Front jacking point
Ok thanks.
I have the haynes manual and it suggests the radiator cross member but it looks too wimpy to support the whole of the front end, plus you would need to remove the splash guard with 10 or so clips/screws.

I have homemade ramps, so I can use these to get access to the engine cross member.
I have the haynes manual and it suggests the radiator cross member but it looks too wimpy to support the whole of the front end, plus you would need to remove the splash guard with 10 or so clips/screws.

I have homemade ramps, so I can use these to get access to the engine cross member.
Ok thanks.
I have the haynes manual and it suggests the radiator cross member but it looks too wimpy to support the whole of the front end, plus you would need to remove the splash guard with 10 or so clips/screws.

I have homemade ramps, so I can use these to get access to the engine cross member.
I have the haynes manual and it suggests the radiator cross member but it looks too wimpy to support the whole of the front end, plus you would need to remove the splash guard with 10 or so clips/screws.

I have homemade ramps, so I can use these to get access to the engine cross member.
Don't use that location for jacking.
Correct! That's the point I use when I need to put my front wheels on jack stands. I drive up on some 2x4s (scrap wood) and then get my trolley jack under there. I actually wedge a piece of wood between the jack and that part for two reasons 1) that part can bend and get scraped by the "cup end" of my hydraulic jack and 2) even on the blocks, it is near impossible to get any leverage since the very small lever of the jack is well underneath the front bumper cover. I've been searching for an extension bar for that exact purpose! If you can find a good deal on a low profile jack I say go for it, just make sure it jacks up high enough for your needs.
Shouldn't deform as it bears the weight of the car's front end in normal use.
I don't think I'll be doing that. The centre lug outlined in green projects 10 to 15 mm out from the main cross member. So I think there would be a real possibility of slippage. I'll just put a thick piece of cloth in the jack cup to stop metal on metal damage.
I don't think I'll be doing that. The centre lug outlined in green projects 10 to 15 mm out from the main cross member. So I think there would be a real possibility of slippage. I'll just put a thick piece of cloth in the jack cup to stop metal on metal damage.
Shouldn't deform as it bears the weight of the car's front end in normal use.
I don't think I'll be doing that. The centre lug outlined in green projects 10 to 15 mm out from the main cross member. So I think there would be a real possibility of slippage. I'll just put a thick piece of cloth in the jack cup to stop metal on metal damage.
I don't think I'll be doing that. The centre lug outlined in green projects 10 to 15 mm out from the main cross member. So I think there would be a real possibility of slippage. I'll just put a thick piece of cloth in the jack cup to stop metal on metal damage.
Good luck and be safe.
Nope, it'll bend. I bent/dented mine with the cup end of my jack. Since the "cup end" of my jack is not large enough to contain the whole square, I think there is actually more chance of slippage (for me) without the use of the scrap wood. I make sure the piece of 2x4 is well positioned before actually lifting the car. Also, the cup end teeth of the jack actually sink into the wood, providing good stability on that side. Anyway, I just raise the car high enough to place my jack stands and lower the jack right after. Others have mentioned using a hockey puck which is probably a good alternative.
Good luck and be safe.
Good luck and be safe.
Ok thanks for the info. I'll see if I can't make a custom moud out of a hockey puck and post back with the results.
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