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driver door replacement - thoughts and insight appreciated...07 fit sport...

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  #1  
Old 06-07-2017, 12:05 PM
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driver door replacement - thoughts and insight appreciated...07 fit sport...

So I have a 07 fit sport I purchased new back in the day...

the fucking driver door rusted out on my (Ohio weather days) and frankly im sick of it.

i found a junk yard yesterday and I bought a door (somehwat impulse buy, from 08 standard fit) Was $86 for a door in okay shape too much? no motor for window..(missed it by minutes)

ive got a return warranty for the next 30 days... i need to move quick-ish so my thoughts are where to start

1.) where does the wireharness detach from my current vehicle so that I can connect to new door
2.) How do i switch the lock ? / will the remote open the new door regardless of lock switch?
3.) in theory since my window motor has no problems it should be able to be removed from my existing door and put on new one yes?

i need to verify speakers working?

any other thoughts or considerations?
also what should i do first?

i want the door to be professionally repainted, any thoughts on where to do this in San Diego? (it has some scratches and things, but looks a helluva lot better than the old rusty door)

id like to do anything i can by myself but i need diagrams and help on how to remove in particular the wireharness motor and swap lock.

thanks for any input.
 
  #2  
Old 06-07-2017, 01:14 PM
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1.) where does the wireharness detach from my current vehicle so that I can connect to new door
Drivers side kick panel
2.) How do i switch the lock ? / will the remote open the new door regardless of lock switch?
swap the lock cylinder from your original door, remote should work
3.) in theory since my window motor has no problems it should be able to be removed from my existing door and put on new one
this is correct
You have to be very careful when reinstalling the water shield; it prone to leak even with tiny wrinkles at the bottom
The glass frame part might be adjusted after installation (3 lbs sledge and phone book is required; do it with window down or not yet installed)
 

Last edited by doctor J; 06-07-2017 at 01:19 PM.
  #3  
Old 06-07-2017, 01:35 PM
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Dr. J. thank you
1. side kick panel....is that eh plastic housing on the door? or between the space between the door and the car? Yesterday when I was removing the attachment, the wires were a bitch and it was simply too tight to work on in the space at the lot. i just cut from middle. hopefully that wasnt a mistake.
2. i assuming this involves taking off the interior of the door? must be done from inside?
3. interesting about the water shield. thankfully it doesn't rain here much. when you say water shield...is this on the electric motor for the window?
 
  #4  
Old 06-07-2017, 04:27 PM
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1. side kick panel....is that eh plastic housing on the door? or between the space between the door and the car?
It is to the left of the clutch pedal, behind the plastic cover below the hood opening handle
"Yesterday when I was removing the attachment, the wires were a bitch and it was simply too tight to work on in the space at the lot. i just cut from middle"
You mean at the rubber boot between a door and the body?
2. i assuming this involves taking off the interior of the door? must be done from inside?
the glass must be in upper position, interior door panel removed, door handle protecting steel cover is moved away
3. interesting about the water shield. thankfully it doesn't rain here much. when you say water shield...is this on the electric motor for the window?
Its a plastic sheet between the door and the interior trim panel
 
  #5  
Old 06-12-2017, 01:26 PM
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today is the day!
1. so underneath the hood opening handle (mine is automatic, no clutch) yea...on the replacement door i just cut the wires as on my current vehicle everything is intact. i hope this was not a mistake?
2. as it is right now the glass on the replacement door is about halfway up
3. interesting

know of any pictures of this stuff? i guess ill have to take some .
 
  #6  
Old 06-12-2017, 05:10 PM
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The wire bundle out of the driver's door is brunching out to the underdash fuse box and connector behind the kick panel.
Looks like you will have to move harness from your old door to replacement door
 
  #7  
Old 06-12-2017, 06:08 PM
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any tips on how to move and feed the old harness through the replacement door? actually also how to remove it from existing door? does the inside door panel come off? ive tried but i dont see how it comes off? thanks for any help
 
  #8  
Old 06-12-2017, 06:10 PM
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  #9  
Old 06-12-2017, 07:25 PM
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First all items are connected in the door than the harness(both connectors are fed one at the time trough the rubber below between door and the body (I did this way back in 1999 on 81 Oldsmobile Delta 88, but I was changing rear door.
 
  #10  
Old 06-13-2017, 12:56 AM
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well so far it went well. luckily a friend from work lives where i do and he stopped and helped me. luckily. turns out the bitch was switching the lock. hes dealt with wire harnesses before. the window is much improved from last and the rust is gone. i am going to pull the motor out of the door and keep it in case something is bad. is there anyway/where to have those tested to make sure they are still working?
i will also keep glass and side mirror.

any thoughts on anything else? other than that i will probably throw the shell away as much of its rusted out anyway.

i lost the multi door opening ability via key. i can open main door with key, others not.

i will keep my eye open for another regulator. occasionally it makes a buzzing noise when going down.

really much improved
 

Last edited by RogueCreature; 06-13-2017 at 12:57 AM. Reason: a link appearing in my text? i didnt put it there :(
  #11  
Old 06-13-2017, 09:30 AM
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9 volt battery pack from cordless drill can be used to test a window regulator (if it works from 9V it sure will work from 12 or 14 V!)
and skip to 0.44 mark
 
  #12  
Old 06-14-2017, 11:04 AM
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sweet thanks.
 
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