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changed my front brake rotors and pads...sanded my rear drums and pads....and flushed the brake fluid yesterday. well i answered my own question...1 pint is not enough for a full flush. well, i think it would be if a person keeps up with their flushes or does them prematurely...but for anyone with relatively dark fluid in the reservoir BUY 2 PINTS!!
1 pint was barely enough for the front with the condition my fluid was in. it was in worse than i thought and even had little greenish mossy things poppin up. so instead of ordering and waiting for another bottle of Motul fluid, it was more important to me to finish the flush with clean fluid. I bought 12oz of Lucas dot 3 locally and finished the job.
With the bottle of 12oz Lucas I was able to do the rears, and then go back up to the fronts for a second time with about 3 tablespoons to spare. glad i did the fronts a second time because the driver front was kinda murky after doing once. the second pass on the passenger side front had a slight tinge to it, but was mostly clean. I wish it was pure Motul in there, but I do no racing and thought spending $20 on a pint was overkill...not worth $40 for 2 bottles of Motul per flush to me. In the future Ill be buying 2 pints of Lucas or something similary priced especially since im considering doing a flush once a year or so.
and since this is now "post your used brake fluid" thread...heres mine. first pic is after fronts. second pic is after doing rears once and then fronts for second time.
Replaced 94k mile original shocks (Showa branded Honda) with Sachs aftermarket. Ride quality is much nicer, particularly on choppy pavement and bumps. They match the 2018 Honda - Sachs struts I have on front quite well.
With the brake fluid job complete, I washed, clay barred and waxed the Fit. It'll soon be back to college with my student loaded up with stuff. Happily, this college year the Fit will enjoy covered parking.
With the brake fluid job complete, I washed, clay barred and waxed the Fit. It'll soon be back to college with my student loaded up with stuff. Happily, this college year the Fit will enjoy covered parking.
If you're getting noise while braking it's usually one of two things.
Brake wear indicator when the pads are low. If its this, then the noise usually goes away after the piece of metal for the indicator breaks away (either way, time for new brakes). You need to open up the caliper and fully inspect all the pads, because they can wear unevenly... making them look thick from the outside, but gone on the inside.
Or brake pad vibration. It sounds like squealing but it's the backing plate vibrating against the caliper piston.
My plan for my day off is to open up the calipers and see what's up. The thing is, I am not getting any vibration in the brake pedal or the steering wheel. The noise also was heard during normal travel, not braking. The brakes are biting the same. Would poor pads cause that?
Thank you. Next up, I might try to touch up those curb scuff marks on the bottom of the front cowl. Nothing fancy, as they'll get scratched again, but it should improve the look for a while.
I finally had some time this weekend to get started on the Fit summer to-do list.
I Plasti dipped the rear under-bumper part today while also doing a rear brake job. Went ahead and dipped the new drums too. Love the way it all came out!
After seven years (and apparently two weeks), I just swapped my headlights back to stock.
I had a few problems with the aftermarket headlight that I was willing to deal with. But after a failed attempt at de-hazing the headlight I decided to swap it back.
I still dislike the whole stock frog eyed look, so I'm still looking for some aftermarket headlight similar to my old ones. Retrofitting it with a projector doesn't solve that, even if I did consider doing it.
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I also check the front wheels for what had been making noise at low speeds lately. One potential cause could've been the lug nuts... I noticed that as soon as I started to take them off, it required FAR LESS effort to start than it normally did. So I wonder if the noise was wheel moving/grinding against the hub/rotor due to "loose" nuts.
Once I took off the wheels, I checked around but couldn't figure out anything else that could've made the noise. Swapped the inner and outer brake pads around in case it was related, then put the wheels back on, making sure it was tight (upped the torque wrench to 85 ft*lb).
If it was "loose" nuts, then there's no one to blame but myself, since the last job there was me replacing the endlinks for the sway bar.
Update: drove around for half the day (not quite back home yet though) and the noise hasn’t come back... so I guess it was the nuts. Going to have to do one torque check when I get home.
I had put on Koni's and Swift lowering springs on but I was not loving the springs. This weekend I took them off and liken it better. Nothing wrong with the Swift springs, I just did not like the look.
This weekend, I finally have all the parts needed to replace my J's Racing Master Cylinder to Honda Odyssey 1" Master Cylinder. (last part needed was the vacuum hose and finally arrived from Merlin UK last Friday).
First of all, I should not bought the J's Racing Master Cylinder because J's was secretive on the size (diameter) of their master cylinder. They actually grind off the numbering on the body of the master cylinder!!!
On their website, J's claim that their Master Cylinder is perfect for a front 6 piston front brake caliper application with stock Honda Fit rear disk brake caliper, but I now realized that is for J's Racing own 6 piston front brake caliper. My Brembo 6 piston brake caliper is much larger, not to mention I also use much larger rear Acura Integra Type R rear brake caliper, thus the J's Racing Master Cylinder is not perfect.
There is still a bit of pedal travel (more than stock pedal travel) and the pedal is not as firm as I would hope...
I already aware of the possibility to use JDM Honda Odyssey (Model DBA-RB1) 1in diameter brake master cylinder in conjunction with Honda Civic (1990's era) 9" brake booster from this Japanese owner of Honda Fit: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid...ote.aspx#title
before I bought the J's racing master cylinder, but at that time, I thought J's Racing master cylinder is already large enough, plus they can use the stock brake booster so it is easier to change...
The brake pedal no longer have any slack/long pedal travel !!!
It was even better than the pedal travel when everything was stock !!!
It is VERY FIRM, in fact the last time I have a brake pedal this firm was when I own a 1994 Porsche 911 Turbo 3.6 back in 1995 to 1996!!!
Yes, it is THAT GOOD !!!
When I drive at high speed and I press the brake pedal, I can modulate it easily, and it gave me plenty of feedback.
The feeling is similar to the brake pedal on a go kart...
The only downside is, I need to train my leg again because now it require more effort to push the brake pedal,
I should choose the 1in Honda Odyssey master cylinder instead of the J's racing master cylinder...
don't get me wrong, if you just modify your car with perhaps a wilwood front caliper, the J's racing master cylinder is more than enough,
but my Brembo upgrade require more,
finally it find the perfect match, that is the JDM Honda Odyssey 1in brake master cylinder
With this upgrade, I declare my brake upgrade project finally completed
The new one looks much better, even though it's not quite application specific. I had to do some folding here and there, making holes for the mounting screws and such. And because I used the stitched seam to poke two mounting points through, it's not aligned the way it's normally is.
Gave the engine and supercharger an oil change and rotated my tires (torque checked it after putting it on the ground and after driving a 3 mile loop)..
I made a messy goof when doing the oil for the sc... without opening up the fill port, I only opened up the drain. Apparently, it was under some pressure as it sprayed blue oil all over me and the engine bay. =.="
It still drained 3 oz after that mess... so I wonder just how much they put after rebuilding it (was first oil change since). The "recommended" from Sprintex is only about 53 ml (2 oz). The bottle that came with my sc after the rebuild had, what looked to be 3 oz in there. So I just used it all up.
The sc sounds so much better now. About a week after it came back and I reinstalled it, it sounded a little "coarse," now its smoother.
07-21-2018, 12:31 PM
Next up, I might try to touch up those curb scuff marks on the bottom of the front cowl. Nothing fancy, as they'll get scratched again, but it should improve the look for a while.
