I saw their 300mm STL StopTech caliper kit and a few other kits, but not the lines only available.
I assume that's the only way to get them or I missed it trying to search on their website.

 

Their Site is terrible. Just shoot Brian Hasty an email, Facebook message, or call him. He's fast to reply. He has some unique products for our chassis that aren't listed. Like the parking brake cable adapters I'm running so I can use the stock cables with RSX rear calipers.

 

Interesting, we only got the L15A1 in the states (for the first gen) and all Fits have 4 spark plugs.



All the others I've seen also use the adapter block.
My Powerstop ones have it.
Not a huge fan of them all being made out of brass or super soft metal though.

 

I'll send him an email then. I also came across a video on YouTube about the conversion.
"PROJECT Fastbrakes Fit PART 1 Big Brake Kit and Rear Disc Conversion"

 

So even with the Spoon wide angle mirror in the car I still found the Fit to have giant blind spots and I also merged into people a few times thinking nobody was there.

I decided to try something out to see if I liked it, and so far it's been a great upgrade.
I ordered a 5 panel rearview mirror and made some quick brackets to set it as far forward as I could so that the visors are still usable and I have as much visibility as possible.

Brackets are two pieces of flat stock welded together, bent, and drilled.




Mirror installed:




Visor down:




It's been a fantastic upgrade for me and I'm very happy that I decided to try it.
I want to eventually build a center support bracket that bolts to the factory mirror location to see if it takes away the small amount of vibration that the mirror sometimes experiences (my only gripe so far).
It allows me to see everything around me without having to move my head at all and I haven't had any close calls with merging since installation (yay safety!).

The day after the mirror install was the long awaited dyno day!

I did all the necessary preparation the week prior, did a bolt check, had extra plugs with me just in case, and all around tried to be as prepared as possible.

I got up way too early that morning (around 4am) because I was too excited to sleep and had to leave my place fairly early to make the drive down to the tuner.

A couple days before the appointment (when bleeding brakes after doing the front brake lines) I had noticed that my rear brakes were not being activated by the foot brake but would lock up by the hand brake just fine.
I bled the rears, fluid would come out, and still no lock up.
I adjusted the self adjuster, parking brake got tighter (it was still within spec before) and still no foot brake action.
I tried swapping rear wheel cylinders and re-bleeding, and still nothing. Weird.

So the drive down to the tune appointment was mostly highway and just on front brakes, which was sketchy but manageable.
I kept my distance from vehicles in front of me and tried to be conscious about the situation, but I wasn't going to miss my appointment.
The drive was pretty uneventful, other than one hard brake where traffic stopped all of a sudden and the car wanted to pull slightly to one side.
I chalked it up to worn pads/rotors, which I was planning on replacing anyway, and continued on my way.

I got to the tuner (RCautoworks) and dropped my car off and went to catch up on some book work at a local Starbucks.
Shortly after, I get a message saying that my brakes are leaking along with these pictures:







I ask if that will be an issue that will keep the session from being finished, and they assure me that it won't be a problem, and that they'll also try to snug up the line to see if that's all it is and also top off the brake fluid before I leave (which they didn't charge me for, dudes at RC were great to deal with).

Here's a clip of the car on the dyno, I'll let you guess what it made before posting numbers up on my next update. (Spoiler alert: don't read the video description!)

 

101hp is my guess

 

Ours made 98whp basically stock (IK22's, K&N panel filter, HFP axle back) on a Dynojet, so I'm going to go with that as my guess.

 

Car made 91.14whp on the stock tune with bolt ons, and bumped up to 103.86whp/100.93ft-lbs of torque after the tune.




I'm super happy with the gains and the way the car feels since having the dyno tune done, it's been a huge difference.
Rpm limit was raised to 7200, low end response is way better, and the bump in power is noticeable throughout.
I could definitely get some more power out of it if I got an intake and used premium, but since I drive the car so much I just use 87 octane (I have the EK for something with actual power).

I had to be careful on the way home because of the leaking brake line and no rear brakes meant I was doing all my braking with one corner and it was pretty dicey at times but I eventually got some safely.

I got my car up on the lift and was able to just tighten the brake line fitting at the distribution block for the front left and it got rid of the leak.

I rebled the brakes, and still nothing in the rear.
Took them apart, checked everything, everything was good, including fluid getting to the rear while bleeding.

​​​​​​Ordered new wheel cylinders thinking they must be bad (weird that they both would be) and put one on to test, and the rear brakes still weren't engaging.

The car had an ABS code on since I got it due to bad communication between the front left sensor and wheel bearing. The sensor had been replaced and it still had the code, so when I ordered bearings I got all 4 of them (along with 4 sets of ARP studs).

