Annoying Lurching While Picking up Speed
Annoying Lurching While Picking up Speed
I have another problem with my 2008 Sport but this time it's not a noise. Seems like it's not running right because when I put my foot down on the gas a bit more firmly to pick up speed, the throttle is not smooth (AC is off BTW). I don't mean like stomping obviously but gradually pushing the pedal to pick up speed a bit more than normal "in-traffic" pace. I notice in 3rd gear mostly it just kinda bucks or lurches like it's not getting air or something. WOT forget it the thing just bounces and jerks like crazy.
At first I thought it could just be the humidity but it hasn't been quite as oppressive and the issue has gotten a little worse. I replaced the air filter in the stock box less than a year ago with a K&N... maybe a bad choice? I don't really want to mess with intakes or go aftermarket but if that fixes it and gets me an extra mpg or two I'd be all for it...
Does anyone have any experience with this? I need an oil change soon since I'm at like 20% but that shouldn't cause what's happening. When I use the AC it does affect the power but that's normal and it's a small car but that's not what's happening. Maybe a belt or something? Engine seems to wind up in neutral fine, and I only weigh like 150 so what gives?
The good news is I haven't had any more rocks jammed in my brakes
At first I thought it could just be the humidity but it hasn't been quite as oppressive and the issue has gotten a little worse. I replaced the air filter in the stock box less than a year ago with a K&N... maybe a bad choice? I don't really want to mess with intakes or go aftermarket but if that fixes it and gets me an extra mpg or two I'd be all for it...
Does anyone have any experience with this? I need an oil change soon since I'm at like 20% but that shouldn't cause what's happening. When I use the AC it does affect the power but that's normal and it's a small car but that's not what's happening. Maybe a belt or something? Engine seems to wind up in neutral fine, and I only weigh like 150 so what gives?
The good news is I haven't had any more rocks jammed in my brakes
What mileage are you at? If over 100k its definitely time for new spark plugs. Get the correct part number from honda and search ebay for a good price.
OR use rockauto.com cheap warehouse prices usually!
Also, might be necessary to pull the fuel pump out and change the filter sock on its end. Honda doesnt seperate it from the fuel pump, but rockauto does. its listed as a fuel strainer $5
OR use rockauto.com cheap warehouse prices usually!
Also, might be necessary to pull the fuel pump out and change the filter sock on its end. Honda doesnt seperate it from the fuel pump, but rockauto does. its listed as a fuel strainer $5
yea sorry i meant to list the mileage... i just hit 75k a couple of weeks ago and the car is in pretty good shape, so I don't think anything should need to be replaced yet. i will probably get a new battery before winter since the original is still under the hood, but as for the engine itself I think it's pretty happy...
i did notice this (cool and dry) morning it seemed perfectly fine, so maybe i'm on to something with the humidity thing, but I can't be sure. i'll inquire about the fuel pump when I get the oil changed, but I think the plugs are fine. if it does end up being an intake issue maybe i'll try something next year, but the humid season is ending soon so if that's really the issue i'll just live with it for now; maybe take a peek inside the air box when i get a minute.
thanks for the input.
i did notice this (cool and dry) morning it seemed perfectly fine, so maybe i'm on to something with the humidity thing, but I can't be sure. i'll inquire about the fuel pump when I get the oil changed, but I think the plugs are fine. if it does end up being an intake issue maybe i'll try something next year, but the humid season is ending soon so if that's really the issue i'll just live with it for now; maybe take a peek inside the air box when i get a minute.
thanks for the input.
Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 552
From: Oceanside
if you don't think it is the plugs, then I would add a tank of 93 octane and see how it performs then. You can also try a can of STP fuel additive to get rid of any moisture and junk which may be hindering the fuel pump in the gas tank. Good luck.
Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 86
From: Illinois
Could be the K&N
I was having very similar issues to you about a month ago with my GE8. It was because of a DIY intake I made. I used tape to widen the MAF tube and it got sucked in and blocked the MAF sensor. I'm guessing that you are getting a bad reading from your sensor. People say it is easy to over oil K&N filters and that excess oil gets pulled through and gunks up any sensor in the air box. My suggestion would be to remove your sensor and see if it is covered with oil, clean it if it is, and switch back to the stock filter if you still have it. Hope that helps.
I haven't done any intake mods or anything but i haven't checked the box yet. When I installed it last fall there was a little oil on it but nothing that could clog anything really. I still have the old one though so I can always just swap it in. Maybe I'll just do that and try the fuel cleaner; see what happens. Worst case scenario i just have it checked out...
thanks guys
thanks guys
Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 4,371
From: NC USA
I have another problem with my 2008 Sport but this time it's not a noise. Seems like it's not running right because when I put my foot down on the gas a bit more firmly to pick up speed, the throttle is not smooth (AC is off BTW). I don't mean like stomping obviously but gradually pushing the pedal to pick up speed a bit more than normal "in-traffic" pace. I notice in 3rd gear mostly it just kinda bucks or lurches like it's not getting air or something. WOT forget it the thing just bounces and jerks like crazy.
