My Front Brembo Gran Turismo 6 Piston Type III Rotor
#65
At this moment, my J's Racing master cylinder is good enough to feed all the calipers, but I still feel, it had just slightly longer travel than ideal so...
I decide to buy the JDM Honda Odyssey 1in master cylinder from Japan and it just arrive today, I will still need to buy a Honda EK1 Brake Booster to fit this JDM Odyssey before I can install it...,... hopefully soon...
I decide to buy the JDM Honda Odyssey 1in master cylinder from Japan and it just arrive today, I will still need to buy a Honda EK1 Brake Booster to fit this JDM Odyssey before I can install it...,... hopefully soon...
Last edited by BMW ALPINA; 07-07-2018 at 03:33 AM.
#66
I have almost all the parts needed to install the Honda Odyssey 1in Master Cylinder, including a brand new Honda EK1 Brake Booster... I am just waiting for vacuum brake hose from Merlin Motorsport in UK, along with my other order...
My J's Racing Master Cylinder will be on sale soon
Anybody Interested?
My J's Racing Master Cylinder will be on sale soon
Anybody Interested?
#67
This weekend, I finally have all the parts needed to replace my J's Racing Master Cylinder to Honda Odyssey 1" Master Cylinder. (last part needed was the vacuum hose and finally arrived from Merlin UK last Friday).
First of all, I should not bought the J's Racing Master Cylinder because J's was secretive on the size (diameter) of their master cylinder. They actually grind off the numbering on the body of the master cylinder!!!
On their website, J's claim that their Master Cylinder is perfect for a front 6 piston front brake caliper application with stock Honda Fit rear disk brake caliper, but I now realized that is for J's Racing own 6 piston front brake caliper. My Brembo 6 piston brake caliper is much larger, not to mention I also use much larger rear Acura Integra Type R rear brake caliper, thus the J's Racing Master Cylinder is not perfect.
There is still a bit of pedal travel (more than stock pedal travel) and the pedal is not as firm as I would hope...
I already aware of the possibility to use JDM Honda Odyssey (Model DBA-RB1) 1in diameter brake master cylinder in conjunction with Honda Civic (1990's era) 9" brake booster from this Japanese owner of Honda Fit:
https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid...ote.aspx#title
before I bought the J's racing master cylinder, but at that time, I thought J's Racing master cylinder is already large enough, plus they can use the stock brake booster so it is easier to change...
So here is the DIY:
Above are pictures of the parts/component I use, including the brake booster from 1990's era Honda Civic (I bought brand new of course),
3 can of ATE brake fluid, brake vacuum hose, several russell and goodridge one person bleeder valve to replace all the bleeder valve on the Brembo and ITR caliper.
Below is the tool I use to bent the pipe adapter since the Honda Odyssey have an M10 thread fitting while Honda Fit (with VSA) use M12:
Special "claw like" wrench for brake fitting:
Below is the picture of the J's Racing Master Cylinder before I took it out, remove the brake fluid from the reservoir and after I took it out.
Very easy, just 2 bolt that attached it to the brake booster and remove the 2 hard line from it. In my case more complicated because I need to remove the Kuo's Garage upper strut bar that also function as brake master cylinder bracket/reinforcement.
First of all, I should not bought the J's Racing Master Cylinder because J's was secretive on the size (diameter) of their master cylinder. They actually grind off the numbering on the body of the master cylinder!!!
On their website, J's claim that their Master Cylinder is perfect for a front 6 piston front brake caliper application with stock Honda Fit rear disk brake caliper, but I now realized that is for J's Racing own 6 piston front brake caliper. My Brembo 6 piston brake caliper is much larger, not to mention I also use much larger rear Acura Integra Type R rear brake caliper, thus the J's Racing Master Cylinder is not perfect.
There is still a bit of pedal travel (more than stock pedal travel) and the pedal is not as firm as I would hope...
