Fit I.C.E.Threads discussing in-car electronics including audio, video, security, and navigation systems for the Honda Fit/Jazz
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Thanks that clarifying Black3sr. The way it was worded, I didn't get it.
Yes, it is hard to hear outside the car. But you would be surprised how many people want me to open the doors and judge it by how far they can hear it down the road. They just don't get it. With 78 lbs of Dynamat, it was made to listen to "closely" in the car.
OK I hear you.
Now how do you get the groceries in there? If I did that I would have to take the Caravan to the grocery store.
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Thanks that clarifying Black3sr. The way it was worded, I didn't get it.
Yes, it is hard to hear outside the car. But you would be surprised how many people want me to open the doors and judge it by how far they can hear it down the road. They just don't get it. With 78 lbs of Dynamat, it was made to listen to "closely" in the car.
78 lbs? What'd you use as far as square feet goes? I only did about 3/4 of what I wanted to and I ended up with about 75 square feet in my car. I don't know how. And I still have to do the front doors, under the hood and maybe one day under the headliner. But after having put my amps in the other night, it seriously sounds incredible. Certainly worth the work and money. One of the best upgrades you can do in an economy car.
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2008 GD3 MT Fit (Base) Vivid Pearl Blue
---Finally started work on the Fit!!!---
I did boxes of Dynamat and weighed along the way for shits and grins. I didn't even consider to keep count on the square footage. I did it two years ago.
Off the top of my head, 9 lbs each front door. I'm surprised the hinges took it but they did. 6 lbs in each rear door and I don't even have speakers in them.
10 lbs in the headliner with just one solid layer. The rest is in the floor. Don't waste your time on the hood. You only need to do the headliner if your going to put a crankin' stereo in the car with lots of sub-bass.
To be done: Accord Horn & Intermittent wiper, Lower mesh grille, PRM Cold Air Intake, Color matched (Dark Blue) Brake Calipers/Drums, LED lower console lights.
not frustration but just very time consuming. It helped that my arms are quite skinny and long so it was easy for me to reach most spots. It only resulted in a handful of little cuts on my arms, wrists and hands.
was it worth it? yes!
would I do it again? yes and I did help my friend do his doors as well.
Now how do you get the groceries in there? If I did that I would have to take the Caravan to the grocery store.
They "FIT" nicely in the back seat. Although I have a couple of cars. I use the Fit for shows or just for weekend drives while I'm crankin' a little. Is your avatar suppose to be Hershey kisses, or poooooooop?
Based on my limited understanding of sound proofing, sound deadening material, such as Dynamat, is most effective applied to metal surfaces (such as the outer sheet metal of the door), where it damps vibrations. Sound absorbing material, on the other hand, such as closed-cell neoprene, is more effective in other locations, or even over the Dynamat. I'm not sure the gain is worth the effort (and weight) to put Dynamat on the inner door surfaces; closed cell foam might be more effective there -- if it's not too thick to permit re-attaching the door panels. I'm not saying that Dynamat isn't effective in this location, just that it might not be cost/weight effective.
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It's plenty cost/weight effective. Closed cell foam would work well under the door panel on the door surface after applying dampening. Honda's doesn't allow enough clearance if I remember to put anything too thick under the door panel.
Last edited by radareclipse; 09-16-2009 at 12:07 AM.
Forgot to photograph the same side of the car - damping material covered thoroughly inside the door:
Sealed up with HD temperature duct tape:
Dynamat added to cover the whole door:
I usually cover the door lock rod in plastic (usually a Subway bag because I'm eating my lunch) so it will still have some play and won't be stuck to the damping material. You want your door lock to still work!
One solid layer worked wonders for keeping my bass in the car and lowering reverberation. The energy transfers to the windshield and that moves up to a 1/4 inch or so. I had some Dynaliner (closed cell foam) but never used it in the doors. Just some on the rear floor between the front and rear seats. These pictures are for the benefit of others that would like to do this. Don't hesitate to positive rep me.
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2007 Honda Fit Sport - the need for sound.
Last edited by radareclipse; 09-16-2009 at 12:25 AM.
Radar +rep for taking the time to even think of all that soundproofing
Question for everyone (not to hijack the thread)
What 3 areas would be best to focus on to soundproof w/o getting flat broke?
I've price checked a lot of sound materials, some cheaper than others and besides dyna mat i have no clue what is what anymore and i'm unsure of sizes/needs b/c i don't know where to focus.
To most effectively increase my comforts should i soundproof:
Front doors, back seat floor, back doors?
Ceiling, front doors, boot/trunk?
Front doors, back seat floor, roof?
Other?
What would be the most bang for the buck? Better yet, what would be most do-able solo? I know i'm not going to have an accomplice when i'm doing this....
Do the front doors first. Then evaluate for a week or so. Maybe rear doors then. Perhaps the very rear most floor around the tire well. After doing the front and rear doors, you might be able to pick up the noise from the rear floor between the F&R seats. Between each task, drive the car for awhile and see what you think. Definitely the front doors thou.
Second Skin, Stinger Roadkill, Hushmat and Cascade are other brands besides Dynamat.
Wow. Radar; is there any chance of you posting a DIY for removing the headliner and/or rear wheel panels? Or linking to one? Cuz I really want to get in those places but I just don't even know where to start pulling.
Got all 4 doors done and the spare tire area. Wanna do the floor, ceiling, and the rear panels.
Wow. Radar; is there any chance of you posting a DIY for removing the headliner and/or rear wheel panels? Or linking to one? Cuz I really want to get in those places but I just don't even know where to start pulling.
Got all 4 doors done and the spare tire area. Wanna do the floor, ceiling, and the rear panels.
Perfect. That was exactly what I needed... Now that I see nifty new fabrics I think I might wait until I find a good fabric to tear out my headliner and get 2 things done at once.
Now I just need to figure out how to get to the floor and the rear panels.
Several people have suggested lining the wheel wells with batting or foam rubber. What about spun fiberglass insulation? Unlike polyester batting or foam rubber, this is completely inert. I've got some really old hi fi speakers whose enclosures are lined with the stuff.
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Microsoft has a majority market share in the new desktop PC marketplace.
This is a bug, which Ubuntu is designed to fix.
Thanks for posting that Mike. I didn't have any how to stuff. I did my car two years ago and can't remember last week most of the time. If you are going to do any foam/insulation in the quarter panels, you want High-Density foam. This can be similar to foam rubber. Go to a fabric store and see what you can find. Polyfill and fiberglass batting doesn't have as much effect. Dampening the rear floors with Dynamat-type stuff is the first step in my opinion thou.
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