At first I thought it could just be the humidity but it hasn't been quite as oppressive and the issue has gotten a little worse. I replaced the air filter in the stock box less than a year ago with a K&N... maybe a bad choice? I don't really want to mess with intakes or go aftermarket but if that fixes it and gets me an extra mpg or two I'd be all for it...
Almost always hesitation, that is a kipped electrical firing of a spark plug, is cvaused by spark plugs or coil paks 'wearing out'. Its not that they have actually had parts lose thickness, composition, etc, like brake pads but because the material has lost its ability to pass an electrical charge.
Whenever a vehicle gets more than 40k miles plugs and coil paks are reaching the endf of their dsign life much like neon light bulbs.
First thing you should do is get ancode checking device found at most aftermarket stores for around $50 or get one to do it for free and check the codes. More than likely you will get a code indicating ignition difficulties in omne or more cytlinders.
You can replace plugs first and then if thats not the case replace the coil pak too until you get no more codes.
Its normal for the polugs and coil paks to 'wear out' in about 50,000 miles. They can and do last longer but the average is about 0k miles.
After that you can suspect a lot of other things like valve gap buts not
Does anyone have any experience with this? I need an oil change soon since I'm at like 20% but that shouldn't cause what's happening. When I use the AC it does affect the power but that's normal and it's a small car but that's not what's happening. Maybe a belt or something? Engine seems to wind up in neutral fine, and I only weigh like 150 so what gives?
The good news is I haven't had any more rocks jammed in my brakes
At first I thought it could just be the humidity but it hasn't been quite as oppressive and the issue has gotten a little worse. I replaced the air filter in the stock box less than a year ago with a K&N... maybe a bad choice? I don't really want to mess with intakes or go aftermarket but if that fixes it and gets me an extra mpg or two I'd be all for it...
Almost always hesitation, that is a kipped electrical firing of a spark plug, is cvaused by spark plugs or coil paks 'wearing out'. Its not that they have actually had parts lose thickness, composition, etc, like brake pads but because the material has lost its ability to pass an electrical charge.
Whenever a vehicle gets more than 40k miles plugs and coil paks are reaching the endf of their dsign life much like neon light bulbs.
First thing you should do is get ancode checking device found at most aftermarket stores for around $50 or get one to do it for free and check the codes. More than likely you will get a code indicating ignition difficulties in omne or more cytlinders.
You can replace plugs first and then if thats not the case replace the coil pak too until you get no more codes.
Its normal for the polugs and coil paks to 'wear out' in about 50,000 miles. They can and do last longer but the average is about 0k miles.
After that you can suspect a lot of other things like valve gap buts not
Does anyone have any experience with this? I need an oil change soon since I'm at like 20% but that shouldn't cause what's happening. When I use the AC it does affect the power but that's normal and it's a small car but that's not what's happening. Maybe a belt or something? Engine seems to wind up in neutral fine, and I only weigh like 150 so what gives?
The good news is I haven't had any more rocks jammed in my brakes
Almost always hesitation, that is' a skipped electrical firing of a spark plug, is caused by spark plugs or coil paks 'wearing out'. Its not that they have actually had parts lose thickness, composition, etc, like brake pads but because the material has lost its ability to pass an electrical charge.
Whenever a vehicle gets more than 40k miles plugs and coil paks are reaching the end of their design life much like neon light bulbs.
First thing you should do is get a code checking device found at most aftermarket stores for around $50 or get one to do it for free and check the codes. More than likely you will get a code indicating ignition difficulties in omne or more cytlinders.
You can replace plugs first and then if thats not the case replace the coil pak too until you get no more codes.
Its normal for the plugs and coil paks to 'wear out' in about 50,000 miles. They can and do last longer but the average is about 50k miles.
After that you can suspect a lot of other things like valve gap but that a lesser cause.
good luck.
Banned
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,361
From: right coast
I was having very similar issues to you about a month ago with my GE8. It was because of a DIY intake I made. I used tape to widen the MAF tube and it got sucked in and blocked the MAF sensor. I'm guessing that you are getting a bad reading from your sensor. People say it is easy to over oil K&N filters and that excess oil gets pulled through and gunks up any sensor in the air box. My suggestion would be to remove your sensor and see if it is covered with oil, clean it if it is, and switch back to the stock filter if you still have it. Hope that helps.
^explains why I couldn't find it...
I checked the entire intake system recently and I can honestly say that's not where the problem lies. Filter is clean and there is barely any lubricant or whatever that stuff is; no debris clogging anything. Aside from the air duct being laughably small I didn't see any possible culprits. Also nothing is disconnected...
I've never heard the term "coil pack" so I assume my previous vehicles didn't have them? I'll look into that I guess because the problem is starting to annoy me real nice. The only issue with that is the fact that the thing seems perfectly fine when I'm cruising along it's just the accel that sucks. And with the AC on the thing lurches like crazy...
I checked the entire intake system recently and I can honestly say that's not where the problem lies. Filter is clean and there is barely any lubricant or whatever that stuff is; no debris clogging anything. Aside from the air duct being laughably small I didn't see any possible culprits. Also nothing is disconnected...
