driver side transmission mount torn
#2
The mount only costs $29 - $42 USD at Rock Auto. Appears to be easy to replace once the drivetrain is supported.
More Information for ANCHOR 9250
More Information for ANCHOR 9250
#3
Il recently installed that exact mount. I've read only really bad reviews online that the anchor mounts fail very quickly. I just installed it this month so I hope I'm still good. Just know that the mount is cheap but it doesn't have a good reputation.
#4
Rock Auto sells several brands, I have no experience with the Anchor brand personally, just used it as an example 'cause of the nice picture.
#5
Would shoving a white eraser between the gills of the mount give your stiffness as well as back to school savings from Staples? The answer is yes I did so and it was very stiff until they ground to a pulp. But they didnt hurt the rubber in the mount because it is softer yet stiff enough. Cheep fun for a day of hard driving. In my GFs Cobalt I could fit a whole 10mm deep socket passing right through on the lower motor mount. That is some gap these days .
Last edited by Lance; 09-01-2014 at 04:35 PM.
#6
that mount is nothing more than a positive stop mount...
it really only serves to stop the motor/trans movement at its limit...
with that said, the first stop to firming up my motor mounts was to fill that one with a crap load of windowweld... and it did help quite a bit...
it really only serves to stop the motor/trans movement at its limit...
with that said, the first stop to firming up my motor mounts was to fill that one with a crap load of windowweld... and it did help quite a bit...
#7
that mount is nothing more than a positive stop mount...
it really only serves to stop the motor/trans movement at its limit...
with that said, the first stop to firming up my motor mounts was to fill that one with a crap load of windowweld... and it did help quite a bit...
it really only serves to stop the motor/trans movement at its limit...
with that said, the first stop to firming up my motor mounts was to fill that one with a crap load of windowweld... and it did help quite a bit...
#8
Mine tore, I was gonna replace it but the rusted bolts broke off in the frame. So, I've driven several thousand miles without it. I'm not dead and the car still runs, so I guess it's fine.
#9
Well, I ended up with a bum input shaft bearing. Might be because of the crooked engine? It's a pretty easy job except the bolts were on suuuuuper tight. I bought the mount for 30$ so no biggie.
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