2009 and up front wheel studs broken
#21
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#23
Floor jack? Jack stand? Garage?
All you need is some open room and the tools/spare tire in the car. If you have models that don't have a spare tire... find a concrete block. Regardless of spare, you should have factory scissor jack and tire iron.
Use the scissor jack to lift one corner, pull off wheel.
Place spare tire on... if no spare, place block under wheel.
Lower car and move to next location on rotation cycle.
Rinse and repeat.
Once you're back at the first location, swap the spare/block with the wheel and call it a day...
...right?
No garage? Any parking lot or wide street will do. Hell, shoulder off the highway would work.
Even if you refuse to get a torque wrench, it's not that hard... hand tighten the nuts in a cross pattern (constantly hit the tire like you're banging on a table to have it center itself). Once they are hand tightened, you'll probably get 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn without much force with the tire iron... just add another 1/4 of a turn with force and that should be sufficient.
The only real thing you need... some time and effort.
And why would you take them to NTB without the car just for rotating? Unmounting the tire from the wheel itself is unnecessary unless you have directional aftermarket wheels (which I don't see people getting too often). If you've unmounted the wheel from the car... and you're gonna remount them to the car later... the only thing left to do is move them from one corner to the next in the rotation (cross forward, straight back).
PS... apparently I rotated my tires backward (using the pattern recommended for RWD cars and not the FWD pattern... whoops). I should've just stuck to my original plan... thickest tread in front left, next thickest in front right, then rear left and finally the thinnest in rear right... as that seems to be how they wear out on me (most wear in front left, then right, then rear left and right)... which usually result in an X pattern rotation.
All you need is some open room and the tools/spare tire in the car. If you have models that don't have a spare tire... find a concrete block. Regardless of spare, you should have factory scissor jack and tire iron.
Use the scissor jack to lift one corner, pull off wheel.
Place spare tire on... if no spare, place block under wheel.
Lower car and move to next location on rotation cycle.
Rinse and repeat.
Once you're back at the first location, swap the spare/block with the wheel and call it a day...
...right?
No garage? Any parking lot or wide street will do. Hell, shoulder off the highway would work.
Even if you refuse to get a torque wrench, it's not that hard... hand tighten the nuts in a cross pattern (constantly hit the tire like you're banging on a table to have it center itself). Once they are hand tightened, you'll probably get 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn without much force with the tire iron... just add another 1/4 of a turn with force and that should be sufficient.
The only real thing you need... some time and effort.
And why would you take them to NTB without the car just for rotating? Unmounting the tire from the wheel itself is unnecessary unless you have directional aftermarket wheels (which I don't see people getting too often). If you've unmounted the wheel from the car... and you're gonna remount them to the car later... the only thing left to do is move them from one corner to the next in the rotation (cross forward, straight back).
PS... apparently I rotated my tires backward (using the pattern recommended for RWD cars and not the FWD pattern... whoops). I should've just stuck to my original plan... thickest tread in front left, next thickest in front right, then rear left and finally the thinnest in rear right... as that seems to be how they wear out on me (most wear in front left, then right, then rear left and right)... which usually result in an X pattern rotation.
#24
And why would you take them to NTB without the car just for rotating? Unmounting the tire from the wheel itself is unnecessary unless you have directional aftermarket wheels (which I don't see people getting too often). If you've unmounted the wheel from the car... and you're gonna remount them to the car later... the only thing left to do is move them from one corner to the next in the rotation (cross forward, straight back).
#28
I don't think any of those shops bother to do it the right way...
on 09 fit the stud won't come out all the way because the hub get's in the way. so the stud just stuck in the hole. That is why honda had to take the assembly off and => replace the bearing as well => $400 for a $10 part...
on 09 fit the stud won't come out all the way because the hub get's in the way. so the stud just stuck in the hole. That is why honda had to take the assembly off and => replace the bearing as well => $400 for a $10 part...
Last edited by l3igl3ang; 03-09-2019 at 11:23 PM.
#29
I've used an impact for removal, and the dudes at tire shops use em for installation with the torque rods and no issues. You can likely find replacement hub assy.s pretty easy, or replace the stock studs with more hardy ones, but i almost never use power tools. Really only when its absolutely necessary for some old rusty junk. I realize that doesnt help with your issue. I'd be surprised if honda really did use crappy studs. I've never dealt with delicate studs, and I've changed thousands upon thousands of tires. Only dealt with other sh*tty technicians rushing stuff, and thats not a shot at you. What kinda torque is your gun putting out? Mines 350ft.lbs. I mean, the torque spec is only 80. If honda didnt design em to handle more than 200, well, I've hit some gnarly potholes and ran over a curb or two, smacked the side of a wheel against one too going about 15 in a parking lot. They're still showin no signs of stress.
losing a wheel is a big lawsuit, big risk of fatality. A manufacturer would have to have a complete idiot at the helm if shotty studs were being used.
losing a wheel is a big lawsuit, big risk of fatality. A manufacturer would have to have a complete idiot at the helm if shotty studs were being used.
#30
You can replace the studs without replacing the bearing you just have to be careful. Press the hub out and replace the studs then press it back in. The key is when you press it back in Don’t go all the way the use the driveshaft to pull it back together the rest of the way. I’ve done it many times when replacing studs with arps with no issues.
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