Clutch install HELP!
#1
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Southern California :D
Posts: 1,409
Clutch install HELP!
Im about to change out my clutch and am wondering for people who have done this already on a GD3 07 or 08 do you have any pointers? how difficult is it? any tips and tricks?
HELP ME!
I'm terrified.....
HELP ME!
I'm terrified.....
#2
I wish I could guide you on this one. When I researched this one myself it said like 6 hours plus for labor. WTF. I've worked on a lot of Honda's in my day and that was like an hour and half job for me with hand tools. I was lucky my buddy (that has a shop) owned me a favor and did it for a deal.
Honestly though i'm super busy with work most the time but I would have liked to see what this job entailed. This is one of the only repair/mod I didn't do.
Good luck!
Honestly though i'm super busy with work most the time but I would have liked to see what this job entailed. This is one of the only repair/mod I didn't do.
Good luck!
#3
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Southern California :D
Posts: 1,409
I wish I could guide you on this one. When I researched this one myself it said like 6 hours plus for labor. WTF. I've worked on a lot of Honda's in my day and that was like an hour and half job for me with hand tools. I was lucky my buddy (that has a shop) owned me a favor and did it for a deal.
Honestly though i'm super busy with work most the time but I would have liked to see what this job entailed. This is one of the only repair/mod I didn't do.
Good luck!
Honestly though i'm super busy with work most the time but I would have liked to see what this job entailed. This is one of the only repair/mod I didn't do.
Good luck!
#4
Well, you'd have to be able to move the transmission far enough away from the engine to be able to get in and remove the clutch. Also, ideally, you'd inspect the flywheel to makes sure it's still serviceable with your new clutch plate. A replacement fly wheel isn't crazy expensive unless you get a special racing flywheel.
I think you have to remove the axles which is a relatively big job. I wouldn't wanna screw up my cv joints by prying the tranny away from the engine with the axles in the differential. I guess you'd at least have to remove the transmission mount to be able to move the transmission far enough away from the engine to get in there and replace the clutch. Ideally, I'd get the transmission completely out of there but for that, you'll have to remove the subframe. Also, you have to support the engine so you would need an extra jack or an engine hangar.
It's a big job! I used an exedy clutch but didn't install it myself. I did work on the transmission though. If your remove the transmission far enough, you can also replace the throwout bearing and bearing seal which are included in the kit which also contains some grease. I find the OEM Exedy clutch a little soft but then again I'm still on my first 400-500 miles, it should firm up a little. You would hope to at least get 50k miles or more from a clutch job so might as well be thorough and change all that stuff in there.
I think you have to remove the axles which is a relatively big job. I wouldn't wanna screw up my cv joints by prying the tranny away from the engine with the axles in the differential. I guess you'd at least have to remove the transmission mount to be able to move the transmission far enough away from the engine to get in there and replace the clutch. Ideally, I'd get the transmission completely out of there but for that, you'll have to remove the subframe. Also, you have to support the engine so you would need an extra jack or an engine hangar.
It's a big job! I used an exedy clutch but didn't install it myself. I did work on the transmission though. If your remove the transmission far enough, you can also replace the throwout bearing and bearing seal which are included in the kit which also contains some grease. I find the OEM Exedy clutch a little soft but then again I'm still on my first 400-500 miles, it should firm up a little. You would hope to at least get 50k miles or more from a clutch job so might as well be thorough and change all that stuff in there.
#6
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Southern California :D
Posts: 1,409
hey man so my transmission is out.. i installed the new throwout bearing and pilot bearing and rear seal. the flywheel is getting machined tomorrow and then hopefully back in and good to go.
#7
Cool. I think the standard exedy flywheel is 80$ so that's why I would consider replacing it if it's not serviceable. If you got a good price on machining, then go for it! It's kinda like rotors. They are so cheap that sometimes it's just not worth the price of getting them machined if you are just gonna DIY.
#8
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Southern California :D
Posts: 1,409
Cool. I think the standard exedy flywheel is 80$ so that's why I would consider replacing it if it's not serviceable. If you got a good price on machining, then go for it! It's kinda like rotors. They are so cheap that sometimes it's just not worth the price of getting them machined if you are just gonna DIY.
#9
To each his own! I recently cracked open my tranny and replaced the notorious mainshaft bearing but thought the other bearing on top of the mainshaft was kinda so so. Didn't change it and now that it's all back together I regret it a little! It's not every weekend you wanna be removing a transmission. Then again you live in Cali so you don't have a shitty 5 month winter like me where it's impossible to work on a car unless you have a heated garage!
