Is there a DIY for my front brakes as well as rear brakes????
#3
Mmmh... When you talk about changing brakes what are you talking about? Pads, rotors, lines, calipers, drums, shoes? Are you familiar with these terms? All of this is pretty much straight forward, but please specify what you need to know exactly
I'll be glad to help! Btw how many miles do you have on the fit?
I'll be glad to help! Btw how many miles do you have on the fit?
#4
I dont think that there is one on FF that I know of. Brake jobs are pretty much the same on all cars. I'll give ya a quick overview on the front brakes as I've done brakes on several cars over the years. I have never done the drum brakes on my fit.
First step jack up the front end of the car and use a good set of jack stands. Remove the front wheels. Then on the back side of the caliper you'll find an upper and a lower bolt. If I remember correctly the upper one is 17mm and the lower is 12 or 13mm. You need to remove both of these bolts and the caliper will come off of the bracket. I usually bend up a wire coat hanger and hook the caliper onto the springs or upper control arm so there's no strain put on the brake line. The brake pads will be visible and you'll need to remove them at this point. Then there are two more bolts that hold on the caliper bracket. I cant remember what size they are, probably 17mm. Once that is removed you'll have just the bare rotor and the lugs sticking out. There are two large phillips head rotor screws that will need to be removed to replace the rotors. I recommend using an impact driver for these, you can pick them up at any automotive and most all hardware stores. Once the rotor is off you can replace it or have it turned. Be sure to spray down the new/turned rotor with some brake cleaner spray before re-installing it.
When putting the rotors back on you dont have to tighten the rotor screws all that tight as the rotation of the rotor will tighten itself in. Once the rotors are in place put the caliper bracket back in place. Then it's time for the new brake pads. The pad with the tab on it goes on the outside. Be sure to put a little anti-sqeal on the metal shims. Then to put the caliper back on you'll need a caliper press to push the piston back down. I usually un-cap the brake fluid reservoir to make it go a little easier. Then bolt the caliper back on and cap the reservoir. Once you're done with both sides you'll have to pump the brake pedal several times to get the pressure back up.
I assume no responsibility nor does fitfreak for any injuries, damage, or other messed up stuff that may happen.
With all that said it's a pretty simple job. I did my front brakes @ 41,919 miles and the front pads were at the wear indicator. I'm sure someone on here has done the rear drums lately and can chime in.
First step jack up the front end of the car and use a good set of jack stands. Remove the front wheels. Then on the back side of the caliper you'll find an upper and a lower bolt. If I remember correctly the upper one is 17mm and the lower is 12 or 13mm. You need to remove both of these bolts and the caliper will come off of the bracket. I usually bend up a wire coat hanger and hook the caliper onto the springs or upper control arm so there's no strain put on the brake line. The brake pads will be visible and you'll need to remove them at this point. Then there are two more bolts that hold on the caliper bracket. I cant remember what size they are, probably 17mm. Once that is removed you'll have just the bare rotor and the lugs sticking out. There are two large phillips head rotor screws that will need to be removed to replace the rotors. I recommend using an impact driver for these, you can pick them up at any automotive and most all hardware stores. Once the rotor is off you can replace it or have it turned. Be sure to spray down the new/turned rotor with some brake cleaner spray before re-installing it.
When putting the rotors back on you dont have to tighten the rotor screws all that tight as the rotation of the rotor will tighten itself in. Once the rotors are in place put the caliper bracket back in place. Then it's time for the new brake pads. The pad with the tab on it goes on the outside. Be sure to put a little anti-sqeal on the metal shims. Then to put the caliper back on you'll need a caliper press to push the piston back down. I usually un-cap the brake fluid reservoir to make it go a little easier. Then bolt the caliper back on and cap the reservoir. Once you're done with both sides you'll have to pump the brake pedal several times to get the pressure back up.
I assume no responsibility nor does fitfreak for any injuries, damage, or other messed up stuff that may happen.
With all that said it's a pretty simple job. I did my front brakes @ 41,919 miles and the front pads were at the wear indicator. I'm sure someone on here has done the rear drums lately and can chime in.
Last edited by alvarospatchez; 11-23-2010 at 08:04 PM.
#5
Check this video out, you can get loads of videos on youtube if you do a search.
YouTube - Maintenance and How-to: Changing Break Pads
YouTube - Maintenance and How-to: Changing Break Pads
#6
basically what alvaro said... except maybe a few things... personally i don't remove the cap on the reservoir, and it works well, and humidity is extremely bad to brake fluid... and as long as you don't change your fluid, bleeding should'nt be necessary IMO
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