I already aware of the possibility to use JDM Honda Odyssey (Model DBA-RB1) 1in diameter brake master cylinder in conjunction with Honda Civic (1990's era) 9" brake booster from this Japanese owner of Honda Fit:
https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid...ote.aspx#title
before I bought the J's racing master cylinder, but at that time, I thought J's Racing master cylinder is already large enough, plus they can use the stock brake booster so it is easier to change...
So here is the DIY:
Above are pictures of the parts/component I use, including the brake booster from 1990's era Honda Civic (I bought brand new of course),
3 can of ATE brake fluid, brake vacuum hose, several russell and goodridge one person bleeder valve to replace all the bleeder valve on the Brembo and ITR caliper.
Below is the tool I use to bent the pipe adapter since the Honda Odyssey have an M10 thread fitting while Honda Fit (with VSA) use M12:
Special "claw like" wrench for brake fitting:
Below is the picture of the J's Racing Master Cylinder before I took it out, remove the brake fluid from the reservoir and after I took it out.
Very easy, just 2 bolt that attached it to the brake booster and remove the 2 hard line from it. In my case more complicated because I need to remove the Kuo's Garage upper strut bar that also function as brake master cylinder bracket/reinforcement.
#68
Next step is to remove the old vacuum hose from the brake booster using special (like ice pick) tools, then near the brake pedal, remove the safety clip, and remove the pin:
Last remove the 4 nuts that hold the brake booster in place and here is the pictures before and after removal and comparison pictures with stock brake booster:
By the way, I forgot to mention that in order to slide the brake booster out of it's place, and to put the new brake booster back, I need to take out the end piece:
Here is what the brake booster gasket looks like, I also decide to replace all the pin/safety clip, nut/ring with a new one:
Last remove the 4 nuts that hold the brake booster in place and here is the pictures before and after removal and comparison pictures with stock brake booster:
By the way, I forgot to mention that in order to slide the brake booster out of it's place, and to put the new brake booster back, I need to take out the end piece:
Here is what the brake booster gasket looks like, I also decide to replace all the pin/safety clip, nut/ring with a new one:
#69
Notice on the picture above that the Honda Civic brake booster inlet vacuum is now at the lower part which mean the original brake vacuum hose might not be long enough so in order to anticpate this,
I bought a new brake vacuum hose a long with Honda 1 way vacuum valve and I assemble it below:
Comparison between the original 1 way vacuum valve vs. the new one, plus pictures of the new hose attached to the Honda Civic brake booster:
The Honda Odyssey brake master cylinder have a much larger reservoir which won't fit in our car, so I took it out and replace it with the brake reservoir that originally came with J's racing master cylinder:
Several comparison pictures between J's Racing master cylinder vs. Honda Odyssey 1in master cylinder:
Forming the adapter pipe:
Replace all the bleeder valve on all the calipers:
All hard piping connected with the adapter:
Then I bleed the brakes which took all 3 bottles of ATE brake fluid (each 1 liter)... I am so lucky that I bought 3 bottles, otherwise, I would be stuck in the middle of bleeding the lines...
Now, here is the review...
The brake pedal no longer have any slack/long pedal travel !!!
It was even better than the pedal travel when everything was stock !!!
It is VERY FIRM, in fact the last time I have a brake pedal this firm was when I own a 1994 Porsche 911 Turbo 3.6 back in 1995 to 1996!!!
Yes, it is THAT GOOD !!!
When I drive at high speed and I press the brake pedal, I can modulate it easily, and it gave me plenty of feedback.
The feeling is similar to the brake pedal on a go kart...
The only downside is, I need to train my leg again because now it require more effort to push the brake pedal,
I should choose the 1in Honda Odyssey master cylinder instead of the J's racing master cylinder...
don't get me wrong, if you just modify your car with perhaps a wilwood front caliper, the J's racing master cylinder is more than enough,
but my Brembo upgrade require more,
finally it find the perfect match, that is the JDM Honda Odyssey 1in brake master cylinder
With this upgrade, I declare my brake upgrade project finally completed
on closing note, my J's Racing master cylinder is for sale now
Last edited by BMW ALPINA; 07-24-2018 at 02:22 AM.
