someone help with brake job DIY
#1
someone help with brake job DIY
i've tried searching, nothing comes up. stupid website wont let me search for words with "three letters or less".- mods please get this changed! anyways, can anyone find me a link on a front brake DIY for my GD3?
#3
If you don't feel like you can do this, take it to someone who can. When you're working without a shop manual you'll have to use your best judgement with a lot of things, and because of that neither I nor Fitfreak.net will assume responsibility for your screwing up.
The biggest safety issue is jacking the car up, so do it properly and for the LOVE don't work on it when it's lifted by just a jack. Use stands.
Every honda is essentially the same when it comes to front brakes. Floating caliper, two caliper slides with each a bolt (14mm head) torqued in the neighborhood of 20-25 lb-ft, two mounting bolts on the back (17mm head) torqued to about 80 lb-ft, the pads, and the stamped springy part.
Set e-brake, jack the front of car, put on jack stands, chock the rears.
Remove tire. Use impact to remove phillips screws in disc (if replacing disc).
Remove two 14mm slide bolts. Hang caliper on wire from the coil spring to save brake line.
Remove two 17mm bolts that hold the rest of ass'y to hub.
Take outside, remove old pads, scrub excess dust off. Don't breathe the asbestos.
If you use brake cleaner, KEEP IT OFF anything rubber.
Make sure caliper slides have good boots and slide smoothly.
If you're switching discs, now's the time to do it.
Install new pads, with grease like it was OEM. Grease comes in box with new pads.
Use C-clamp to compress the caliper piston, otherwise it won't fit over new pads.
Tighten the back two 17mm bolts to spec (should be 80 lb-ft).
Put caliper over ass'y and bolt to slides. 14mm bolts only take about 20 lb-ft.
Put tire back on.
Lather, rinse, repeat.
The biggest safety issue is jacking the car up, so do it properly and for the LOVE don't work on it when it's lifted by just a jack. Use stands.
Every honda is essentially the same when it comes to front brakes. Floating caliper, two caliper slides with each a bolt (14mm head) torqued in the neighborhood of 20-25 lb-ft, two mounting bolts on the back (17mm head) torqued to about 80 lb-ft, the pads, and the stamped springy part.
Set e-brake, jack the front of car, put on jack stands, chock the rears.
Remove tire. Use impact to remove phillips screws in disc (if replacing disc).
Remove two 14mm slide bolts. Hang caliper on wire from the coil spring to save brake line.
Remove two 17mm bolts that hold the rest of ass'y to hub.
Take outside, remove old pads, scrub excess dust off. Don't breathe the asbestos.
If you use brake cleaner, KEEP IT OFF anything rubber.
Make sure caliper slides have good boots and slide smoothly.
If you're switching discs, now's the time to do it.
Install new pads, with grease like it was OEM. Grease comes in box with new pads.
Use C-clamp to compress the caliper piston, otherwise it won't fit over new pads.
Tighten the back two 17mm bolts to spec (should be 80 lb-ft).
Put caliper over ass'y and bolt to slides. 14mm bolts only take about 20 lb-ft.
Put tire back on.
Lather, rinse, repeat.
Last edited by polaski; 12-21-2008 at 01:08 AM.
#5
thanks...
ya ive done a lot of brake jobs on hondas, but never on something this new. like what about the abs sensor? it never hurts to ask and see what comes up. the whole reason i asked for a link to a DIY is that i didn't want to post "i need advice for front brake change" and then get flamed for "not searching" like so many ppl here do. that's never made sense to me. and i know its off topic, but why in the heck do ppl get so uptight about someone asking a simple question? yes they should search. but what if the search engine wont allow it? for instance, this website didn't let me find anything containing the words "DIY".
#7
Better late than never
If I had seen this thread earlier, I would have posted this but I was just checking to see what size wrenches/sockets in needed to have on hand as I am going to replace the front pads and rotors on my '07, mainly so I don't have to think about it again before I trade (probably for an Urban SUV in a few years). At just over 75,000 miles I still have the original pads, and drive in urban/city traffic back and forth to work 35 miles/day.
Anyway, a step was left off early on in the above instructions: loosen the cap on the brake fluid reservoir. I have seen new techs forget this and destroy a brake fluid reservoir when they compressed the piston. Of course, you need to tighten the cap back up before you pump up the brakes at the end, another step not to miss. More than once I have seen a car back out of a service bay and stop inches from the car on the other side of the shop as the tech frantically pumped the brakes after doing a break job. Need to be sure they work BEFORE you shift out of park.
Anyway, a step was left off early on in the above instructions: loosen the cap on the brake fluid reservoir. I have seen new techs forget this and destroy a brake fluid reservoir when they compressed the piston. Of course, you need to tighten the cap back up before you pump up the brakes at the end, another step not to miss. More than once I have seen a car back out of a service bay and stop inches from the car on the other side of the shop as the tech frantically pumped the brakes after doing a break job. Need to be sure they work BEFORE you shift out of park.
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