I'm running a Precision 5454 MFS with t3 rated at 495hp. It's a decent choice for the L15a because is not too big and should spool rather quick.

This is the turbo: http://www.precisionturbo.net/turboc...-5454E-MFS/474

I was thinking of doing the piston/rod upgrade last because of being the most expensive upgrade. Now that I think about it, though, I should just save up a little more and do the piston/rod/stud first, then (if necesary) do cam/valvetrain, and finally TB.

Random question: Has anyone measured the GE rods? I heard they come forged out of the factory and would be a cheaper option for the GD3 if they have the same measurements...

 

That is actually way more turbo than you need, but it will at least be fairly efficient.

You don't need a cam or bigger TB to make 300whp. Take my word for it. It's been done on the exact setup I'm describing to you, a little more boost and holding it to ~7250-7500rpm is all thats required. To make it easier, you could shim your valvesprings and wind out to 8000.

Just remember that as boost and drive pressure increase, you will be more prone to float. Build the bottom end, stud the head and run that turbo where it wants to be.

Don't waste your time with the GE rods. After ~225-230wtq you are on borrowed time, especially if your tune is not dead-nuts on.

 

Hell, a 14B/Red would make for a decent setup on our motors once you play with the intake manifold/runners a bit

DSM, wouldnt a T25 gut swapped snail work pretty well? The nissan ball bearing T25 worked AMAZING in my D16 CRX before I got the HY35 on it.

 

An FP Red (65lb/min) is twice as big in terms of flow capacity as a 14B (best case ~35lbs/min), but yes a 14B in a stock 6cm housing is one of the better matches for our motor. No intake modification needed.

You'd have a real hard time getting a Red lit early enough on our engines. Without some real RPM available to make it worthwhile or a two-step to bring it up at a stand-still. Even then, if the engine was built to survive that sort of abuse the gearbox would give up after maybe 1-2 passes.. we have no support for the trans and the most it will handle for more than a few runs appears to be low 300wtq.

The T25s and smaller GT25s will certainly work, but anything less than a GT2560 is a waste of time in my opinion especially with the Flashpro available for the GD.

All the kits that were offered for the GD used these size chargers in tiny .4x A/R housings for fear of complaints on spool and probably fear of the stock bottom end.. leaving a lot of power on the table.

 

I have the precision 4854 in my fit at 9 psi I am making 200whp. Eventually I will buy a spare block and build it since they are so cheap. The turbo pulls pretty hard and has made some people reconsider messing with a fit on the highway. I feel like that throttle body is a bit unnecessary except to say that you have a spoon tb.

 

I'll do that, then. I'll post some numbers after I'm done with the setup.

I really don't want to go above 16 psi, though. I'm a little chickened out when it comes to boost, lol. My first (and only) boost experience was with my old s2k. I was putting out ~450whp on stock piston/rod (forged stock piston 11.5 C/R) stg 2 cam @14psi. I had a CAL for 8psi daily, but on track day my motor blew on my second pass @14psi. Piston C/R was almost one unit higher compared to the gd, but they were still forged pistons. :/ at least l15a's are cheap as hell.

Thanks for the input though, it will probably save me some cash. I'll get a spare block from a local junker just in case.. For now I'll just beat the shrap out of my l15a.