What did you do to the GD Fit today?
New Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 14
From: Perth
installed fog lights on my base model today 
very happy with the results! looks much better with fogs imho.
also hooked up my jazzy brake lights to my aftermarket keyless entry light beep thing. The one that goes blip blip when the alarm is activated.
she needs a wash.
very happy with the results! looks much better with fogs imho.also hooked up my jazzy brake lights to my aftermarket keyless entry light beep thing. The one that goes blip blip when the alarm is activated.
she needs a wash.
I personally would not run slotted, dimpled, and/or drilled rotors on a vehicle that is solely being daily driven since to me it would be a bit overkill. If you do a lot of long freeway/highway stints without braking for long periods of time, you could potentially come in a situation where you NEED to panic stop and have a brief moment of were you brake... feel nothing for a split second... and then the car finally starts hauling down to a stop.
I've had this happen before coming home from work after some idiot placed merge/lane closed signs of the blind side of a bridge (couldn't see it till after you crested the bridge) making a hella sketchy last minute merge. I was running the EBC USR 850s with Hawk's Performance Ceramic pads at the time and traffic had almost stopped at the crest of the bridge. An 18-wheeler was a good 4 or 5 truck lengths ahead of me suddenly locked up his brakes because of stopped/slow moving traffic. I had just started going up the bridge and braked hard as soon as I saw this. Didn't feel any brake feedback for a moment then finally began to stop after the pads built up some heat... ended up being maybe 5 to 8 feet front the rear bumper on that box trailer. Didn't feel ABS kick at all, I promptly ordered my AX6s the next day.
Anyway, that's my long winded opinion on why I wouldn't run slotted rotors on a daily driven car. If you do, make sure you have a pad with a friction material that features a GOOD COLD BITE otherwise you could be in a situation like I was in. Definitely put in some research before you buy.
Braided Stainless Steel brake lines are a good investment, I'm running some from Techna-Fit and how much firmer the brake pedal feels along with how much easier I can modulate during braking when autocrossing. When and if you do get BSS lines, make sure that if you install them yourself that you make sure you can go lock-to-lock and that there is no binding in the lines. My first pair of front lines from Techna-Fit would rub against my wheels during full lock turns due a design defect, I had to contact them and get new lines made to correct this... These new/updated lines should be in their catalog as well.
As for brake fluid, it wouldn't hurt to step up to say a DOT 4 fluid... but for mild, daily use (I.E. No autocross or road racing) DOT 3 is fine in my honest opinion. I personally am running Motul RBF600 which is a DOT 4 brake fluid.
I've had this happen before coming home from work after some idiot placed merge/lane closed signs of the blind side of a bridge (couldn't see it till after you crested the bridge) making a hella sketchy last minute merge. I was running the EBC USR 850s with Hawk's Performance Ceramic pads at the time and traffic had almost stopped at the crest of the bridge. An 18-wheeler was a good 4 or 5 truck lengths ahead of me suddenly locked up his brakes because of stopped/slow moving traffic. I had just started going up the bridge and braked hard as soon as I saw this. Didn't feel any brake feedback for a moment then finally began to stop after the pads built up some heat... ended up being maybe 5 to 8 feet front the rear bumper on that box trailer. Didn't feel ABS kick at all, I promptly ordered my AX6s the next day.
Anyway, that's my long winded opinion on why I wouldn't run slotted rotors on a daily driven car. If you do, make sure you have a pad with a friction material that features a GOOD COLD BITE otherwise you could be in a situation like I was in. Definitely put in some research before you buy.
Braided Stainless Steel brake lines are a good investment, I'm running some from Techna-Fit and how much firmer the brake pedal feels along with how much easier I can modulate during braking when autocrossing. When and if you do get BSS lines, make sure that if you install them yourself that you make sure you can go lock-to-lock and that there is no binding in the lines. My first pair of front lines from Techna-Fit would rub against my wheels during full lock turns due a design defect, I had to contact them and get new lines made to correct this... These new/updated lines should be in their catalog as well.
As for brake fluid, it wouldn't hurt to step up to say a DOT 4 fluid... but for mild, daily use (I.E. No autocross or road racing) DOT 3 is fine in my honest opinion. I personally am running Motul RBF600 which is a DOT 4 brake fluid.
I personally would not run slotted, dimpled, and/or drilled rotors on a vehicle that is solely being daily driven since to me it would be a bit overkill. If you do a lot of long freeway/highway stints without braking for long periods of time, you could potentially come in a situation where you NEED to panic stop and have a brief moment of were you brake... feel nothing for a split second... and then the car finally starts hauling down to a stop.
