IASCA car audio install
#102
08-28-2009, 10:00 PM
Props for Seas and Scan Speak. Nice pods utilizing the larger air space. Fill it with polyfill. Are you going to bother with the doors at all?
#104
10-06-2009, 08:34 PM
Sorry for the lack of updates, I've been swamped with some non-car audio related issues... The car is near completion at the moment. I just have some stuff here and there left.
I painted the mesh black and clear coated the rings.
Differences between a polished and unpolished ring:
Finished grilles.
A pillars...
Textured and painted back. I ordered a pair of those one time use clips on the a pillars from Honda, so its not totally secured yet.
I painted the mesh black and clear coated the rings.
Differences between a polished and unpolished ring:
Finished grilles.
A pillars...
Textured and painted back. I ordered a pair of those one time use clips on the a pillars from Honda, so its not totally secured yet.
Last edited by circa40; 10-14-2010 at 06:45 PM.
#105
10-07-2009, 08:35 PM
Very nice! Looks very clean.
So what do you do with the holes in the doors where the speakers were? Since the midbass are in the kickpods do you just completely seal off the doors? If so, how?
Also, I really like the look of your amp rack...extremely clean looking and still leaves all the functionality and space of the hatch area. Do you have any more pics I can view to get a better idea of how to do a project like that myself?
If my current amps have the heatsinks on the sides, should I consider a different set-up b/c of heat issues?
I also saw that you said this was going to be your daily driver as well... are you planning on upgrading the electrical system/alternator to deal with the extra draw from the amps or do you think the stock system will be enough?
Sorry for all the questions. I'm trying to get an idea of things that need to be done and I could use all the help I can get. The way I look at it, if I don't ask, I won't get an answer.
So what do you do with the holes in the doors where the speakers were? Since the midbass are in the kickpods do you just completely seal off the doors? If so, how?
Also, I really like the look of your amp rack...extremely clean looking and still leaves all the functionality and space of the hatch area. Do you have any more pics I can view to get a better idea of how to do a project like that myself?
If my current amps have the heatsinks on the sides, should I consider a different set-up b/c of heat issues?
I also saw that you said this was going to be your daily driver as well... are you planning on upgrading the electrical system/alternator to deal with the extra draw from the amps or do you think the stock system will be enough?
Sorry for all the questions. I'm trying to get an idea of things that need to be done and I could use all the help I can get. The way I look at it, if I don't ask, I won't get an answer.
#106
10-08-2009, 12:15 PM
..........
Very nice! Looks very clean.
So what do you do with the holes in the doors where the speakers were? Since the midbass are in the kickpods do you just completely seal off the doors? If so, how?
Thanks!
I'll probably just seal off the doors with thin aluminum and cover them with foam and deadening and cover the whole door with a mass loaded vinyl barrier.
Also, I really like the look of your amp rack...extremely clean looking and still leaves all the functionality and space of the hatch area. Do you have any more pics I can view to get a better idea of how to do a project like that myself?
The amp rack has totally changed, i'm using 4 smaller amps now. they span the entire floor, but I can still lift everything access the spare. I'll post up some final pics one everything is done
If my current amps have the heatsinks on the sides, should I consider a different set-up b/c of heat issues?
I would probably have to get a little more creative if the sinks are on the sides of the amp, maybe a fan or 2 would work.
I also saw that you said this was going to be your daily driver as well... are you planning on upgrading the electrical system/alternator to deal with the extra draw from the amps or do you think the stock system will be enough?
My fingers are crossed for that lol
Sorry for all the questions. I'm trying to get an idea of things that need to be done and I could use all the help I can get. The way I look at it, if I don't ask, I won't get an answer.
No problem at all
So what do you do with the holes in the doors where the speakers were? Since the midbass are in the kickpods do you just completely seal off the doors? If so, how?
Thanks!
I'll probably just seal off the doors with thin aluminum and cover them with foam and deadening and cover the whole door with a mass loaded vinyl barrier.
Also, I really like the look of your amp rack...extremely clean looking and still leaves all the functionality and space of the hatch area. Do you have any more pics I can view to get a better idea of how to do a project like that myself?
The amp rack has totally changed, i'm using 4 smaller amps now. they span the entire floor, but I can still lift everything access the spare. I'll post up some final pics one everything is done
If my current amps have the heatsinks on the sides, should I consider a different set-up b/c of heat issues?
