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Soundproofing a fit, inside and/or out

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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 02:50 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by radareclipse
Thanks that clarifying Black3sr. The way it was worded, I didn't get it.
Yes, it is hard to hear outside the car. But you would be surprised how many people want me to open the doors and judge it by how far they can hear it down the road. They just don't get it. With 78 lbs of Dynamat, it was made to listen to "closely" in the car.
OK I hear you.

Now how do you get the groceries in there? If I did that I would have to take the Caravan to the grocery store.
 
Old Sep 14, 2009 | 04:22 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by radareclipse
Thanks that clarifying Black3sr. The way it was worded, I didn't get it.
Yes, it is hard to hear outside the car. But you would be surprised how many people want me to open the doors and judge it by how far they can hear it down the road. They just don't get it. With 78 lbs of Dynamat, it was made to listen to "closely" in the car.

78 lbs? What'd you use as far as square feet goes? I only did about 3/4 of what I wanted to and I ended up with about 75 square feet in my car. I don't know how. And I still have to do the front doors, under the hood and maybe one day under the headliner. But after having put my amps in the other night, it seriously sounds incredible. Certainly worth the work and money. One of the best upgrades you can do in an economy car.
 
Old Sep 14, 2009 | 10:53 AM
  #23  
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I did boxes of Dynamat and weighed along the way for shits and grins. I didn't even consider to keep count on the square footage. I did it two years ago.
Off the top of my head, 9 lbs each front door. I'm surprised the hinges took it but they did. 6 lbs in each rear door and I don't even have speakers in them.
10 lbs in the headliner with just one solid layer. The rest is in the floor. Don't waste your time on the hood. You only need to do the headliner if your going to put a crankin' stereo in the car with lots of sub-bass.
 
Old Sep 14, 2009 | 09:44 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by mike410
Yeah I did both the inner and outer skin of the door
So you have to wedge in the material through the hole against the inner-outside skin of the door. Sounds like a recipe for frustration.

Wish I knew some local audio guys.
 
Old Sep 14, 2009 | 09:51 PM
  #25  
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not frustration but just very time consuming. It helped that my arms are quite skinny and long so it was easy for me to reach most spots. It only resulted in a handful of little cuts on my arms, wrists and hands.

was it worth it? yes!

would I do it again? yes and I did help my friend do his doors as well.
 
Old Sep 15, 2009 | 08:49 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Black3sr
OK I hear you.

Now how do you get the groceries in there? If I did that I would have to take the Caravan to the grocery store.
They "FIT" nicely in the back seat. Although I have a couple of cars. I use the Fit for shows or just for weekend drives while I'm crankin' a little. Is your avatar suppose to be Hershey kisses, or poooooooop?
 
Old Sep 15, 2009 | 11:13 AM
  #27  
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Based on my limited understanding of sound proofing, sound deadening material, such as Dynamat, is most effective applied to metal surfaces (such as the outer sheet metal of the door), where it damps vibrations. Sound absorbing material, on the other hand, such as closed-cell neoprene, is more effective in other locations, or even over the Dynamat. I'm not sure the gain is worth the effort (and weight) to put Dynamat on the inner door surfaces; closed cell foam might be more effective there -- if it's not too thick to permit re-attaching the door panels. I'm not saying that Dynamat isn't effective in this location, just that it might not be cost/weight effective.
 
Old Sep 15, 2009 | 10:52 PM
  #28  
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It's plenty cost/weight effective. Closed cell foam would work well under the door panel on the door surface after applying dampening. Honda's doesn't allow enough clearance if I remember to put anything too thick under the door panel.
 

Last edited by radareclipse; Sep 15, 2009 at 11:07 PM.
Old Sep 15, 2009 | 11:20 PM
  #29  
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Stock door:


Removed the moisture barrier:


Some damping inside the door:


Forgot to photograph the same side of the car - damping material covered thoroughly inside the door:


Sealed up with HD temperature duct tape:


Dynamat added to cover the whole door:


I usually cover the door lock rod in plastic (usually a Subway bag because I'm eating my lunch) so it will still have some play and won't be stuck to the damping material. You want your door lock to still work!
 