#70
Love those wheels. As someone up above said the brakes are intense. I have done a ton mods myself not so much on my Fit but on my 2006 S2000. I know what it is like to bitten by the mod bug. Those brakes could stop 10 Fits bolted together dropped from the Empire State building! BTW your car is one of the best looking Fits I have ever seen. Mods people pick are not about function it is about what you want. Sure the brakes are totally over kill, a set of pads will last a life time! Hey who am I say that it is silly to spend more on a set of brakes than the car is worth. If you like it more power to you man! PS I doubt you will see any difference in performance.
#71
Love those wheels. As someone up above said the brakes are intense. I have done a ton mods myself not so much on my Fit but on my 2006 S2000. I know what it is like to bitten by the mod bug. Those brakes could stop 10 Fits bolted together dropped from the Empire State building! BTW your car is one of the best looking Fits I have ever seen. Mods people pick are not about function it is about what you want. Sure the brakes are totally over kill, a set of pads will last a life time! Hey who am I say that it is silly to spend more on a set of brakes than the car is worth. If you like it more power to you man! PS I doubt you will see any difference in performance.
Hi DaGou,
Thanks for your kind words.
I do want to comment that the braking performance (shorter stopping distance) improved a lot in comparison to the stock brakes.
If I just upgrade the brake without upgrading the suspension, tire and wheel, then you are right that there will be no difference (outside fade resistant) in braking performance compare to stock brakes, in fact it might lead to reduce performance due to added unsprung weight and sudden weight transfer during braking
but in my case,
Please remember that not only I add more absolute stopping power with this brakes upgrade but:
a. I do it at all 4 corners, front and rear making the brake bias as balance, if not better than stock
Here is the thread on the rear brake (Integra Type R caliper) upgrade:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...onversion.html
b. I reduce the tendency of front weight transfer while braking by using a much higher spring rate Ohlins coilover that provide more grip to the rear of the tire (prevent rear tire lock up).
c. I use much larger wheel (but still light BBS forged wheel), both in diameter and width, resulting in much more contact patch available
The wheel size of 18 x 7.5in allows efficient transfer of the extra braking power from the larger brakes available efficiently before locking the wheel
d. I use much better tire compound (Michelin Pilot Super Sport and Pilot Sport 4s),
that also provide much more grip than the stock tire and of course much larger contact patch at 225/40ZR18 rear and 215/40ZR18 front.
Last edited by BMW ALPINA; 07-24-2018 at 02:34 PM.
#73
Hello, they provide the detailed instruction in the package along with their specific grease (one tube).
It's best if you also install the rear axle rigid collar too, it help reduce the side to side flex of the axle that I experience with larger tire/wheel.
#75
I custom design (myself) the bracket and rotor hat to make it work on our Honda Fit. I then send my design to machine shop (CNC) with highest grade aluminum.
I also custom anodized to Military spec anodize. I post all the process at this thread.
#77
When I switch to Brembo brakes, I had to add 15mm H&R spacer, change my wheel from OZ Racing to BBS so the spoke can clear the caliper, which also affect the available size of my tire so it wont' rub the fender.
With the OZ Racing wheel, I used 225/40ZR18 Michelin Pilot Super Sport, but with the 15mm H&R Spacer, I have to change the size to 215/40/ZR18 with the same Michelin Pilot Super Sport.
This change of tire size result in lower side wall profile, and combined with the negative camber (again so it can clear the fender), resulting in VERY DIRECT steering response and a bit harsher ride.
despite the smaller width, the grip is still crazy good, I never heard my tire squeal no matter how hard I corner... Even when I brake very very hard, the tire did not squeall at all...
but I missed the more comfortable ride of a 225 tire, plus the LESS DIRECT steering response...