I would probably have to get a little more creative if the sinks are on the sides of the amp, maybe a fan or 2 would work.
I also saw that you said this was going to be your daily driver as well... are you planning on upgrading the electrical system/alternator to deal with the extra draw from the amps or do you think the stock system will be enough?
My fingers are crossed for that lol
Sorry for all the questions. I'm trying to get an idea of things that need to be done and I could use all the help I can get. The way I look at it, if I don't ask, I won't get an answer.
No problem at all
#107
10-08-2009, 04:07 PM
At the moment I don't have any midbass drivers and am highly considering putting the mids that came with my Kappa Perfect set in the doors and the tweeters on the A-pillars/kickpods/dashboard (in order of suggestion from Harman).
The woofers have a frequency respone that drops down to 75Hz. Since you are using the Image Dynamics sub and I'm sure you've auditioned it before, how well do you think it would blend into a system like mine without any dedicated midbass drivers?
Also was the location you picked for your sub enclosure based on looks and space with the plan to EQ later or did you measure acoustics and all that good stuff do cut down on EQ?
My problem is that I'm on the fence between going competitive/technical or just being happy with my new car
... so I apologize if my questions seem like they're attempting to attain more information that I'm capable of understanding at the moment
The woofers have a frequency respone that drops down to 75Hz. Since you are using the Image Dynamics sub and I'm sure you've auditioned it before, how well do you think it would blend into a system like mine without any dedicated midbass drivers?
Also was the location you picked for your sub enclosure based on looks and space with the plan to EQ later or did you measure acoustics and all that good stuff do cut down on EQ?
My problem is that I'm on the fence between going competitive/technical or just being happy with my new car
... so I apologize if my questions seem like they're attempting to attain more information that I'm capable of understanding at the moment
#108
10-08-2009, 07:14 PM
..........
No problem at all man. I regularly go to DIYMA all the time:
DIY Mobile Audio
There's quite a bit of info there.
At the moment I don't have any midbass drivers and am highly considering putting the mids that came with my Kappa Perfect set in the doors and the tweeters on the A-pillars/kickpods/dashboard (in order of suggestion from Harman).
I would guess you'll get decent MB response if you seal up those doors as much as possible. I've used the Perfects in the past, and they do lack MB, but does well in the mid/upper feq IMO.
The woofers have a frequency respone that drops down to 75Hz. Since you are using the Image Dynamics sub and I'm sure you've auditioned it before, how well do you think it would blend into a system like mine without any dedicated midbass drivers?
I have used the ID subs in the past with very good results. If you use the ID (as well as many other subs) you'll probably have to cross it/them over higher if there is a lack of MB in the door speakers. You'll probably get good results, but if you have time delay, you'll likely get even better results. It will help compensate for the sub crossovered higher. The delay will help keep the bass focus up front (but may compromise bass output from the subs) Just a thought . I would venture to say its not a big deal for most people though.
Also was the location you picked for your sub enclosure based on looks and space with the plan to EQ later or did you measure acoustics and all that good stuff do cut down on EQ?
I picked the location purely out of space, or the lack of it. I did not use any complicated measurements and such to figure out where to place the sub. Im not a acoustic engineer, but I would bet most enclosures in the trunk of a Fit would give very good impact
My problem is that I'm on the fence between going competitive/technical or just being happy with my new car ... so I apologize if my questions seem like they're attempting to attain more information that I'm capable of understanding at the moment
I would guess you'll get decent MB response if you seal up those doors as much as possible. I've used the Perfects in the past, and they do lack MB, but does well in the mid/upper feq IMO.
The woofers have a frequency respone that drops down to 75Hz. Since you are using the Image Dynamics sub and I'm sure you've auditioned it before, how well do you think it would blend into a system like mine without any dedicated midbass drivers?
I have used the ID subs in the past with very good results. If you use the ID (as well as many other subs) you'll probably have to cross it/them over higher if there is a lack of MB in the door speakers. You'll probably get good results, but if you have time delay, you'll likely get even better results. It will help compensate for the sub crossovered higher. The delay will help keep the bass focus up front (but may compromise bass output from the subs) Just a thought
. I would venture to say its not a big deal for most people though. Also was the location you picked for your sub enclosure based on looks and space with the plan to EQ later or did you measure acoustics and all that good stuff do cut down on EQ?