I've had this happen before coming home from work after some idiot placed merge/lane closed signs of the blind side of a bridge (couldn't see it till after you crested the bridge) making a hella sketchy last minute merge. I was running the EBC USR 850s with Hawk's Performance Ceramic pads at the time and traffic had almost stopped at the crest of the bridge. An 18-wheeler was a good 4 or 5 truck lengths ahead of me suddenly locked up his brakes because of stopped/slow moving traffic. I had just started going up the bridge and braked hard as soon as I saw this. Didn't feel any brake feedback for a moment then finally began to stop after the pads built up some heat... ended up being maybe 5 to 8 feet front the rear bumper on that box trailer. Didn't feel ABS kick at all, I promptly ordered my AX6s the next day.
Anyway, that's my long winded opinion on why I wouldn't run slotted rotors on a daily driven car. If you do, make sure you have a pad with a friction material that features a GOOD COLD BITE otherwise you could be in a situation like I was in. Definitely put in some research before you buy.
Braided Stainless Steel brake lines are a good investment, I'm running some from Techna-Fit and how much firmer the brake pedal feels along with how much easier I can modulate during braking when autocrossing. When and if you do get BSS lines, make sure that if you install them yourself that you make sure you can go lock-to-lock and that there is no binding in the lines. My first pair of front lines from Techna-Fit would rub against my wheels during full lock turns due a design defect, I had to contact them and get new lines made to correct this... These new/updated lines should be in their catalog as well.
As for brake fluid, it wouldn't hurt to step up to say a DOT 4 fluid... but for mild, daily use (I.E. No autocross or road racing) DOT 3 is fine in my honest opinion. I personally am running Motul RBF600 which is a DOT 4 brake fluid.
I've had this happen before coming home from work after some idiot placed merge/lane closed signs of the blind side of a bridge (couldn't see it till after you crested the bridge) making a hella sketchy last minute merge. I was running the EBC USR 850s with Hawk's Performance Ceramic pads at the time and traffic had almost stopped at the crest of the bridge. An 18-wheeler was a good 4 or 5 truck lengths ahead of me suddenly locked up his brakes because of stopped/slow moving traffic. I had just started going up the bridge and braked hard as soon as I saw this. Didn't feel any brake feedback for a moment then finally began to stop after the pads built up some heat... ended up being maybe 5 to 8 feet front the rear bumper on that box trailer. Didn't feel ABS kick at all, I promptly ordered my AX6s the next day.
Anyway, that's my long winded opinion on why I wouldn't run slotted rotors on a daily driven car. If you do, make sure you have a pad with a friction material that features a GOOD COLD BITE otherwise you could be in a situation like I was in. Definitely put in some research before you buy.
Braided Stainless Steel brake lines are a good investment, I'm running some from Techna-Fit and how much firmer the brake pedal feels along with how much easier I can modulate during braking when autocrossing. When and if you do get BSS lines, make sure that if you install them yourself that you make sure you can go lock-to-lock and that there is no binding in the lines. My first pair of front lines from Techna-Fit would rub against my wheels during full lock turns due a design defect, I had to contact them and get new lines made to correct this... These new/updated lines should be in their catalog as well.
As for brake fluid, it wouldn't hurt to step up to say a DOT 4 fluid... but for mild, daily use (I.E. No autocross or road racing) DOT 3 is fine in my honest opinion. I personally am running Motul RBF600 which is a DOT 4 brake fluid.
That being said, I def wanted to get the Mugen SS brake lines in the near future and some ATE Super Blue Racing High Performance Brake Fluid DOT4.
With rotors and brakepads, I'm not sure what would be a good brand that has a good cold bite without too much brake dust. In the past I've used Brembo rotors and EBC brakepads but I felt the green stuff pads gave off too much brakedust. Any suggestions? I was thinking the EBC Ultimax Slotted Rotors with perhaps the AX6 pads just like you since you run auto-x.
Ordered a cheap 3 dollar LED panel to replace the dome light bulb, I already had a two LED festoon bulb in there but that wasn't even as bright as the incandescent factory bulb.
Looking to get a look like this:
The panel I ordered has 48 LEDs vs the 60 LEDs shown in the pic.
Looking to get a look like this:
The panel I ordered has 48 LEDs vs the 60 LEDs shown in the pic.
I honestly think its just the Fit's stock braking system, I had the same thing happen to me when some idiot decided to slam on his brakes for no apparent reason and my Fit did not stop in time. I had stock rotors and pads, abs did even engage and no smoke/screech from my tires. Slammed right into the guy and I was about 5 car lengths behind him.
I'm sorry to hear about your unfortunate incident though.
I'm def looking for overkill (without doing a BBK) since drivers around here are stupid. I also would feel safer knowing that I could stop on a dime.
