The Firestones that came on it are still ok at 25,000. They are, however, very prone to punctures. Will replace them by the end of summer.

 

If they are going to lie, they will simply tell you that the number is different. If you insist on seeing the number they will tilt the gauge while taking the reading and it will read low. Digital gauges are just a high-tech crutch for people who can't read a scale.

If you want an accurate reading, keep it simple and do it yourself. I happen to use a vernier caliper, but that is overkill when measuring something made of rubber!

 

I use the old MK1 Mod 0 eyeball, and ask if I want to go into a winter with the amount of tread I've got. 16ths? Couldn't tell you.

 

My 2015 FIT Firestone OEMs have 15K on them and probably have another 10k min to go before replacement needed. Good even wear thus far. They are rated 30k normal use. If you get more than that consider it a gift.

But traction in wet is poor. Tires spin on stop acceleration in wet conditions.

Looking for a wider better traction tire for replacement where I can stay close to the diameter. Any suggestions appreciated.

Regarding testing tire depth/tread left, you don't need digital. In fact, if you get used to tires and tread, you can just use your fingers sticking them between the tread on the inside or outside of tire to tell you if it time to rotate or replace. This does not need to be an exact science. If the tire looks cut or too warn down then replace it.

Be carefully of high commission bonus places like Discount Tire. I try to become very familiar with my tires when new and access them every 5 to 10 k miles. Examine how they are changing. This is good practice for everyone.

Regarding high mileage tires rated for more than 50k: keep in mind that while the tread may last, the minute your new tires hit the ground and all the heat, dirt, chemicals, watet, etc, the rubber compounds are slowly getting harder and traction and handling diminish overtime. While tread remains, you are not riding on the best rubber after 50 k. Consider a tire that will get you 50 and replace at that interval for the best and safest performance. Don't get taken in with high mileage claims. Much better to replace more often a less expensive tire than spend more for a high mileage tire.

 

Michelin Defender

 

185/55/16 (OEM) -> 205/50/16 for wider/better traction.

You can do the comparison here side by side, just punch in the number.
You can check what is best without bulging here. OEM rim size for the EX/EX-L model is 16x6 and 205/50/16 doesn't rub.

As for which make/model, I am not sure what others would recommend, but after looking through the reviews and others' comments I am planning to get either 1) Yokohama YK580 2) Falken Pro G4 A/S from America's tires when they have their major holiday promotion(probably Labor Day), dending on the promotion at that time. My current OEM Firestone tires are at 3.5/32 for the front set and 4.0/32 for the rear set with 31k miles on them through mostly SoCal driving.

 

Thanks!

I am in So Cal too.

Good stuff and tire resources.

All FIT owners should be aware of this to improve their performance.

Key question: If I go with the 205 60, a wider tire that fits, it has a slightly different diameter and spins different revolutions. 840 for oem Firestone and 838 revolutions for 205. Over time will this result in more or less cumulative mileage on my car than the OEM tires? Another words do less revolutions = more or less mileage on a car if you don't adjust the speedo?

Thanks if you know.

 

A larger tire will cover more ground per revolution, your speedometer will read slower than your actual ground speed (compare it with a GPS), and the odometer will show fewer than actual miles. Thankfully, Uncle G wasn't asleep in math class.


Not sure if a 205-60R 16 tire will "fit" the car. Most people who've upgraded have gone with a 205-50R 16. More info in the tire section of the forum.