GOtta Love Dms Knws SO dam Much +1

 

The Mini wheels at 12.1 are lighter than stock sport wheels by close to 5 1/2 Lbs.. I have owned a few British cars and really loved the hell out of them when they ran right.. Back then they were always in need of attention and parts were costly... I was looking for something nice but with decent performance, researching numerous older upscale cars and cost of repair parts and required maintenance.. I was considering Jaguar, BMW, Mercedes and Northstar powered Cadillac Seville ..... All of them require attention when fresh and new and even more so when a decade or more older.. I found a 1998 Eldorado with 71000 miles on it that I drove over 100 miles to look at and bought it even though it needed a complete front and rear replacement of brake pads and rotors, leaks a little oil and the passenger side window doesn't roll down... I'll be out far less than I have spent in time and money on performance mods for the Fit to get it right but it will be worth it because of it's luxurious ride and features... The Fit will run off and hide from it but it is still a great handling car,is said to get great fuel mileage at highway speeds plus the sound of the DOHC 32 valve V8 at wide open throttle makes it all worthwhile...

 

Caddies make a nice sound. Northstars are pretty smooth motors, too. I like British cars because the British love cars, and they make them as things to be enjoyed. They have character and soul.

 

IK22 plugs and a switch to premium are the only noticeable "power" mod I have made on the GD. A while back there was even a debate about those pulleys being non dampened and the long term effects on your engine...

I do have I/H/E but frankly its just for noise and show lol

 

The best way to make a worse car better .. is to buy a better car

In almost all circumstances you can find something that is faster or goes around corners quicker for the same price as modifying an existing car to do it. That calculus tends to break down once you start talking about large turbocharger applications, I admit that, but in general it's the case - and you don't end up having to modify your car and worry about reliability. (The latter, by the way, one other excellent reason to spec better wheels or tires rather than make drivetrain changes).

So in this case, just off the very top of my head, I can think of the Ford Focus, Mazda3, Veloster if you want new. Note that I considered all these cars before buying a Fit, so you can tell what I decided, but if you simply want more power they are all faster. Lightly used? Civic Si, Acura RSX, WRX, Tiburon, Mustang .. many others. Or go find someone with a heavily modified old Civic that's now worth less than what it would be stock and negotiate hard with him :P

But really, although this is good advice, also consider that it could be an enjoyable challenge making your current car better

 

O that's too funny!

 

I've been curious about this. Doing both combined allows the ECU to pull more timing i've concluded? How does it run with the different plugs on 87 if for some reason 91 was not available (or i'm too cheap/broke that day )?

To the OP:

Honda did a very good job of getting the most out of the L15A7 in stock form. You can CHANGE the powerband with I/H/E but you're not really making more power, you're just moving the power from one place in the rev range to another. There really isn't any super restrictive part of the motor to be improved upon with just bolt-ons. To make MORE usable power throughout the powerband you will have to mess with the internals (compression, cam, etc.), ECU tuning, and as everyone stated, will become expensive.

Turbo or supercharger is the easiest and cheapest way without breaking the block open.

Or just daily the Fit and pick up another project to mess with, like you said earlier

 

show me the dyno proving a power gain

 

[QUOTE=Wanderer.;1129553]I've been curious about this. Doing both combined allows the ECU to pull more timing i've concluded? How does it run with the different plugs on 87 if for some reason 91 was not available (or i'm too cheap/broke that day )?

Runs on 87 no prob, I have forgotten at the pump a few times Pulls much smoother above 4K through redline, but again, this is butt dyno talking The Fit ECU is just too smart for bolt on's or even a piggy back to really do any good, or so every one keeps saying. I am trying to find a solution now... but no luck yet....

 

Agreed, I only have circumstantial evidence based on research and personal experience right now T_T

IF I can find a tuning solution for the GD ECU I will more than happily post all of my info and dyno charts from stock pulls with bolt on's to the final results. If I only get an additional 3-5whp I am more than happy. If I wanted a faster higher HP car I would have started with one

 

KraftWerks: KRAFTWERKS ON SPARK PLUGS



Yes I know that is a boosted car, but at the same dyno day where the high boost kit was released they tested it on a NA car and saw a 3% gain from 99-102whp

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/cali...27-09-a-7.html

I do my best to research things before parting with my hard earned money honest!

 

Check out the area gained under the curve... That is that increased spark advance I'm always going on about. See where that might make a difference?

I don't just make this shit up.

 

But peak numbers get all the boys in the yard to go ohhhhh and ahhhhh or say it's not worth it. Ignorant is as ignorant does.

 

The big boost in torque is coming from the spark advance? Even if you gain +5 ft/lb N/A it'd be worth the $20 or whatever for the plugs. I wish they posted the N/A graph

Since I can't advance the dizzy manually I guess this is my way to do so

 

Torque is directly related to cylinder pressure and rod/crank angle. Horsepower is derived from torque over time.

Spark timing determines where cylinder pressure builds, peaks and falls off.

Spark angle is the biggest factor in torque production, all other things held equal (Cam/Valve timing, MAP, IAT, Fuel Type, etc.)

 

^^ I think a set of IK22's still runs around $49. Only some places carry them, I got them from a local old school speed shop, Vic Hubbard in Hayward.

15 mins to change them out with basic hand tools:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...l15a-vtec.html

Then premimum fuel (on average costs me an extra buck a tank) and decide for yourself.

I've had mine for 30K+ and no complaints!

Oh, and DSM you have a PM

 

Buy them on amazon, and get the non projected tip plugs.

No way should it cost you ~$50 bucks, I think a paid $12+ shipping

I got it! Should have a chance to get you a proper response tonight.

 

Man, guess that's what I get for buying local >_<

Thanks!

 

since when I/H/E don't improve power? loud is undisputed. but if you don't get power with it, then you're doing it wrong... exhaust particularly is tricky stuff... and exhaust is the one which can get you bigger power contribution compared to intake (excluding FI)

i know one GE with 162bhp max power, done as per DSM formula. High comp piston, rods, cams, pnp, piggyback, etc... daily driven with full interior..

but yes.. it is more expensive than turbo.... louder... doesn't idle smooth... but as far as reliability goes, is not much difference with a turbo'ed car... oil pressure and water temp gauges will be the difference from minor breakdown to major overhaul...