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Cruise Control and Sports Feature out

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Old 05-14-2012, 08:29 PM
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Cruise Control and Sports Feature out

I still haven't been abel to find the solution. My cruise control won't turn on and when I shift to Sport feature, the Sports feature does not engage and I'm drivign it as if it's in D mode. Any other have similar experience and how did you fix it?
 
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Old 05-17-2012, 05:46 PM
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No one else has experience this eh?
 
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Old 05-17-2012, 08:39 PM
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In the case of the cruise control. Is the cruise button sunk into the steering wheel and showing that cruise is on but not active in your gauge cluster? Are you hitting the deceleration/set button and the cruise on and active light is showing?

As car as S (Sport), it will retain similar automatic characteristics to D BUT the shift points will be higher. IE: 1st gear ends around 10-15 MPH at light/partial throttle, 2nd ends at 25-35 MPH, 3rd at 65-75 MPH, and shifts into 4th (and not likely shifting into 5th due to not being able to achieve that speed on highways "legally").

If you were to hit either upshift or downshift paddle while in Sport; however, you will activate the "Manual" mode. Which basically makes it were the car will automatically downshift BUT YOU HAVE TO UPSHIFT or you'll hit the rev limiter/fuel cut.
 
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Old 05-18-2012, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Hootie
In the case of the cruise control. Is the cruise button sunk into the steering wheel and showing that cruise is on but not active in your gauge cluster? Are you hitting the deceleration/set button and the cruise on and active light is showing?

As car as S (Sport), it will retain similar automatic characteristics to D BUT the shift points will be higher. IE: 1st gear ends around 10-15 MPH at light/partial throttle, 2nd ends at 25-35 MPH, 3rd at 65-75 MPH, and shifts into 4th (and not likely shifting into 5th due to not being able to achieve that speed on highways "legally").

If you were to hit either upshift or downshift paddle while in Sport; however, you will activate the "Manual" mode. Which basically makes it were the car will automatically downshift BUT YOU HAVE TO UPSHIFT or you'll hit the rev limiter/fuel cut.

No nothign is sunk. None of the buttons work. I press and nothign happens. When I shift into sports, the dashboard still shows D and it drives like D. Maybe a switch or wiring is out? It's liek you plug things into the outlet and when you turn it on.. nothign happens.
 
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Old 05-18-2012, 04:58 PM
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Blown fuse?
 
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Old 05-18-2012, 07:34 PM
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i checked the fuse and they seem to be ok..
which fuse would be the cruise and the sport feature? I think i checked everything from horn to whatever i saw..
If you could tell me a specific one, I can double check again..
 
  #7  
Old 05-19-2012, 03:14 AM
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Good thing you have a GD3...

Good thing you have a GD3, cuz I have a Honda Service Manual to refer to. Anyway, according to page 4-42, try doing the following:

"Check the No.16 (15 A) in under-hood fuse/relay box, and the No. 3 (10A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box."

I hope this helps.
 
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Old 05-19-2012, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by hqly
No nothign is sunk. None of the buttons work. I press and nothign happens. When I shift into sports, the dashboard still shows D and it drives like D. Maybe a switch or wiring is out? It's liek you plug things into the outlet and when you turn it on.. nothign happens.

Sounds like a broken switch.Does your dealer have the necessary electronics expertise to check that? The wiring diagram indicates there are contacts that can be verified for the momentary contact closures.
 
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Old 05-22-2012, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by mahout
Sounds like a broken switch.Does your dealer have the necessary electronics expertise to check that? The wiring diagram indicates there are contacts that can be verified for the momentary contact closures.

I'd taken it in and paid the 65 diagnostic fee and they told me that they suspect it might be a switch problem but that it would be labor intensive to find out the problem and wanted another 140 more to look more in detail. They'd hooked it up to the machine and didn't think it would be a simple or easy diagnostic.

Is the switch expensive to repair? Is it possible that it's just a loose switch?
 
  #10  
Old 05-22-2012, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by hqly
I'd taken it in and paid the 65 diagnostic fee and they told me that they suspect it might be a switch problem but that it would be labor intensive to find out the problem and wanted another 140 more to look more in detail. They'd hooked it up to the machine and didn't think it would be a simple or easy diagnostic.

Is the switch expensive to repair? Is it possible that it's just a loose switch?
Not likely to repair a solid state switch; a replacement shouldn't be that costly either $20 at most unless its part of a molded part. The cost to take the steering wheel apart, replace a switch and reconnect is probably 2 hours. For your area $70/hr is not bad.
If theyh did their work properly they merely dtermined that current is getting to the switch and none getting out. My guesds its a locking type switch meaning when you 'click' it the circuit locks in. Don't know what diagnostics machine thedy used. Fort us it would ber volt-ohmmeter check on wiring routing and harnesses. Once dtermining the switch wasn't functioning its only a R&R job.
 
  #11  
Old 05-23-2012, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by mahout
Not likely to repair a solid state switch; a replacement shouldn't be that costly either $20 at most unless its part of a molded part. The cost to take the steering wheel apart, replace a switch and reconnect is probably 2 hours. For your area $70/hr is not bad.
If theyh did their work properly they merely dtermined that current is getting to the switch and none getting out. My guesds its a locking type switch meaning when you 'click' it the circuit locks in. Don't know what diagnostics machine thedy used. Fort us it would ber volt-ohmmeter check on wiring routing and harnesses. Once dtermining the switch wasn't functioning its only a R&R job.
So they will charge me $140 to further diagnos and then maybe another $70/hr to fix the problem. They told me for them to take thigns apart and do a full diagnostic it's normally $205 if the simple diagnostic didn't yield result. IF it's just a switch problem then maybe $20+140+140 for $300 all in would be fine. I just don;t want to pay anymore then that or if they come back and tell me they still couldn;t find out the problem and wants another 200 to dig even further!
 
  #12  
Old 05-29-2012, 06:17 PM
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Checked all fuse and it's not the fuse. Nto sure how to check the relay switch since a few suspect that it would be that. This problem stinks!
 
  #13  
Old 01-29-2013, 04:16 PM
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still no solution as of today.. anyone else experience this lately?
 
  #14  
Old 01-29-2013, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by hqly
Checked all fuse and it's not the fuse. Nto sure how to check the relay switch since a few suspect that it would be that. This problem stinks!
Did you check both the fuse under hood and the one in the dash? If yiou can't tell visually you can check continuity with a vom meter.
How long since you bought the car did this problem occur? And while you're checking, check to see if the fuses are receiving current, again with the vom. Then check resistance to ground - the chassis - between the accessory side of the fuses to see if they are good. Either way you should find where the problem is fuse, power supply, or accessory fault.
And boy am I glad I don't have a dealer like yours.
 
  #15  
Old 02-20-2013, 10:56 AM
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Do you have CEL on? Check Engine Light?
 
  #16  
Old 11-01-2013, 07:33 PM
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No CEL. When I shift to S it's not lighted up as S. It just runs like D...
When I press to engage Cruise control, the dashboard doesn't have the cruise lighted either.
Hard to believe all my luck with this car. Now I'm having the car stall one me but it's for another thread.
 
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