I picked the location purely out of space, or the lack of it. I did not use any complicated measurements and such to figure out where to place the sub. Im not a acoustic engineer, but I would bet most enclosures in the trunk of a Fit would give very good impact
My problem is that I'm on the fence between going competitive/technical or just being happy with my new car
... so I apologize if my questions seem like they're attempting to attain more information that I'm capable of understanding at the moment DIY Mobile Audio
There's quite a bit of info there.
#110
11-17-2009, 09:04 PM
Heres a quick update.
I had to rush the install near the end because I wanted to complete at the regionals....in which I placed 2nd in my class So much for that impossible to stage correctly comment 
suede flocked apillars...
bad pictures of the PG MS amps....sorry
I settled on the Alpine 7996/H700 combo
I had to rush the install near the end because I wanted to complete at the regionals....in which I placed 2nd in my class
So much for that impossible to stage correctly comment suede flocked apillars...
bad pictures of the PG MS amps....sorry
I settled on the Alpine 7996/H700 combo
Last edited by circa40; 11-17-2009 at 09:14 PM.
#111
11-17-2009, 09:04 PM
Battery + fuse holders w/ custom 1/8" aluminum mounts
Relocated factory fuses (to get around the factory battery terminal fuses)
If im ever motivated to, I'll rebuild the amp rack as I had to rush it :blush:
Relocated factory fuses (to get around the factory battery terminal fuses)
If im ever motivated to, I'll rebuild the amp rack as I had to rush it :blush:
Last edited by circa40; 11-17-2009 at 09:15 PM.
#112
11-18-2009, 07:39 AM
It just goes to show you that there is never enough time to do it right the first time, but always enough time to do it over again.
If you got second, what had to be done to get first? Who beat you out?
If you got second, what had to be done to get first? Who beat you out?
#113
11-18-2009, 11:55 AM
wow, this thread is of epic proportion! Great work, my only suggestion is to lose the carpeted dash mat, really makes things look cluttered. 
#114
11-18-2009, 03:33 PM
I lost because there was a big flaw in the judging. Im not trying to make any excuses but there were 3 judges this year (due to the huge turnout), one for each class. It turned out that the judge that judged my car wasnt supposed to judge my class. Everyone in my class got judged by one judge and a judge in another class judged my car. Oh well, better luck next time. I got docked a lot for not having enough sub bass
Time to rebuild the trunk area and tune, tune, and re-tune
#115
01-21-2010, 09:51 PM
Awesome project circa40 and thanks for all the details, keep up the great work!
Your project brought back a lot of great memories I had from completing IASCA 15 years ago with my '92 Accord (which I won in pro class/251 - 600 watts category; setup was very different back then). Your original amps had a special place in my heart because I'm a big a/d/s fan (still using a/d/s in my home theater). I ran Nakamichi CD-7; RF EPX2 with E28 card; 325is front; L300e rear plus 4 RF audiophile 10s. Unfortunately digital cameras didn't exist back then so my album is somewhere deep in the storage. I will see if they still exist somewhere in my storage & post them to share.
Best of lucks at shows, have a great season!
MissMyAccord - Hondas are for life!
Your project brought back a lot of great memories I had from completing IASCA 15 years ago with my '92 Accord (which I won in pro class/251 - 600 watts category; setup was very different back then). Your original amps had a special place in my heart because I'm a big a/d/s fan (still using a/d/s in my home theater). I ran Nakamichi CD-7; RF EPX2 with E28 card; 325is front; L300e rear plus 4 RF audiophile 10s. Unfortunately digital cameras didn't exist back then so my album is somewhere deep in the storage. I will see if they still exist somewhere in my storage & post them to share.
Best of lucks at shows, have a great season!
MissMyAccord - Hondas are for life!
#116
03-19-2010, 07:39 PM
Awesome project circa40 and thanks for all the details, keep up the great work!
Your project brought back a lot of great memories I had from completing IASCA 15 years ago with my '92 Accord (which I won in pro class/251 - 600 watts category; setup was very different back then). Your original amps had a special place in my heart because I'm a big a/d/s fan (still using a/d/s in my home theater). I ran Nakamichi CD-7; RF EPX2 with E28 card; 325is front; L300e rear plus 4 RF audiophile 10s. Unfortunately digital cameras didn't exist back then so my album is somewhere deep in the storage. I will see if they still exist somewhere in my storage & post them to share.
Best of lucks at shows, have a great season!
MissMyAccord - Hondas are for life!
