Someone repaired the oil pan with epoxy and it has started to leak. I found a used one ( manual - scarce ) to replace it.

It looks like there are 4 bolts for the air conditioning compressor . Do two of them mount on the block and 2 on the oil pan. I'm hoping I can get the oil pan off without removing the compressor entirely.

What is the best way to remove the old gunk before applying new sealer ?

Is torque important for oil pan bolts

Thanks:
John

 

Found the torque specs; 8.7 ftlb.

John

 

Once you remove the drive belt move compressor toward the radiator to get about 1 to 1.5 inches of clearance (the a/c compressor must be fully unbolted from the pan)

 

Thanks Doctor .The new oil pan got here this morning and I see the four holes for the compressor. I still can't see the two top bolts but maybe taking the inner fender off will help.

 

You also have to remove the drive shaft heat shield on the back of the engine (m/t only) dipstick tube, clutch cover inspection plate, and two large bolts (m/t or three a/t) on either side of the cover (47 lbf-ft). There is also a o-ring for the oil filter supply tube leading up to the block and a rear seal that should be replaced. I'd use a metal scrapper to carefully get the old liquid gasket off and clean all sealing surfaces with a towel wet with brake cleaner.

 

Thanks John:

I have it apart now and got the parts. But...I decided to put a new belt on and when I took the old one off I didn't like the bearings in the alternator. A new one fom ebay will be here in a week or 10 days. Now I have lots of time to put the new pan on .

 

Got everything together, thanks for the help.

The new serpentine belt was fine for 50km then the outer groove disappeared and the cord wound around some stuff. I don't see anything that could touch the belt. Is there anything I should check?
Thanks:
John

 

Did you have any trouble screwing in the new oil filer holder (nipple/plug)? It is not going in by hand and I don't want to force it...