#10
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Southern California :D
Posts: 1,409
To each his own! I recently cracked open my tranny and replaced the notorious mainshaft bearing but thought the other bearing on top of the mainshaft was kinda so so. Didn't change it and now that it's all back together I regret it a little! It's not every weekend you wanna be removing a transmission. Then again you live in Cali so you don't have a shitty 5 month winter like me where it's impossible to work on a car unless you have a heated garage!
#11
No, the mainshaft bearing is inside the actual transmission not in the clutch case. Here is a view of the bottom half of the GD3 transmission case. You can see the mainshaft (aka input shaft) bearing as well as the bum bearing I replaced right besides it. The mainshaft fits right in there. The other end of the mainshaft actually sticks out slightly of the transmission case and it's what you have to plug into the clutch plate when you install the transmission.
Do a google search for Honda mainshaft bearing and you'll see that it's a bearing that is known to fail in Hondas. It sucks because it's basically always spinning, except when you press the clutch pedal. Cost me about 30$ In OEM parts to replace but I had to rent a bearing puller for 10$ to extract the old bearing.
Do a google search for Honda mainshaft bearing and you'll see that it's a bearing that is known to fail in Hondas. It sucks because it's basically always spinning, except when you press the clutch pedal. Cost me about 30$ In OEM parts to replace but I had to rent a bearing puller for 10$ to extract the old bearing.
#12
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Southern California :D
Posts: 1,409
No, the mainshaft bearing is inside the actual transmission not in the clutch case. Here is a view of the bottom half of the GD3 transmission case. You can see the mainshaft (aka input shaft) bearing as well as the bum bearing I replaced right besides it. The mainshaft fits right in there. The other end of the mainshaft actually sticks out slightly of the transmission case and it's what you have to plug into the clutch plate when you install the transmission.
Do a google search for Honda mainshaft bearing and you'll see that it's a bearing that is known to fail in Hondas. It sucks because it's basically always spinning, except when you press the clutch pedal. Cost me about 30$ In OEM parts to replace but I had to rent a bearing puller for 10$ to extract the old bearing.
Do a google search for Honda mainshaft bearing and you'll see that it's a bearing that is known to fail in Hondas. It sucks because it's basically always spinning, except when you press the clutch pedal. Cost me about 30$ In OEM parts to replace but I had to rent a bearing puller for 10$ to extract the old bearing.
#13
I actually had a bad rattle as demonstrated in this video. It was clearly audible inside the cabin. Some people drive on the bad bearing for 1 or 2 years and deal with the noise. The only problem is that if the bearing were to fail and break, it will send broken pieces all in your transmission and could probably wreck it.
Since my mechanic was pulling the tranny anyway, he did a clutch job. I bought the exedy OEM kit which looked really nice, but I find it a bit soft. I hope it'll stiffen up once I get past 1k kilometers on it (600 miles). The stage 1 is about 350+ $ compares to the exedy OEM that cost me about 150$. I heard that the unboosted/turboed Fit engine was too weak to justify a racing clutch so I just went for a stock like replacement. However, I find my car slightly lost some zip.
Since my mechanic was pulling the tranny anyway, he did a clutch job. I bought the exedy OEM kit which looked really nice, but I find it a bit soft. I hope it'll stiffen up once I get past 1k kilometers on it (600 miles). The stage 1 is about 350+ $ compares to the exedy OEM that cost me about 150$. I heard that the unboosted/turboed Fit engine was too weak to justify a racing clutch so I just went for a stock like replacement. However, I find my car slightly lost some zip.
#14
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Southern California :D
Posts: 1,409
I actually had a bad rattle as demonstrated in this video. It was clearly audible inside the cabin. Some people drive on the bad bearing for 1 or 2 years and deal with the noise. The only problem is that if the bearing were to fail and break, it will send broken pieces all in your transmission and could probably wreck it.
Since my mechanic was pulling the tranny anyway, he did a clutch job. I bought the exedy OEM kit which looked really nice, but I find it a bit soft. I hope it'll stiffen up once I get past 1k kilometers on it (600 miles). The stage 1 is about 350+ $ compares to the exedy OEM that cost me about 150$. I heard that the unboosted/turboed Fit engine was too weak to justify a racing clutch so I just went for a stock like replacement. However, I find my car slightly lost some zip.
Honda Fit manual transmission rattle - YouTube
Since my mechanic was pulling the tranny anyway, he did a clutch job. I bought the exedy OEM kit which looked really nice, but I find it a bit soft. I hope it'll stiffen up once I get past 1k kilometers on it (600 miles). The stage 1 is about 350+ $ compares to the exedy OEM that cost me about 150$. I heard that the unboosted/turboed Fit engine was too weak to justify a racing clutch so I just went for a stock like replacement. However, I find my car slightly lost some zip.
Honda Fit manual transmission rattle - YouTube
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post