I assume so. I attached a pic of our 2009 CIVIC and you can see that same sensor but the exhaust manifold exits forward from the engine not out the back like on the FIT.



Here is the coil pack the dealer said was bad but it continues to be in-service to this day ~20K miles later. Notice the patina of soot all over it from the combustion gases leaking past the lose spark plug. Smelled like gasoline too and that is what didn't make sense to me and triggered the DIY repair. "Why would something outside of the cylinder 'smell' like it was from inside the cylinder?"

 

Thanks for the pictures. I got my Fit's Upper (plastic) Cowl back in place with new clips and all is well. It doesn't lay quite as flat as it should at the split/sliding joint, but it's solidly in place and isn't going anywhere. No way I'm going to remove it and break more clips to see what's up.

I no longer need to worry about loose plugs. Hooray!

 

I figured it out. There are tabs on the Upper (plastic) cowl that engage the Lower (metal) cowl and I failed to notice them. I took a second look today and flexed the tabs into place. Everything looks perfect now.

 

More like hooks that come over the leading edge of the metal tray on bottom. Once they are hooked together then the distance between the plastic / metal is reduced and the plastic button clips can reach / lock those together.



I just replaced the wiper motor on the 2009 CIVIC. Same set up, sort of.

 

Yes, that's it. I'm so happy that all is well with my cowl appearance and function now.

I didn't remove my plugs, but rather just checked their tightness with my wrench set to 20 LB/FT. None of them moved, which is good. I hope they're not too tight. I'll find that out in about 40K Miles when I go to replace them!

 

FWIW, my bought-new 13 Fit had a plug become loose at about 25k miles. I smelled gas as I drove it. I took off all the coils and #2 was not even finger-tight. I tightened, and all was well.
IMO I'm not sure I'd use loctite, but I guess if it keeps happening, there's no other choice. Be sparing, that's aluminum I think, it would be easy to damage.
Also, if you hand aren't too big, you can get to the coils and plugs without taking the cowl off. It's a pain and you're working blind, but its possible.

 

I'm an expert at working on all of that stuff back there with my left hand / arm (right-handed by nature). I took off the cowling once to properly torque the plugs, which you couldn't do with it in place. When #2 came loose again, I left the cowling in place and just reached in there to take every coil pack out one by one. Then I took each plug out, added the blue threadlocker paste by Permatex and put back in without using a torque wrench. At this point ~30K miles later, nothing has come lose, no more CEL alarm, no more VAS alarm, no gasoline smell, better gas mileage.

Wonder why everyone seem to have problems with #2 cylinder although I also had #3 loose too.

 

Clean threads and a torque wrench.. Never had a problem even on cars that had the same issue.. Over torque will cause them to come loose as well. You'll stretch the threads in the head.. Barest coat of machine oil on the plug threads spin down finger tight torque to spec.
If you don't have a torque wrench there is typically a rotational spec on the box the plugs come in.. IE flat base champions in a old chevy were spin down tight by hand then turn 2/3 of a turn.. I checked with a torque wrench one time and they came out dead on ever time..