That being said, I def wanted to get the Mugen SS brake lines in the near future and some ATE Super Blue Racing High Performance Brake Fluid DOT4.
With rotors and brakepads, I'm not sure what would be a good brand that has a good cold bite without too much brake dust. In the past I've used Brembo rotors and EBC brakepads but I felt the green stuff pads gave off too much brakedust. Any suggestions? I was thinking the EBC Ultimax Slotted Rotors with perhaps the AX6 pads just like you since you run auto-x.
That being said, I def wanted to get the Mugen SS brake lines in the near future and some ATE Super Blue Racing High Performance Brake Fluid DOT4.
With rotors and brakepads, I'm not sure what would be a good brand that has a good cold bite without too much brake dust. In the past I've used Brembo rotors and EBC brakepads but I felt the green stuff pads gave off too much brakedust. Any suggestions? I was thinking the EBC Ultimax Slotted Rotors with perhaps the AX6 pads just like you since you run auto-x.
). Keep in mind, you will see a TON of brake dust from the AX6s and if go ITR front brakes you will not be able to clear factory Sport alloys if you have some.I've been abusing the hell out of these rotors and haven't seen a hint of abnormal wearing on the rotor's surface yet. So far these seem like a good (but pricey) investment. You can get cryogenic treated rotors as blank vented rotors from "Centric" or slotted and/or drilled from "Stop Tech"... They're the same company.
Also just for the record, you can no longer readily get ATE Super Blue brake fluid. It stopped being imported into the US several months ago. I think ATE Type 200 (I think that's the name) is the amber colored equivalent to it.
I'm not sure about the braking system (mind you, not saying that you're wrong or anything)... When running the factory brakes, I didn't have an issue with braking itself (other than glazing and overheating) though I did have a few bouts with a soft/spongy pedal.
I'm sorry to hear about your unfortunate incident though.
Well if you want to do overkill, you can either do Stoptech Cryo-treated slotted rotors with the AX6s like I did or convert to the DC2R front brakes (ITR or 1st gen CR-V front calipers). Keep in mind, you will see a TON of brake dust from the AX6s and if go ITR front brakes you will not be able to clear factory Sport alloys if you have some.
I've been abusing the hell out of these rotors and haven't seen a hint of abnormal wearing on the rotor's surface yet. So far these seem like a good (but pricey) investment. You can get cryogenic treated rotors as blank vented rotors from "Centric" or slotted and/or drilled from "Stop Tech"... They're the same company.
Also just for the record, you can no longer readily get ATE Super Blue brake fluid. It stopped being imported into the US several months ago. I think ATE Type 200 (I think that's the name) is the amber colored equivalent to it.
I'm sorry to hear about your unfortunate incident though.
Well if you want to do overkill, you can either do Stoptech Cryo-treated slotted rotors with the AX6s like I did or convert to the DC2R front brakes (ITR or 1st gen CR-V front calipers
). Keep in mind, you will see a TON of brake dust from the AX6s and if go ITR front brakes you will not be able to clear factory Sport alloys if you have some.I've been abusing the hell out of these rotors and haven't seen a hint of abnormal wearing on the rotor's surface yet. So far these seem like a good (but pricey) investment. You can get cryogenic treated rotors as blank vented rotors from "Centric" or slotted and/or drilled from "Stop Tech"... They're the same company.
Also just for the record, you can no longer readily get ATE Super Blue brake fluid. It stopped being imported into the US several months ago. I think ATE Type 200 (I think that's the name) is the amber colored equivalent to it.
Brake dust isn't that big of a deal for me as long as the brake pads have a good cold bite.
Regarding the ITR calipers, if I have spacers, it should clear the stock rims right? Or would I need to upgrade to 16"s?
With the ATE super blue, you can still buy it online. But, is there a reason why it's no longer being imported here?
Super Blue is no longer legal in the US due to it being died blue.... Seriously. Breaks a federal law (although they ignored it for 15 years till someone got a bright idea 
)
More details on that can be found here: Braking News: ATE Super Blue Deemed Illegal for US Distribution*|*Hooniverse
I can confirm though that the ATE Type 200 is IDENTICAL to the Super Blue in every aspect but color
IF you have ZERO cares about dust, and want a pad with awesome cold bite I would HIGHLY recommend my setup which is:
ATE Slotted Rotors : ATE -*ATE PremiumOne® Rotors
They look neat AND actually help vent dust. I have 5K+ miles on them including HARD use and have no issues what soever with warp/crack/runout or anything else. My friend who runs Lubrify.com | Racing Fluids - AMSoil, elf, ENEOS, Lubro Moly, Mobil1, motul, Pentosin, Red Line Synthetic Motor Oils, swepco, Torco, Total can hook you up with a set at a good price, but they are cheap to start with.