I figured fixing that code would be my hail mary to try to fix this brake issue, so I did front wheel bearings and studs as preparation for track days and to see what it would do to the braking system.







I didn't have time to try re-bleeding the brakes until about a week later, and somehow magically the rears started to work.

I still don't know if it was getting rid of the ABS issue (that doesn't quite make sense to me) or just bleeding the system out more or what, but I finally had fully functional brakes!

The weather finally started to break and I threw the Advans and 200tw Falkens on and took it for a rip.



Even with all 4 corners working, the brakes still left a lot to be desired, and so the next chapter unfolds...

 

That's wild, man. Love the progress. I should look into a tune soon. And a brake bleed lol

 

103whp....nice results!

 

Tune makes a huge difference, super worth it.
I see people neglect brake fluid all the time, it's a simple maintenance item that also makes a difference.

I was hoping for closer to 110, but not mad at it.
The tech sheet for the tuner ask what my goal was, and I said I just wanted to break into triple digits, lol.
I wouldn't mind getting a nice intake for the car and seeing what that does, but the J's and similar intakes that aren't just an open filter are expensive and I would rather save that money to put towards track days or future boost plans.

 

Love the car and the mods thus far! Dyno chart looks good, solid gains!

 

Lots to update on here and I've been doing a terrible job of keeping this thread up to date.

So even with all 4 corners braking properly the brakes still left a lot to be desired.

I mulled over what I should do as an upgrade:
-Upgrade pad compound and new rotors in front + Integra rear disc conversion
-Mini/ITR fronts + Integra rear disc conversion
-Mini/ITR fronts + EP3 rear conversion

I decided to match the setup that I have on my EK as I could swap track consumables between the two cars instead of having to buy a dedicated set for each, so I got a parts list together and started sourcing everything.

I got ITR front calipers and EP3 rear calipers, all of them are reman OEM castings from AutoZone, and prepped them for paint.




I used G2 epoxy caliper paint as I've had really good results with it in the past.
Everything got 3 coats of paint before allowing to sit for 24hrs to cure.



​​​​​​
I tried my best not to get paint anywhere that a pad or hardware needed to be, but inevitably there were areas that needed attention.
I used a razor blade and sanding block to bring any areas that needed to be flat/unpainted back to par and laid everything out for assembly.




I then cleaned, lubed, and assembled the calipers and brackets and laid them out in order so to be ready for installation.
I used the FastBrakes parking brake cable adapter brackets which I painted black for a cleaner look.




Doing the fronts was really easy.
Just remove the factory caliper and rotor, install the Mini rotor (I also used lug centric stud shims to better center the rotor, they're not necessary but are nice to have), trim the heat shield slightly to fit the larger caliper, and bolt the caliper on.

The rear on the other hand, was quite a bit more of a process.

After removing all the factory drum components and factory brake hardline, undoing the 4 bolts that hold the spindle on and installing the caliper adapter bracket was easy.
When I went to go mount the rotor and caliper, I discovered that I needed a shim behind the rotor to center the rotor on the caliper bracket, so I emailed Scarebird and ordered some (worked on the master cylinder in the meantime)




After getting these in, everything fit like it was supposed to and I was able to get the rear all dry fit.
I really think that these should be sold with the brackets as a kit (I think they're a an updated bracket design coming out? Not sure if it eliminates the need for these)




After that was done and I got the braided rear brake lines routed, I moved onto the parking brake cables which was a complete nightmare.
No matter how I ran the cables, they ended up being about an inch short from reaching the caliper or sitting properly within the adapter bracket.




After some research and talking to some other members I found out that the Scarebird brackets put the caliper higher up instead of perpendicular with the ground, and because of that nothing was lining up.
I did something that I'm not super happy about and will revisit which is undoing all the mounting points on the brake cables to create enough slack to get the ends to meet the calipers.
This meant that the right side cable had to run under the exhaust instead of tucking above it, so I went out and got some DEI line heat wrap to keep it from rubbing and/or melting the cable.





I used a couple metal clamps to keep it rolled up tight and in place, and it's been working well for now.




I also used a couple C clips (I know an E clip is pictured, but I later went and replaced them to be more secure) on the end of the cables to keep them securely attached to the brackets.




The master cylinder was another large P.I.T.A. that I was not expecting.
I decided to use the Integra Type R 1" master cylinder as the caliper and rotor sizing is the same on the car now and I also have had great results using that on other vehicles with the same brake setup.
Luckily the booster mounting and reservoir mounting dimensions are identical to that of the stock Fit master cylinder, but the brake lines are different, which is where I spent a lot of time.
I had completely forgotten that the Fit uses a bubble style flare, and that the ITR master uses a double style flare, so I removed the two lines coming from the master to the ABS pump completely off the car, cut the ends off, related the ends, and bent the lines to fit the ITR master.
Doing so took about a half a day and was super tedious and frustrating, but the final product is great and I don't have any adapters or junctions to worry about in the future.