I've never heard the term "coil pack" so I assume my previous vehicles didn't have them? I'll look into that I guess because the problem is starting to annoy me real nice. The only issue with that is the fact that the thing seems perfectly fine when I'm cruising along it's just the accel that sucks. And with the AC on the thing lurches like crazy...
Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 552
From: Oceanside
No Mass Air Flow sensor Loudbang??? So that's why I could not find it. I'm assuming there is a PCV valve however, right? I seriously doubt that the original owner ever replaced the coil packs or iridium plugs in my Fit. I'm at 96,000 miles and just waiting for the first hesitations to begin. Thanks to all your advice this past six months, I'm ready to tackle the job myself when it does occur.
Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 86
From: Illinois
Sorry about the bad info. I guess I knew they didn't have a MAF. I thought they had some other sensor though? Anyway...
As for the coil packs I did hear of people having the issues you are describing after they get worn out. Although I thought if they went bad they would be throwing codes. Since you don't know what they are, here is a thread for the GD that explains how to change them. https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...l15a-vtec.html . I realize the thread is for spark plugs but the coil packs sit right on top. Before replacing your coil packs you should think about changing your plugs since bad plugs could result in the same symptoms. I paid $35 for 4 plugs and coil packs IIRC are close to $100 each. Can anyone chime in on how to verify that the packs are the issue before the OP spends a bunch of money?
Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 4,371
From: NC USA
Sorry about the bad info. I guess I knew they didn't have a MAF. I thought they had some other sensor though? Anyway...
As for the coil packs I did hear of people having the issues you are describing after they get worn out. Although I thought if they went bad they would be throwing codes. Since you don't know what they are, here is a thread for the GD that explains how to change them. https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...l15a-vtec.html . I realize the thread is for spark plugs but the coil packs sit right on top. Before replacing your coil packs you should think about changing your plugs since bad plugs could result in the same symptoms. I paid $35 for 4 plugs and coil packs IIRC are close to $100 each. Can anyone chime in on how to verify that the packs are the issue before the OP spends a bunch of money?
As for the coil packs I did hear of people having the issues you are describing after they get worn out. Although I thought if they went bad they would be throwing codes. Since you don't know what they are, here is a thread for the GD that explains how to change them. https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...l15a-vtec.html . I realize the thread is for spark plugs but the coil packs sit right on top. Before replacing your coil packs you should think about changing your plugs since bad plugs could result in the same symptoms. I paid $35 for 4 plugs and coil packs IIRC are close to $100 each. Can anyone chime in on how to verify that the packs are the issue before the OP spends a bunch of money?
Code readers are available at many aftermarket autom parts stores for around $50. You can then plug it into the system circuit connector and follow directions to have it read the codes that occur with defective parts like plugs and coils.
Incidently about 10 years ago anufacturers started converting from the old one coil serves all cylinders with individual coils for each cylinder spark plug. Supposedly it yields fewer emissions but so far I've never found that to be the case. These coils, like the old ones raise the voltage from 12v to something like 15,000 volts so the electrons will jump across the spark plug gap to ignite the fuel air mixture. And it burns, not expodes . If the plug doesn't have the right current path, or the spark plug gap is wrong - and thats something you should check too before buying all that expensive coil paks and plugs - or the coil is bad. (they get shorts acrss the many windings (why they're called coils Its really a transformer.). But be assured you will replace all 4 plugs and coils before 100,000 miles if your Fit is normal. They do wear out and as they go they interupty the ignition resulting in hesitation. Sometimes just reducing the gap from .044 to .040 or even .035 will cure the problem fo a whle anyway.
again good luck.
Banned
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,361
From: right coast
No Mass Air Flow sensor Loudbang??? So that's why I could not find it. I'm assuming there is a PCV valve however, right? I seriously doubt that the original owner ever replaced the coil packs or iridium plugs in my Fit. I'm at 96,000 miles and just waiting for the first hesitations to begin. Thanks to all your advice this past six months, I'm ready to tackle the job myself when it does occur.
It's very easy to check the PCV valve.
Look on the right side of the engine (looking from the front) along side the plastic engine cover there will be a black rubber hose running from the front wall of the block along side the head and ends up going into the back of the intake manifold (not to the airbox).
With the engine idling either pinch that hose with your fingers if you are strong enough or gently with a pair of pliers.
As the hose is pinched listen carefully and you should hear a metallic click from the valve. If you can't hear it pinch and release the hose a couple times rapidly and it should stand out more.
If you can't hear the clicks the PCV valve is bad or the hose is leaking.
BUT with your symptoms and mileage it is much more likely to be one or more bad coilpacks. All coilpacks mean is that now most cars have one coil per cylinder and they go right onto the top of the individual plugs not just one large coil for all the cylinders.
For other questions the GD models has a MAP sensor but they rarely go bad I think I have seen one in 9 years of being on many Honda Fit sites.
With you mileage if it hasn't been done yet it's really time to adjust your valve clearances also.
Last edited by loudbang; Aug 22, 2013 at 01:36 AM.
Makes sense... I'm quite cetain everything under the hood is OE from the factory so I guess I'll be ordering some stuff. I'll check those coils later and see what i find.
Thanks for the help and info!
Thanks for the help and info!
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