My video:
I replaced the brake pads with genuine Honda pads but realized I needed rotors to be machined or replaced as well Ordered rotors from the dealer (latest part number with anti rust paint coating) was about $77 each including delivery. The video shows rotor R @ R for one side only. Because of the cleaning and filming the total time for this side was about 45 minutes. This was the second side, first side took about 35 minutes at 88 degrees F and 60% RH
Tools used:
breaker bar
3/4" socket
17 mm socket
12 mm socket
19 mm open end to hold caliper pins while undoing or tightening caliper 12 mm bolts
Impact driver with Phillips bit #3 (not sure if it was JIS, probably not)
Large Phillips screwdriver # 3
3 pound sledge (can be also used for self-defense)
cleaning brushes
ratcheting wrench
torque wrench
Note; in my case the rotor came out easy; if it stubborn, use 2 M8 screws (12 or 13 mm head) to pull the rotor from the hub.
Sorry, no sexy assistant was available to film; even if she will come to help, my deodorant-free perspiration will send her far away

 

Doctor j,



I was IMPRESSED by your scissors-jack skills...did you fast-forward that segment?! I KNOW that isn't a Fit jack.





You are lucky that you live in SoCal. The rust here in salty NJ would make you shake your head. And, necessitate the use of a 90-pound sledge.




BUT, thanks for posting the procedure!

 

The jack is from Fit with Camry handle
Fix it Angel (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-9...FB3c4qoe8GIo0A) always show his impressive car lifting skills, and I want to include some parody elements in my video.
Using manual jack makes a good warming up exercise for muscles and joints, no need to take hormones like The Mechanic OC. (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTu...jWWVsBHr0eo6pQ)
I will take my old rotors to my work place to measure thickness variation using micrometer.

 

Good video. Very useful. I was especially impressed by the effectiveness of your impact wrench. Removing the screws that retain the rotor is normally a difficult job.

How many miles were on your old rotors?

 

Right on...




If I'm helping others with rotors, I always have a DRILL in the wings, just in case.





On my own cars, I've been known to put some anti-seize under the screw heads the first time I rotate the tires.

 

About 82,650 miles
I used 1/4 inch hex #3 Phillips bit (https://static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/5RDG9_AS01?$mdmain$)
For best results (when holding impact in the left hand) the steering wheel should be either in straight ahead position or turned to the left; when I did the right side (filmed) my steering was turned to the right (to expose right caliper bolts), so it was a little harder to remove these screws compared to the other side.

 

Our factory-fitted rotors are still within thickness tolerances at ~148K miles. This, on the second set (originals & replaced once) of genuine Honda pads.



The Rusty Ridge on the edges is getting bigger and will require replacement within the next year...just a trace of vibration currently.

 

New rotors are painted (ribs and hub) to protect from rust; this paint seems to be baked well (no smell from the hot rotors), however I have no idea how long it going to last.

 

The brake paint only lasts about 5 years here in NJ (both OEM and aftermarket parts); I have refinished both my hubs and rear drums. Speaking of the drums, I have documented the rubbing noise that happens when the groove in them develops 'rust blooms'.

 

never knew u were from jersey =p

 

The avatar didn't make you suspect that? LOL