I would love to design a master cylinder stopper that uses the existing holes in the strut tower, adding a stopper to my EK made a huge difference in pedal feel.
The sheet metal on these cars is very thing, and firewall flex is visible while bleeding the brake system.

While I had everything under the hood torn apart I also decided to clean up the brackets for the TCS strut tower bar since they had seen better days.

I don't have any pics of them finished since I was in a rush to get everything together, but I just painted them black to match the car.




I got the brakes bled and took the car out to bed the pads in.
I'm using Powerstop Track Day pads and Centric blank rotors on all 4 corners along with Motul RBF600, and the brakes are finally good on the car - almost too good.
I started out by doing 60-10mph stops ten times in a row, then drove a few minutes to let the brakes cool, and then did 80-20mph stops ten times in a row.
People probably thought that I was crazy, or drunk, or both, but I was able to find a decent back road to do this on and surprisingly didn't get the cops called on me.
The car can now stop aggressively enough without losing traction that it feels like the rear wheels are about to lift off the ground.







Fronts may have gotten a little hot



That about sums up all the mechanical work I've done on the car so far.
I did tinker with a couple other things and also attended a track day last weekend which I'm still sorting through media from.
I'll update those on here soon.

 

I'm currently putting together the necessary parts for my rear disc conversion and surprised you ran into this issue, are you running the EP3/RSX rear caliper or the DC2 ? I also have the Scarebird bracket but didn't know that this spacer was needed, I really can't give up any more negative offset to run that spacer. Now I'm thinking about ditching the scarebird all together and just go all FastBrakes parts, which doesn't use a spacer.

Something that might help you is running the Acura Legend parking brake cables as mentioned in this rear disc conversion thread https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...onversion.html

PARKING BRAKE CABLES
-87 acura legend coupe: BC94043 rear left; BC94044 rear right - Rockauto
-holding and cotter pin: 43471-SD2-930 holding pin, 90705-SD2-931 cotter pin - Hondapartsnow

 

I wanted to switch to the FastBrakes brackets so I contacted them. Their current offering is for 11" rotors which means you have to run re-drilled rotors.

For now, I guess I'm going to live with the parking brake cable issue because I don't want to give up my fairly new EBC rotors and I don't really want to have to always run modified rotors either.

That, or I'll look into the Legend cables. I had read that thread years ago and bought those cables at that time on clearance. Switched my plan to using the FastBrakes bracket when it came out so that's what I went with. Guess I should check the Legend cable option since I have them laying around somewhere.

 

I have been slacking on updates, and there's been a decent amount to update you on.

Track Day at Gingerman Raceway with GPSTrackTime was a blast.



It rained like crazy on the way up to the point where I was doing 20mph on the highway and could only see a couple feet in front of me, there was a semi truck that tipped over, and it was definitely one of my longest drives to the track but eventually made it out and had a nice dinner in town.
I got an inflatable mattress that fits perfectly in the back of the car and got some decent sleep while it stormed outside.




Next morning, things had dried up for the most part, and I threw the Advans with 200TW tires on the car.




Ran beginner group since I hadn't done any track driving since late 2019, and I definitely had to shake the rust off and get back into the swing of things.
There wasn't direct instructor type of learning, but I knew enough people at the event to where I was able to get some more experienced drivers to give me pointers and had one of my friends jump in the car with me to go do some laps and instruct a bit.
























All was great, and I was offered to drive my friend's ITR swapped Integra sedan for the last session of Saturday.
The car has tried to kill me before while he was driving (rear wheel hub failed at Road Atlanta and sent us spinning into a tire wall) and I knew that the car could be pretty sketchy to drive but I was really chasing a sub 2:00 lap and I knew I could knock it out in his car, so I went for it.
Well, after a lot of commenting out how loose the rear end got under hard braking, this happened:

It was pretty scary to get that close to the corner worker, and I decided to call it good for the weekend at that point since it was supposed to rain again on Sunday and I felt that I had pushed my luck enough as it was.
I was able to find someone to buy my Sunday ticket, my buddy and I made friends with the track security guys, and ended up hanging out drinking and sharing stories between all of us until like 3am.
Was a great time all around and we got brunch the next day, then drove home in another crazy storm.

 

Got a quick edit done of my best lap of the weekend, I'm still incredibly slow.