Your project brought back a lot of great memories I had from completing IASCA 15 years ago with my '92 Accord (which I won in pro class/251 - 600 watts category; setup was very different back then). Your original amps had a special place in my heart because I'm a big a/d/s fan (still using a/d/s in my home theater). I ran Nakamichi CD-7; RF EPX2 with E28 card; 325is front; L300e rear plus 4 RF audiophile 10s. Unfortunately digital cameras didn't exist back then so my album is somewhere deep in the storage. I will see if they still exist somewhere in my storage & post them to share.
Best of lucks at shows, have a great season!
MissMyAccord - Hondas are for life!
Glad to hear from a fellow competitor. The RF Audiophiles were one of my first SQ subs back in 1996ish, sill some of my favorites. It looks like the new season is beginning this weekend and my car isnt anywhere close to hit the lanes.
Oh well, I may take this season off.
A little update:
I've completed most of the rebuild, although the trunk area basically looks the same but with different and more efficient amps. The Fit's charging and ELD system didnt like the added load and my Kinetik 800 does not like it when the stereo is being cranked with the engine off
I have some plans of using an external power supply with a hardwired quick release plug one day.The speaker placement is the same as before, although I went with different mids on the apillars. I'll add a few pics later.
I ordered some JDM goodness and it should arrive on Monday
. I'll let you guys know what it is and add a few pics when its actually in hands...dont want to jinx it 
#117
03-19-2010, 10:37 PM
Wow... another old competitor?
Last time I did a car for competition was back in '98 (still have the car and the system too!). Ended up with 6th place at world finals in 301-600 class. I then did install judging for a while, until it just consumed too much time!
My equipment list:
- Sony ES CDX-C910 (only high end head unit I could integrate factory steering wheel controls with at the time)
- 6.5" midbass is the Morel MW166
- 55mm softdome mid is the Morel MR55
- Dynaudio D260 1" soft dome tweeters (with 3" magnets!)
- Dynaudio X360 crossovers for the components
- Kicker ZR600 in stereo on the front set
- (2) JL 15W6 subs in a sealed enclosure, white laminate interior, neon, and 3/4" plexi rear for show
- Kicker ZR600 amp running in stereo on each 15W6 (3 ohm stereo load)
- (2) Audio Control 30-band 1/3 octave EQT's
Last time I did a car for competition was back in '98 (still have the car and the system too!). Ended up with 6th place at world finals in 301-600 class. I then did install judging for a while, until it just consumed too much time!
My equipment list:
- Sony ES CDX-C910 (only high end head unit I could integrate factory steering wheel controls with at the time)
- 6.5" midbass is the Morel MW166
- 55mm softdome mid is the Morel MR55
- Dynaudio D260 1" soft dome tweeters (with 3" magnets!)
- Dynaudio X360 crossovers for the components
- Kicker ZR600 in stereo on the front set
- (2) JL 15W6 subs in a sealed enclosure, white laminate interior, neon, and 3/4" plexi rear for show
- Kicker ZR600 amp running in stereo on each 15W6 (3 ohm stereo load)
- (2) Audio Control 30-band 1/3 octave EQT's
#118
03-25-2010, 01:25 PM
My new Pioneer just came in....
its not yet available in the US
Pioneer USA - DEX-P99RS - Reference Series CD Tuner with Digital DSP and USB Port with Digital Direct Signal Transmission
Review...
Pioneer DEX-P99RS : The Standard for Sound Quality Review - Source Units Reviews - Car Audio and Electronics
Install pics in a bit
its not yet available in the US
Pioneer USA - DEX-P99RS - Reference Series CD Tuner with Digital DSP and USB Port with Digital Direct Signal Transmission
Review...
Pioneer DEX-P99RS : The Standard for Sound Quality Review - Source Units Reviews - Car Audio and Electronics
Install pics in a bit
#119
03-26-2010, 10:52 AM
Here's a few of the pics....
I lost the front cup holders but gained Ipod/Iphone charging docks
Steering wheel remote:
I lost the front cup holders but gained Ipod/Iphone charging docks
Steering wheel remote:
Last edited by circa40; 03-26-2010 at 11:18 AM.
#120
03-26-2010, 05:37 PM
you could just buy steering wheel buttons from honda and wire it up, so it integrates with the steering wheel... and how did you get ur hands on a p99rs?! such a nice unit... more than i would need, but nice none the less.