I have no idea what you are talking about because I don't know what the words mean, so let's go to pictures.

Do you have the 09-12 Service Manual? If so, turn to page 9-3. On the right side, in Step 9, Letter A identifies the INTAKE MANIFOLD CHAMBER. Let me know if you can see that.

Thanks.

 

Pardon my OT-ness,

Performance camshaft for the 2nd gen?? I'd like one of those please.

 

Welp. Just finished adjusting.


Most of the exhausts were tight, had to adjust all but cylinder 2.

Upon re assembly.. broke a ***** valve cover bolt. Anything I can do at this point besides wait for the new bolt?
😫😫😫😫😫😫

 

Sorry, camshaft is in our first gen (GD). I've done valve adjustments on two GE's so I'm chiming in. Procedures are same for both.

CatCams makes camshafts for the GD, but none for the GE that I'm aware of.

 

Darn...sorry! You could probably use the right length bolt and diameter washer to get it to work, but getting an OEM replacement is a sure thing. Call your local dealership. Maybe get lucky and they'll have one.

 

I may be misunderstanding something from the recent posts here, but as I see it, the tighter the adjustment, the further the valves open. Moving to the looser end then would be the heat risk. To be more specific, movin clockwise on the valve when adjusting would open em up more. The only clatter should come from actual looseness no? I'd then say an older engine would benefit from mid to loose in spec gap due to carbon build up creating potential for exhaust leakage getting at that galve guide bushing chingas, and later into the valve cover.

Intending only to learn, not advise.

Thanks for the heads up on removing the full intake assy. I slept on that trick.

 

For a lack of a better way to explain, I stole this from CarPros...

"If the valves are adjusted too tightly, they will be prevented from sitting firmly on the seats when closed. That will reduce how effectively heat is transferred from the valve face to the cylinder head and into the cooling system. That will result in burned valves and a severe loss of compression."

You are correct about tight valves not making noise. Loose valves make noise. Over enough time all 3 Fit's I take care of have had loose intake valves and tight exhaust valves. However, the exhaust tightens much sooner than the intake loosens.

 

Well..

Dunno what I did wrong other than break a cover bolt.

Started it up for a sec to see if the engine sounded better...and it sounds like a freaking machine gun now and rmps at idle surge.

I quadruple checked my measurements.. made sure everything was torqued properly.. i dont get it.

Wtf couldve gone wrong? Only thing I may have fd up was putting the hondabond on the cover or the cover gasket may not be seated good. Either way, engine is noisy as hell now. Gonna recheck everything in a little bit..

 

Surging is often a vacuum leak. As for the noise, if the valves are adjusted correctly, check the spark plugs to make sure they are seated and tight.

Basically go over everything including electrical connectors.

Good luck!

 

Hmm...

Just got down to the valve cover. The broken bolt head is still on, and cover looks secure. Gonna have to wait to inspect further because its about to rain. Im thinking I should go ahead and change the plugs even though I just did. I know theyre seated right.. torqued to 20.

I got the spectra premium coils last week also. But I didn't have any surging issues before doing this. Gonna put some grease on both coils and plugs, recheck everything inside the cover, and hopefully all is better.

Maybe I didnt tighten a locknut down or something. Will update later when I can look inside.

 

Dang, if anyone ever happens to need a valve cover bolt.. hondaparts has them for a couple bucks a pip.

The shipping is where they getcha though.. just paid 18 dollars for two bolts.

😶

 

Ouch. Thanks for the info on the valves, theres always something to overlook.. the exhaust has a tendency to get tight, huh? I didnt expect something like that. I'll leave it close to the tighter tolerance for now, cuz screw that. One thing I've noticed since the job though is that the car seems a little more lively. The tiniest bit, but nonetheless. When I get around 120k I'll probably pull the head anyways. While you're here, any thoughts on interference type grinds for valves vs. Lapping?

I think you've got all the advice you need from GAFIT. There were a few hoses to play with on that job and I'd wager if anything was overlooked it'd be something small like that. Dont worry too much, sir

 

Thanks for all the help guys.

Upon further examination of my spark plugs, they were all over gapped to about 0.50. Adjusted all of them to 0.44.
Still haven't open the cover yet, waiting for the rain to pass by.

 

All right guys,

Just finished up the 2nd time. ALL of my valves were too loose. Hoping thats what was making my car sound like a metal clunker. Tightened them all to spec and crossing fingers.

Gonna start the car in a few hours.. hope it runs smoothly. 😅

 

Thanks for the update Chuck. These "fail" stories are very helpful so once you get everything sorted kindly let us know what happened and some traps for novices.

 

YES!

She sounds amazing. The problem I had was the actual adjustmente themselves. Advice to first timers: DONT RUSH.

If you have never used feeler gauges before, it will take some time getting used to. After my first go at it, all of my valves oh, yes all of them, were loose.

I made the mistake of only measuring what the maximum spec would allow for, (.006-.008 for intake and 0.011-0.011 for exhaust) but this time around measured from .004 to .009 for intake, and .010-.012 for exhaust.

I had to quadruple check my work in firing order, it took me over all about 2 and 1/2 hours of straight up measuring just to get a feel for the feeler gauges. After about an hour and 45 minutes I finally understood the angle and what I was feeling for.

Results this time around: SUCCESS!

Time to get baked.