He can also get you the:
HP Plus - Autocross & Track Brake Compound | Hawk Performance
These are LITTER ALLY overkill on a car for AutoX I actually shed too much speed when I use the brakes, so I will be dropping in some generic vatozone pads to see if I can speed up with less brake power 
BUT
+ They work from dead cold
+ MORE than capable of handling a track day
Buuuuuuutt
- Squeal like a train when cold
- ALL THE DUST
and that's after about only one week
)More details on that can be found here: Braking News: ATE Super Blue Deemed Illegal for US Distribution*|*Hooniverse
I can confirm though that the ATE Type 200 is IDENTICAL to the Super Blue in every aspect but color
IF you have ZERO cares about dust, and want a pad with awesome cold bite I would HIGHLY recommend my setup which is:
ATE Slotted Rotors : ATE -*ATE PremiumOne® Rotors
They look neat AND actually help vent dust. I have 5K+ miles on them including HARD use and have no issues what soever with warp/crack/runout or anything else. My friend who runs Lubrify.com | Racing Fluids - AMSoil, elf, ENEOS, Lubro Moly, Mobil1, motul, Pentosin, Red Line Synthetic Motor Oils, swepco, Torco, Total can hook you up with a set at a good price, but they are cheap to start with.
He can also get you the:
HP Plus - Autocross & Track Brake Compound | Hawk Performance
These are LITTER ALLY overkill on a car for AutoX
I actually shed too much speed when I use the brakes, so I will be dropping in some generic vatozone pads to see if I can speed up with less brake power BUT
+ They work from dead cold
+ MORE than capable of handling a track day
Buuuuuuutt
- Squeal like a train when cold
- ALL THE DUST
and that's after about only one week
How does the ATE compare to the EBC?
The ATE from what I read seems more as an OEM replacement where as the EBC is more performance braking. Anyone care to elaborate more?
Also, F the police. I'm going to get the ATE blue anyways. Haha!
The ATE from what I read seems more as an OEM replacement where as the EBC is more performance braking. Anyone care to elaborate more?
Also, F the police. I'm going to get the ATE blue anyways. Haha!
Well my fit sprung a boost leak. Found the coupler off the turbo was cracked. Replaced the coupler and now the car runs great . 2 mores weeks till my next track day. Gotta change my front wheel bearings and lower front control arms. Compliance bushings are coming apart. Also gonna order 18 k rate spring rates.Needs more ooversteer.
Finally installed my Spoon B-pipe today! So I officially have a Spoon catback now! XD
Install was cakewalk but I wish that the pipe actually had 2 nuts welded to the rear flange were the axle back bolts up to. If I didn't have 2 nylon locking nuts and 2 washers I would of had to do a quick parts run. :/ In addition to that, the rear most hanger (its a 1 point instead of 2 point) on the pipe is a different than that of the factory pipe but still managed to use the factory rubber exhaust mounts to install everything.
Going to go for a drive later on today... ^.^
Install was cakewalk but I wish that the pipe actually had 2 nuts welded to the rear flange were the axle back bolts up to. If I didn't have 2 nylon locking nuts and 2 washers I would of had to do a quick parts run. :/ In addition to that, the rear most hanger (its a 1 point instead of 2 point) on the pipe is a different than that of the factory pipe but still managed to use the factory rubber exhaust mounts to install everything.
Going to go for a drive later on today... ^.^
Can you post a video please?
Sent my J's Racing grill to the paint shop to get it repainted. Will be getting that and my JDM Modulo side skirts installed on Thursday.
I also need to restore my headlights one of these days as well... it's getting pretty foggy.
I also need to restore my headlights one of these days as well... it's getting pretty foggy.
Hey 84,
I have a 2008 and the headlights started hazing up 2 years ago. McGwire plastic polish works well at cleaning them crystal clear. It takes about 10 minutes per lens if they are cloulded up and then just when you wash the car a quick cleaning and they will stay nice for along time.
Last edited by Perrenoud Fit; Mar 4, 2014 at 06:46 PM.
gd1 interior is awesome but the motor is so mehhhhh
Hey 84,
I have a 2008 and the headlights started hazing up 2 years ago. McGwire plastic polish works well at cleaning them crystal clear. It takes about 10 minutes per lens if they are cloulded up and then just when you wash the car a quick cleaning and they will stay nice for along time.
I have a 2008 and the headlights started hazing up 2 years ago. McGwire plastic polish works well at cleaning them crystal clear. It takes about 10 minutes per lens if they are cloulded up and then just when you wash the car a quick cleaning and they will stay nice for along time.
I'll look into it. There's nothing more annoying than seeing a nice car with foggy headlights. =\