Because this is my daily driver, and to have a very direct fast sharp response almost like a go kart on street driving make me have to concentrate all the time with my steering input...
(it change direction with the slightest input).
so I decide to make another measurement, and I think I can get away with 225/40ZR18 again if I change the front spacer to just 13mm... and it wil still clear the caliper.
so I order a custom made 13mm spacer and since my front tire finally worn out, today I replace it with the 225/40ZR18.
The Pilot Super Sport is now replaced by the improved version Pilot Sport 4S, which I had install for my rear tire since few months ago,
so now the front tire match the rear with the same Pilot Sport 4S !
This weekend, I will cut the ARP stud so I can use my BBS lug nut again, for the time being I use Gorilla open lock lug nut.
Here are the pictures:
Michelin Pilot Sport 4S 225/40ZR18 arrived from Tire Rack:
the Old 15mm H&R Spacer before removal:
It stuck despite my effort to yank it out, so time for some "creative techniques":
First I apply PB Blaster and then use impact screwdriver to turn the locking nut screw counter clockwise then use that screw to PUSH the spacer out,
and it make it very easy
Use Loctite Silver Anti Seize, install the New Custom 13mm Spacer:
Have to use open wheel lug nut for now, until I have time to cut this ARP stud short so it can fit my BBS lug nut again:
Driving impression after all 4 wheel use 225/40ZR18 Michelin Pilot Sport 4s is that the ride is more quiet, more comfortable, and most importantly the steering response is now LESS Sharp, LESS Immediate, and I can relax more, I don't have to concentrate all the time. I guess I am getting old now, and don't need the immediate steering response for daily car
With the OZ Racing wheel, I used 225/40ZR18 Michelin Pilot Super Sport, but with the 15mm H&R Spacer, I have to change the size to 215/40/ZR18 with the same Michelin Pilot Super Sport.
This change of tire size result in lower side wall profile, and combined with the negative camber (again so it can clear the fender), resulting in VERY DIRECT steering response and a bit harsher ride.
despite the smaller width, the grip is still crazy good, I never heard my tire squeal no matter how hard I corner... Even when I brake very very hard, the tire did not squeall at all...
but I missed the more comfortable ride of a 225 tire, plus the LESS DIRECT steering response...
Because this is my daily driver, and to have a very direct fast sharp response almost like a go kart on street driving make me have to concentrate all the time with my steering input...
(it change direction with the slightest input).
so I decide to make another measurement, and I think I can get away with 225/40ZR18 again if I change the front spacer to just 13mm... and it wil still clear the caliper.
so I order a custom made 13mm spacer and since my front tire finally worn out, today I replace it with the 225/40ZR18.
The Pilot Super Sport is now replaced by the improved version Pilot Sport 4S, which I had install for my rear tire since few months ago,
so now the front tire match the rear with the same Pilot Sport 4S !
This weekend, I will cut the ARP stud so I can use my BBS lug nut again, for the time being I use Gorilla open lock lug nut.
Here are the pictures:
Michelin Pilot Sport 4S 225/40ZR18 arrived from Tire Rack:
the Old 15mm H&R Spacer before removal:
It stuck despite my effort to yank it out, so time for some "creative techniques":
First I apply PB Blaster and then use impact screwdriver to turn the locking nut screw counter clockwise then use that screw to PUSH the spacer out,
and it make it very easy
Use Loctite Silver Anti Seize, install the New Custom 13mm Spacer:
Have to use open wheel lug nut for now, until I have time to cut this ARP stud short so it can fit my BBS lug nut again:
Driving impression after all 4 wheel use 225/40ZR18 Michelin Pilot Sport 4s is that the ride is more quiet, more comfortable, and most importantly the steering response is now LESS Sharp, LESS Immediate, and I can relax more, I don't have to concentrate all the time. I guess I am getting old now, and don't need the immediate steering response for daily car
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post