Old Sep 15, 2009 | 11:22 PM
  #30  
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nice job!
now don't delete those pictures! I'm bookmarking this page as a reference for when I do mine
 
Old Sep 15, 2009 | 11:23 PM
  #31  
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Stock roof line:


Now with 10 lbs added:


One solid layer worked wonders for keeping my bass in the car and lowering reverberation. The energy transfers to the windshield and that moves up to a 1/4 inch or so. I had some Dynaliner (closed cell foam) but never used it in the doors. Just some on the rear floor between the front and rear seats. These pictures are for the benefit of others that would like to do this. Don't hesitate to positive rep me.
 

Last edited by radareclipse; Sep 15, 2009 at 11:25 PM.
Old Sep 16, 2009 | 12:46 AM
  #32  
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Radar +rep for taking the time to even think of all that soundproofing


Question for everyone (not to hijack the thread)

What 3 areas would be best to focus on to soundproof w/o getting flat broke?

I've price checked a lot of sound materials, some cheaper than others and besides dyna mat i have no clue what is what anymore and i'm unsure of sizes/needs b/c i don't know where to focus.

To most effectively increase my comforts should i soundproof:

Front doors, back seat floor, back doors?
Ceiling, front doors, boot/trunk?
Front doors, back seat floor, roof?
Other?

What would be the most bang for the buck? Better yet, what would be most do-able solo? I know i'm not going to have an accomplice when i'm doing this....
 
Old Sep 16, 2009 | 12:59 AM
  #33  
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Do the front doors first. Then evaluate for a week or so. Maybe rear doors then. Perhaps the very rear most floor around the tire well. After doing the front and rear doors, you might be able to pick up the noise from the rear floor between the F&R seats. Between each task, drive the car for awhile and see what you think. Definitely the front doors thou.

Second Skin, Stinger Roadkill, Hushmat and Cascade are other brands besides Dynamat.
 
Old Sep 23, 2009 | 12:36 PM
  #34  
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Wow. Radar; is there any chance of you posting a DIY for removing the headliner and/or rear wheel panels? Or linking to one? Cuz I really want to get in those places but I just don't even know where to start pulling.

Got all 4 doors done and the spare tire area. Wanna do the floor, ceiling, and the rear panels.
 
Old Sep 23, 2009 | 12:42 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by TrickyPantz
Wow. Radar; is there any chance of you posting a DIY for removing the headliner and/or rear wheel panels? Or linking to one? Cuz I really want to get in those places but I just don't even know where to start pulling.

Got all 4 doors done and the spare tire area. Wanna do the floor, ceiling, and the rear panels.

this should help you a bit

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...tml#post670573
 
Old Sep 23, 2009 | 01:11 PM
  #36  
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Thumbs up

Perfect. That was exactly what I needed... Now that I see nifty new fabrics I think I might wait until I find a good fabric to tear out my headliner and get 2 things done at once.

Now I just need to figure out how to get to the floor and the rear panels.
 
Old Sep 23, 2009 | 01:55 PM
  #37  
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Several people have suggested lining the wheel wells with batting or foam rubber. What about spun fiberglass insulation? Unlike polyester batting or foam rubber, this is completely inert. I've got some really old hi fi speakers whose enclosures are lined with the stuff.
 
Old Sep 25, 2009 | 09:12 AM
  #38  
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Thanks for posting that Mike. I didn't have any how to stuff. I did my car two years ago and can't remember last week most of the time. If you are going to do any foam/insulation in the quarter panels, you want High-Density foam. This can be similar to foam rubber. Go to a fabric store and see what you can find. Polyfill and fiberglass batting doesn't have as much effect. Dampening the rear floors with Dynamat-type stuff is the first step in my opinion thou.
 
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