluair depressions going
> along a circumference on the back of the flywheel. I had not indexed
> the flywheel to the crankshaft when I removed it, and my Helm manual
> made no mention of a particular orientation. I can't remember how I
> put it back on, as far as the depressions lining up a certain way, but
> I probably did it in some symmetrical fashion. Does any one know what
> I'm talking about, and if there is a certain way to do it?


Maybe those are balance drillings?


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

TeGGeR® wrote:
> Chopface <thename_is_slick@yahoo.com> wrote in
> news:d8ll69$rgq$1@news.doit.wisc.edu:
>
>
>>I'm curious. I did my first a few weeks ago on my '91 Civic Si, and so
>>far so good. I know you've got an Integra, but here's a few things I
>>thought I'd share:
>
>
>
> No, haven't done it yet. 248,000 miles and it's still not slipping.
>
> There's also the question of time, which for me is tight. When the time
> comes I might just give it to my guy to do.
>
>
> Did you have any problems getting the driveshafts out of the hubs? What did
> you have to disassemble to do it?

don't need the take the driveshafts out of the hubs, just the
transmission. if you pop the lower wishbone joint, and remove the
suspension fork [2 bolts] you have plenty of working room & enough
lateral swing from the top wishbone to pull the driveshafts way out of
the way. then bag them to keep out the dirt and hang them out of the
way with coathanger wire.

>
>
>
>>I didn't go sttrictly OEM, but As I understand it I basically got the
>>same parts. I bought a Daikin/Exedy kit for my car, and the way I
>>understand it is that they are the OEM supplier (for Toyota and Nissan
>>too?).
>>
>>I didn't have to do anything exotic to get the car high enough up off
>>the ground. My cheap 2 ton jackstands were tall enough to drop the
>>Tranny without a problem.
>
>
>
>
> How high would you say you had it?
>
> Did you have to support the engine with a crane?
>
>
>
> I had an extra pair of hands when I dropped
>
>>it and put it back in place. If I had the means I would have weighed
>>my transaxle, but it was lighter than I expected. Definitely under 100
>>pounds, probably closer to 55-65 lbs
>
>
>
>
> That's all? The one in my RWD '75 Corolla weighed about that much. Somehow
> I expected more since the diff is in there too.
>
>
>
>
>>My little brother is stronger
>>than me, so I had him bench pressing the Tranny (to be on the safe
>>side), and I slid it off the dowel pins and helped guide it down.
>>
>>When you put the transmission back on and you are using two people,
>>make sure both know whats going on and where what has to line up.
>>Communication is key here.
>
>
>
> Would you say it would have been a lot more difficult putting it back by
> yourself?
>
>
>
>>I did my rear main seal, it seemed like it was leaking a little, but
>>it could have been seepage up from my leaking oil pan gasket. I took
>>the whole holder off, which requires to have the oil pan off too.
>
>
>
>
> Hmm. Even more work.
>
>
>
>
>>This
>>made carefully driving in the new seal a much less scarier process.
>>Doing the transmission oil seals with the tranny off was a pleasure,
>>since I had done them with the tranny on the car.
>>
>>Access to the speedo cable was a pain in the ass. My Helm manual
>>showed the boot-covered clip-holding assembly in better detail in the
>>Engine Removal section.'
>>
>>Resurfacing my flywheel was a little more pricy than I expected. It
>>was $40 US plus tax. I had a small town machine shop do it thats been
>>in business for quite a while, and so far my clutch feels good.
>>
>>Have some degreaser and some rags/towels to clean up the inside of the
>>bell housing. Mine was a little oily, and of course coated in dust.
>>
>>I enjoyed getting a glance at the bottom end of my engine when I had
>>the oil pan off. I've never taken a block apart before, but it looks
>>like fun.
>>
>>It might be nice to have a new boot for the place where the stick
>>shift rod goes into the tranny. Mine was torn a little, but I didn't
>>have a replacement (maybe your clutch is hydraulic?).
>
>
>
>
> Cable.
>
>
>
>>My A pipe was tricky to get off, but I didn't break any studs. I went
>>in with extra studs and new nuts to be safe. I just PB blastered and
>>rapped on the ends of the studs and the nuts a bit. I did have to
>>hammer on a 1mm smaller socket than the nuts are sized for on one of
>>the nuts because it was so badly corroded.
>
>
>
> That's my one big worry. My A-pipe is original and is severely rusted (but
> not making noise). This car is my daily-driver and I drive as part of my
> job. I MUST have the finished when I start something. I can't just leave it
> for a few days until I figure out what to do.

you need a "spare" civic! dirt cheap. indispensible peace of mind.

>
>
>
>>Here was my one uncertainty. I remember that the end of the crankshaft
>>had a circulair depression between two of the bolt holes, and that the
>>back of the flywheel had a number (5?) of circluair depressions going
>>along a circumference on the back of the flywheel. I had not indexed
>>the flywheel to the crankshaft when I removed it, and my Helm manual
>>made no mention of a particular orientation. I can't remember how I
>>put it back on, as far as the depressions lining up a certain way, but
>>I probably did it in some symmetrical fashion. Does any one know what
>>I'm talking about, and if there is a certain way to do it?
>
>
>
> Maybe those are balance drillings?
>
>